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RightClick RF Remote users: Some questions

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  • RightClick RF Remote users: Some questions

    Ordered a RightClick KE851HC radio frequency remote for my UrS4 avant with central locking but no remote or immobilizer. http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info...oducts_id=1152 Ordered May 6th, arrived today. Now I have some questions:

    1. Where is the best mounting location in a C4? I was going to go for under the rear seat because of the proximity to the OE Audi Central Locking Control Module and the battery for power.

    2. The aerial wire coming out of the RightClick black box is only about 8 inches long. I was going to run it up the back of the avant rear seat but would have to extend the wire to do that. If it is just a stranded wire, no problem but if it is coax or something, that would be difficult.

    3. If you have a RightClick system, did you install the blue ARMED LED?

    4. Did you bother with the immobilizer function?

    Hopefully that will be it for questions.
    RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
    94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

  • #2
    I had one of these kits in a 80 avant.
    Never used imobiliser or led.
    Located it under the dash and wired switch in to door wiring/ fuse box for 12v+
    Range was good with antenna as is.

    Cheers

    Steve

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    • #3
      I switched the blue LED for the OE red alarm one in the console, fitted it under the right footrest next to the throttle pedal, and was able to use the wires that the OE alarm had used to trigger the central locking, very handy The wires you want to trigger are from the drivers door, easiest way to find these, is err... at the drivers door

      Any old immobiliser relay can be used, they aren't specific, just chop the starter wire at the ignition switch and make your connections.

      The aerial is very likely just normal wire, coax would only shield the signal making it not work as an aerial... No need to extend, in fact, don't, get it the wrong length and you will lose a good chunk of reception. Just fit it as it is, no need to be too precious about the location of it, it will get through easily enough, and with a good battery from a good distance away too.

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      • #4
        1. i putted the RC control unit under the rear seat.
        2.i didn't mods aerial wire just leave it there under the rear seat.
        3.no.
        4.my RC was early version w/o immo output and also i'm running on VEMS,immobilizer was disabled.

        Dave you just don't need to mods the aerial wire. it ain't problem about the range.
        one of a few I5 from Asia.

        Comment


        • #5
          I have one in my 80tdi. Fitted under the dash as all connections are there for indicators etc. I didn't use the blue LED but fitted a red one instead, this went into a switch blank on the centre console. Didn't bother with the immo but its not a high value car, if I had wanted to protect further I would have done. Like others have said the aerial wire is fine and I find the range very good.

          One thing to note is this:

          I did a bit of research before fitting and found 2 guides almost identical, however the wiring on my car was different. During installation I actually found remains of one that had been fitted before, this set alarm bells ringing. To cut a long story short it was clear that whoever had fitted one before had done so following the same instructions I found, this did not work for them or me. Consequently what was supposed to be a 2hr job turned into about 5 hours as I had to figure out what was going on and re-wire it all.

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          • #6
            From my experience with 3 Right Click units I'd agree with others experience.

            Don't change the aerial lead, range is good as it is even if you mount the unit in a footwell. On my first unit I fitted it up behind the C post trim (it's pretty small) to get the best range but it wasn't necessary.

            If your car has a factory alarm there's no need for the blue indicator LED as the factory alarm will arm as normal when you lock the doors and the red LED behind the hazard switch will continue as factory. If you haven't got the factory alarm then as others have said you can change the blue LED for any colour you like and choose where you mount it.

            Same for the immobilser function, I didn't use it as I have the factory immobiliser which is worked by the chip in the key. The Right Click unit doesn't care if you don't connect the LED and immobiliser wires and it's less to wire up and go wrong.

            My reason for using Right Click is that as well as a reputation for reliability you get a nice flip key remote which has space for the immobiliser chip if you need it and here in the UK at least they'll send you blank keys for your car which you can get cut locally.

            John

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks everybody for your answers.

              One additional question: I currently have central locking (no remote, no alarm) and it will close the windows and sunroof if I hold the key in the closed position in the door.

              1. Will I still be able to keep that function when I install the RightClick remote/alarm?

              2. If so, will it require installing an additional relay or diode?

              (Sorry but I have zero experience with this and my central locking is unique in the NAmerican C4 UrS world).

              RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
              94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

              Comment


              • #8
                The RightClick mimics what you do with a door key, it produces a pulse of 0.5 seconds or 2 seconds (you choose which of those two time durations with a DIP switch on the box) which to the factory alarm/door lock system is the same as though you've turned and held the key in the lock for 0.5 or 2 seconds.

                On our cars either times are long enough to trick the factory system into unlock/locking the doors. On your car with the total closure module I suspect 2 seconds may not be long enough to activate the total closure mode, try holding the key for 2 seconds and see if it's long enough to operate the total closure mode. If it does you'll be alright once you fit the RightClick set to 2 seconds.

                If 2 seconds isn't long enough, I'd talk to the RightClick folks and see if they have a total closure add-on module.

                No extra relay or diodes are going to help you here.

                Another possibility is that the RightClick also has a boot/trunk release output. It may be possible to feed that output to your existing total closure module and use the boot release button on the RightClick to activate total closure but that depends on your existing total closure module.

                John

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by johne View Post
                  If 2 seconds isn't long enough, I'd talk to the RightClick folks and see if they have a total closure add-on module. John
                  Thanks John. Seems that they (Rightclick) do have an window module (the good news). Very pricy compared to the remote cost (plus the extra shipping - slaps forehead)

                  http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info...roducts_id=279

                  RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                  94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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