Looking for 2 plug Central Locking Pump Wiring Diagrams

[sjw185]

Sorry I modified that drawing on the wrong switch this is the correct one

[sjw185]

http://www.discotrek.co.uk/pictures/Right%20CLick/Universal_Fitting_All_Vehicles.pdf

This site explains it better than me, your 6 wires are 2 changeover contacts that you configure to the type of lock system you have.

[bluequattro]

Pump

I have a 4A0 862 257 C from a lhd urs4

[mdz]

Identified how? By comparing them to the diagram that I am missing?

No. Each wire color has its own meaning and it doesn't change between same model same year cars.

[UrS4boy]

No. Each wire color has its own meaning and it doesn't change between same model same year cars.

Thanks for your help.

[UrS4boy]

This site explains it better than me, your 6 wires are 2 changeover contacts that you configure to the type of lock system you have.

Thanks for the link. Looks like answer is in there somewhere.

[UrS4boy]

I have a 4A0 862 257 C from a lhd urs4

That would be the same as the one that I have. I just don't have the wiring diagram for the T12 connector on the 257C.

Checked my "stash" and I have two three plug 257Ds and one three plug 257G. Not sure where I got the 257G (I cannibalized a couple of C4 100s but not three).

[UrS4boy]

Sorry I modified that drawing on the wrong switch this is the correct one

Thanks. Still working from a 3 plug diagram though. I won't cut any wires unless:

a) I am sure that they are correct for a 2 plug locking pump
b) I am sure that there is a way to keep the auto closer function for the windows and sunroof with the key in the door lock turned and held in lock until they are all closed. Might involve a diode or two.

[sjw185]

Thanks. Still working from a 3 plug diagram though. I won't cut any wires unless:

a) I am sure that they are correct for a 2 plug locking pump
b) I am sure that there is a way to keep the auto closer function for the windows and sunroof with the key in the door lock turned and held in lock until they are all closed. Might involve a diode or two.

Ok, check this out.

When you turn your key in the lock you can lock and unlock your car.
The pump gets this signal from one wire.
There is another contact on the switch when you move it to the next stage it closes the windows this is also one wire.
The black box is doing the same but with a radio signal
I think you are getting hung up on the wiring at the vac pump when it does not matter if it has 2 wires or 10wires it still gets it signal from the switch in the drivers door.
check out my crude drawing

Looks like Grn/Blue is the open close signal and red/blk wire is window close on the audi 80 switch, if you took a door card off you could check colours and test with a meter.
I've also tested cables before cutting with a needle so not to damage cables.

cheers

Steve

[UrS4boy]

Ok, check this out. When you turn your key in the lock you can lock and unlock your car. The pump gets this signal from one wire.
There is another contact on the switch when you move it to the next stage it closes the windows this is also one wire. The black box is doing the same but with a radio signal. I think you are getting hung up on the wiring at the vac pump when it does not matter if it has 2 wires or 10wires it still gets it signal from the switch in the drivers door. check out my crude drawing. Looks like Grn/Blue is the open close signal and red/blk wire is window close on the audi 80 switch, if you took a door card off you could check colours and test with a meter. I've also tested cables before cutting with a needle so not to damage cables. cheers. Steve

Steve (and others): Really appreciate the help that you are giving me here. Between your help and my previous documentation of a three plug central locking pump, I think that I am quite sure which wires need to be involved.

I have been using the diagram below as a guide. Between that and the Bentley manual Vol. 3 (with the C4 North American) wiring diagrams, I am very close. Just one German spec. wire that I can not identify.

The door lock switches (inside the door) are both on pins T12b/3 and T12b/4, Brown/green and Brown/grey wiring (as per my table, attached, below). Obviously one wire is for Unlock, the other for Lock. But I don't know which is which. (Note: the diagram is for the more complicated 3 plug control module and that it does not show anything for T12b/7, T12b/8 and T12b/9. I can confirm that -7 and -9 are linked together by a loop of red factory wire. I am lacking documentation for T12b/8 on a German spec car).



Based on the wiring of the T12b for a 3 plug control module and comparing that to the 2 plug T12b in the German spec V8 avant, I am only missing the purpose of one wire (it exists in the German spec. car but not in the North American cars, at least not the sedans). The Yellow/blue stripe wire in T12b/8. No clue. Might not need to care if all I really need is T12b/3 and T12b/4.



No to match that to the correct RightClick diagram.

[UrS4boy]

A few updates before I head off for bed:

This is the right diagram to show the F121 and F122 door lock switches and their connections on the lock and unlock side of T12b/3 and T12b/4.



I found this diagram that was apparently used previously for successful installation of a similar model of RightClick Remote on a 3 plug control pump. The relay and connection to the T12b/5 was for the 3 plug control plug that had one key turn to open the door with the key in it and a second key turn to open all the doors. My 257C opens ALL the doors (and hatch) with the single key turn so I think I don't need that.



And then there is this from the more recent RightClick instructions:



I still don't know what the yellow wire with the blue stripe in T12b/8 is for. Must be something.

[sjw185]

So the switch on the top left of the drawing is the one on the inside on the handle that can lock the doors and isolate the windows to stop the kids messing with them.
I was thinking that one was the master controlling the locks and window closing

Best way to check the wire is, open the grommet in the door shut and find the brown/grey cable.
Use a needle on the end of a multimeter to stab the cable and see if it goes to ground when the key is in the door turned to lock position.
Close the door latch with a screwdriver so you can operate locking smoothly. Just remember to pull the door handle to unlatch the catch before you try and close the door.
once you have found the lock wire you can open the window and try a close with the key.
See if you get a ground signal during window closing.
If all good you should test the window raise output (red wire) on the new controller to see if its a ground signal.
This could also be connected to the brown/grey wire to send a 20sec ground signal to the controller to tell it to shut the windows?
you can then choose to solder the wires in the door shut and fit unit under the dash. or go looking for lock and unlock wires at the controller.

Cheers

Steve

[UrS4boy]

So the switch on the top left of the drawing is the one on the inside on the handle that can lock the doors and isolate the windows to stop the kids messing with them. I was thinking that one was the master controlling the locks and window closing....[good technical stuff] ....Steve

Thanks for the modified drawing and the hints Steve. I think that is going to be it. Not sure about the 20 second hold. I will be happy if I can just still stick the key in the door lock and hold it in the lock position until the sunroof and all windows are closed.

The switch in the top left of the schematic you modded (thanks) is the lock switch located in the bezel that holds the chrome interior door handle in a C4. My 93 UrS4 has that (3 plug controller). The 94 V8 avant S4 does not have it (2 plug controller). I have a spare bezel with chrome handle and switch with connector/pig tail but I think I will leave that for another time, if ever.

I think in the end, this will be the correct diagram to use (based on the one I posted with the extra, unneeded, relay and your diagram (thanks)).



Thanks to all.

[sjw185]

Thanks for the modified drawing and the hints Steve. I think that is going to be it. Not sure about the 20 second hold. I will be happy if I can just still stick the key in the door lock and hold it in the lock position until the sunroof and all windows are closed.

Thanks to all.

Worth a test when you turn the key you are just keeping lock signal on for longer according to the drawings so once central locking module sees all doors locked it must start closing windows.

Easy to test with needle after your have tested lock cable in door shut. just attach needle to ground and watch the door lock and hold it there are window should start to close?

[UrS4boy]

Just wired the RightClick up and tried it. Good news is the pump works like before with the key. Bad news is the remote did not work. I think the issue is the Scotch/Vampire taps that RightClick provided. They work on the wires that they provided but I am pretty sure that the taps didn't cut through the insulation on the very fine OE Audi wires, so no contact with the locking pump. Have to rethink how connect to those very fine wires. Not much slack to work with.