hello all,
Research suggests that by the time an ignition switch gets past its 20th birthday it is a likely culprit for all sorts of odd electrical gremlins. A couple of months ago my 26 year old CQ20v had a <very> momentary engine cut out on the way to work and to be honest it was so brief, had I not noticed the ABS light come on, i would have thought the jolt it was a bump in the road as it passed so quickly. Last week hard acceleration caused a slightly longer cut out but it bump started itself before i had the time to switch off and on again. Today however was a whole different kettle of fish...
Accelerate onto M69 and there was a jolt, ABS light on, restarted on the key and carry on. No problems for next 10 miles then leaving the other end of the M69 onto the A46 the car dies, rev counter to zero, speedo needle up and down as though being switched on and off but all the dash lights on. Pull onto hard shoulder and restart with no problems. A little bit further down the A46 and accelerating away from a roundabout = total cut out and coast into a petrol station.
No dashboard lights this time and no restart.
An hour or so passed waiting for the AA and moments before the patrol turned up i heard a 'click' from a relay under the dash, ignition on and engine started perfectly.
Definitely some weirdness going on here and I'm torn between it being the ignition switch or the aftermarket immobilizer as with key on the RUN position I noticed that ALL electrical functions such as lights, wipers, fan etc worked but just no supply to fuel pump or coil which is what the IM interrupts when working but with but with no LED showing it looked to all intents and purposes like it should have been deactivated. The click actually made the immobilizer LED come back on, it deactivated OK and from there the restart.
I suspect that the ignition switch may supply power to the IM but without power (presumably a fail safe/secure mode) I wasn't able to turn it off and get going again.
Switch part number 4A0 905 849 B seems to be the switch for all the coupes. How much are people currently paying for genuine Audi switches?
I'll start with the switch as they don't last forever and see how it goes!
Research suggests that by the time an ignition switch gets past its 20th birthday it is a likely culprit for all sorts of odd electrical gremlins. A couple of months ago my 26 year old CQ20v had a <very> momentary engine cut out on the way to work and to be honest it was so brief, had I not noticed the ABS light come on, i would have thought the jolt it was a bump in the road as it passed so quickly. Last week hard acceleration caused a slightly longer cut out but it bump started itself before i had the time to switch off and on again. Today however was a whole different kettle of fish...
Accelerate onto M69 and there was a jolt, ABS light on, restarted on the key and carry on. No problems for next 10 miles then leaving the other end of the M69 onto the A46 the car dies, rev counter to zero, speedo needle up and down as though being switched on and off but all the dash lights on. Pull onto hard shoulder and restart with no problems. A little bit further down the A46 and accelerating away from a roundabout = total cut out and coast into a petrol station.
No dashboard lights this time and no restart.
An hour or so passed waiting for the AA and moments before the patrol turned up i heard a 'click' from a relay under the dash, ignition on and engine started perfectly.
Definitely some weirdness going on here and I'm torn between it being the ignition switch or the aftermarket immobilizer as with key on the RUN position I noticed that ALL electrical functions such as lights, wipers, fan etc worked but just no supply to fuel pump or coil which is what the IM interrupts when working but with but with no LED showing it looked to all intents and purposes like it should have been deactivated. The click actually made the immobilizer LED come back on, it deactivated OK and from there the restart.
I suspect that the ignition switch may supply power to the IM but without power (presumably a fail safe/secure mode) I wasn't able to turn it off and get going again.
Switch part number 4A0 905 849 B seems to be the switch for all the coupes. How much are people currently paying for genuine Audi switches?
I'll start with the switch as they don't last forever and see how it goes!
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