need some help for 324 control module..

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  • Tridac
    S2Forum Fanatic
    • Mar 2012
    • 88
    • Home: United Kingdom Current: England

    #31
    Error 404

    Assuming the original design was done right, the real question is: Why the parts are burnt out now and what caused it ?. Don't have a schematic handy, but assume the module drives a relay to switch the pump supply ?. If so, might be worth checking or replacing the relay, otherwise the intermittent short could happen again. If not, might be worth adding a relay, to minimise stress on the module...

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    • ziopinulo
      S2Forum Enthusiast
      • Oct 2014
      • 108
      • Country: Italy

      #32
      Originally posted by Tridac
      Assuming the original design was done right, the real question is: Why the parts are burnt out now and what caused it ?. Don't have a schematic handy, but assume the module drives a relay to switch the pump supply ?. If so, might be worth checking or replacing the relay, otherwise the intermittent short could happen again. If not, might be worth adding a relay, to minimise stress on the module...
      the module is connected directly to the pump, is a relay it self but you can add another in series. it may be an idea to safeguard it, but i think that if all is in good condition the module work well

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      • UrS4boy
        S2Forum Obsessed
        • Feb 2006
        • 11859
        • Country: Canada

        #33
        Originally posted by ziopinulo
        the module is connected directly to the pump, is a relay it self but you can add another in series. it may be an idea to safeguard it, but i think that if all is in good condition the module work well
        I have created the diagram below for the S2s and RS2s based on S2Central's S2 wiring pdf . In doing so, I discovered two things:

        1. The C4 UrS J69 (214) fan relay is called a J138 on the S2.
        2. There is a resistor (N47) in series with the fan in Stage 1 that my C4 UrS diagram did not show.

        As a result, if a S2 after-run fan is not coming on but the V51 After-run pump is coming on, you need to check the S5 fuse, the S20 fuse, and the N47.



        After-run pump System info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21503.phtml

        RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
        94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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        • Tridac
          S2Forum Fanatic
          • Mar 2012
          • 88
          • Home: United Kingdom Current: England

          #34
          Had I taken the trouble to look upthread, rather than diving in, I would have realised that :-). One posibility is that the pump startup current is excessive, due to bearing wear, or its clagged up with muck. From the photo, it's quite a small power transistor driving the pump, with little or no heat sinking, so the original design may have been a bit close to the edge anyway. Looks like there's enough room inside the module for a miniature relay, which would avoid loom changes. May have a go at this soon, then report back with photos...

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          • ziopinulo
            S2Forum Enthusiast
            • Oct 2014
            • 108
            • Country: Italy

            #35
            Originally posted by Tridac
            Had I taken the trouble to look upthread, rather than diving in, I would have realised that :-). One posibility is that the pump startup current is excessive, due to bearing wear, or its clagged up with muck. From the photo, it's quite a small power transistor driving the pump, with little or no heat sinking, so the original design may have been a bit close to the edge anyway. Looks like there's enough room inside the module for a miniature relay, which would avoid loom changes. May have a go at this soon, then report back with photos...
            the small power transistor dont have heat sinking in fact..
            await your news!

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            • Tridac
              S2Forum Fanatic
              • Mar 2012
              • 88
              • Home: United Kingdom Current: England

              #36
              Bd435

              Just pulled the data sheet for the transistor and it's only a piddly little 4 amp device and not vey high gain at that, especially at low temperatures. If you are going to replace it, pick a 10 or 15amp device, perhaps even a darlington, to make sure it is always fully turned on. Something like a Texas TIPxx series, which has a slightly larger outline and a full metal tab to spread the heat, or to mount a heatsink.

              A relay would still be best though, as it provides electrical isolation between the pump motor and the rest of the circuit...

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