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Originally posted by LPHUK2002 If it turns out my turbo is fooked, anyone any idea what I should expect to pay for a recon/exchange K24?
Are the VAGPART prices for a new unit, 'cause I see the RS2 one is cheaper than the S2!!
Cheers
Leigh
Leigh, if yours is fooked (as you say, I'd rather say f*cked ), don't bother getting a new POS original K24, just get an RS2, you'll be much happier with it, even if you don't go with the full conversion, i.e. injectors, exhaust manifold and intercooler, and home fries from Belgium are readily available for 330-340 HP on an RS2 turbo/stock everything else.
Cheers,
Mihnea
'98 Silver Grey 2.7T S4, dual 2.75" turbo back exhaust with no cats, FMIC, BIG injectors, 10 Bar motorsport fuel pump, modded RS4 turbos, tubular exhaust manifolds, custom intakes, RS4 MAF, Bilstein PSS9, H&R ARBs, 19" BBS CH, custom remap, 511 BHP/505ft-lbs
Does the smoke sound like the turbo and could a decat and lack of back pressure cause this?
Would the RS2 unit not cause more lag? I don't want lag!!!
I presume its a straight bolt on but would need different chips than the standard ABY as airflow will be higher?
I posted a reply on the other thread - looks like you managed to diagnos ethe problem on your own - 10/10
Here's a quote from AET Turbos I got last March - it was the RS2 turbo to be fixed - I think it cost me £250+VAT:
Dear Mr Bennett
Thank you for contacting AET.
Price for overhaul is £100-£300 + VAT depending on the damage to the turbo.
We can arrange a free collection and quote. Repair time is 2-3 days.
A replacement turbo is £600 + VAT.
Please call me on 01924 894171 to discuss.
Best regards
Andy Taylor
AET Turbos
Tel: +44 1924 894171
Fax: +44 1924 890394 andy@aet-turbos.co.uk
It's really strange guys because I'd rather say it's the valve stem seals rather than the turbo, my turbo was dead before I removed it and it used to blow huge blue clouds on every startup, but never in any other conditions....
An RS2 turbo will have slightly more lag but the benefits in torque and HP are so high that you'll soon forget about the extra lag.
Anyway, if you really HATE lag, I'm now working on a special design hybrid turbo (that will be my own mix so to speak) that will use a small K26 turbine that's actually only slightly bigger than the K24 turbine, along with an RS2 compressor, for increased flow and higher boost capabilities, maximum HP should be around 340 HP but with K24-esque spool up and lag (or lack thereof)
Stay tuned, same time, same channel
Mihnea
'98 Silver Grey 2.7T S4, dual 2.75" turbo back exhaust with no cats, FMIC, BIG injectors, 10 Bar motorsport fuel pump, modded RS4 turbos, tubular exhaust manifolds, custom intakes, RS4 MAF, Bilstein PSS9, H&R ARBs, 19" BBS CH, custom remap, 511 BHP/505ft-lbs
Good to see QS are once agian keeping to cost of running and S2 nice and high!!
Anyone know why the turbo has gone after 55k? Could it be that the CATs were going and this caused some damage which is now apparent wih the drop in back pressure?
I have a good friend who has just rebuilt and e-type and has taken the head of his Prelufde before now and I'm always willing to learn - how easy is turbo removal?
Can it be done easily once you have renoved the intake pipes ane other stuff out of the way? Also what parts do i need to replace it - gaskets, oil feed pipes bolts etc. Torque settings?
Leigh,
i had to take my turbo off last w/end as part of my head overhaul, in theory its not that hard but in practice it was a bit of a PITA, the plan was to leave turbo atattched to manifold disconnect exhaust from turbo and lift everything off as one, wastegate came off no probs but could only get to 3 of the bolts holding d/pipe on, is it just me or is this flippin nut near impossible to remove (the lowest one next to manifold) jeezz, just as all my spanners were about to get launched into next doors garden, decided to leave turbo on d/pipe and disconnect from manifold instead, but oh no what a suprise couldnt get last nut off due to d/pipe in the way, rrgghhh, lucily there was plenty of movement on the d/pipe so whilst pushing towards the wing the nut could just be removed, any joins ive split ill be renewing gaskets,at first this project seemed pretty daunting but its been fairly easy so far and ive learned quite a bit, with the head off its revealed a few water pipes that have seen better days could of been costly if one split and what ive saved on labour charges i can spend o some mods, hence rs2 turbo awaiting fitment and some other bits n bobs.
better go ask for my spanners back!
AET says that is sounds like the turbo. They have no idea what the other grey smoke was. Without seeing it they say that it could be a bilud up of carbon, some of which has dislodged and damaged the seals.
They quoted between £150-300 + VAT for a rebuild (the latter price basically being a exchange unit) and £315 + VAT for a straight exchange.
They want to see the old one to try and work out what the problem has been and see if it points to anything else and will even arrange for the unit to be picked up for free ! Seem like a good bunch to me.
Martin - Thanks for the tips on removal. What happens when you remove all the pipes (oil and water)? Do I need to drain all this before I remove the unit?
I'm away on holiday next week so will do it when I get back.
Thanks for the info so far chaps I don't want to remove the exhaust manifold if I can help it so my plan will be:
Remove MAF and top of air box
Remove bottom of air box (to give space)?
Remove large intake pipe (up side of engine) to give space
Remove cold air feed pipe (from compressor side)
Do I have to remove the waste gate or can I get away with just removing the ribbed metal pipe (again for space)?
Remove (unbolt) the two pipes going to the top of the turbo unit
Unbolt exhuast side of turbo
just take the 4 nuts holding the w/g onto manifild off theyre easy to get at then the 3 bolts holding the springy section to the downpipe and remove as one, but theres still literally no room to remove that nut i was on about.
skin removal time!!
forgot to say, the bolts holding the oil return on (underside of turbo) were virtually rusted away so i left the return pipe bolted to the unit and undid from the sump, its below the oil level which i forgot about thus emptied contents of sump over drive...doh
well it was easier for me to get to the underside of turbo as i had the head and bumper off, its just 2x m5 bolts (4mm allen key) holding oil return on, water pipe return is the same as the water feed pipe, you may not need to remove h/lamp, just the 2 joins (to manifold and to d/pipe) that hold turbo on.
HTH
martin
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