S2 Engine Oil

[Jay]

Hmmm. I am now running Mobil 1 (5W50) and today the oil pressure at idle was around 1 bar when hot!!!!! Is this the oil, or could that indicate another fault???? And where the hell do you fit an oil cooler?
Cheers guys
Karl

Sounds like crank bearing wear to me! done many miles??

Get long hoses made and mount the cooler in front of the rad- but leave a gap between (e.g mount the cooler as far forward as pos)

Lads find yourself a local hydraulic specialist (theres one local to me called Friction Hydraulics in Telford), take your old hoses to them with the new cooler and tell them how long to make them- £40 should see you right. dont go to big with the cooler Ive got a 19 row serc's cooler and thats plent big enough.

DONT FIT TO A WORN ENGINE- THE EXTRA OIL FLOW PATH WILL LOWER THE PRESSURE!!

Jay

[karlblues2]

Sounds like crank bearing wear to me! done many miles??

Jay

Gulp!! No, not really, 141000km (90000 miles)
Anything else possible (cheaper???????)

[Jay]

Gulp!! No, not really, 141000km (90000 miles)
Anything else possible (cheaper???????)

Sorry mate,

its is unusual at that mileage (150000+ miles is the norm for rebuild time)

The only other thing is the oil pump but if thats worn your bearings will be too!!!

Get the pressure checked with a external gauge ( the standard is not always that accurate!)

Try changing the oil and filter, remove and clean the oil pressure relief valve (front OS corner of engine with the temp sender in it)- get the engine hot- WEAR GLOVES- then remove it will be easyer, use wheel cleaning acid to remove varnise on all parts -WEAR GOGGLES AND GLOVES

If that doesnt help find a quiet corner and cry then gather yourself and save up for a rebuild and give the right foot a rest in the mean time.

As a bog you could drop the sump and replace the big end bearings and as many mains as you can get to, will gain some time?!


Jay

[karlblues2]

Sorry mate,

its is unusual at that mileage (150000+ miles is the norm for rebuild time)

The only other thing is the oil pump but if thats worn your bearings will be too!!!

Get the pressure checked with a external gauge ( the standard is not always that accurate!)

Try changing the oil and filter, remove and clean the oil pressure relief valve (front OS corner of engine with the temp sender in it)- get the engine hot- WEAR GLOVES- then remove it will be easyer, use wheel cleaning acid to remove varnise on all parts -WEAR GOGGLES AND GLOVES

If that doesnt help find a quiet corner and cry then gather yourself and save up for a rebuild and give the right foot a rest in the mean time.

As a bog you could drop the sump and replace the big end bearings and as many mains as you can get to, will gain some time?!


Jay

Thanks Jay
I'm off to find a corner to cry in anyway...................

[Jay]

Thanks Jay
I'm off to find a corner to cry in anyway...................

P.s

if the pressure check reveals 1.5 bar aprox (hot- oil temp 80+ *C) then dont worry for now, just monitor your pressure and level and change that oil often (try castol/millers 10w 60 or equivalent you can get- you want the high number!)

Jay

[Jay]

I sell Millers CFS 10W60. This is available in 5 litre tubs unlike Castrol RS so it works out a lot cheaper. It is a motorsport oil and very suitable for our highly stressed engines. It is designed for a constant 120C and tolerates 150C intermittently. I have no evidence to prove that Castrol RS is any better than the Millers Oil Jay: can you produce lab reports to substantiate that "Castrol RS 10w 60 is the best stuff out there"? I studied tribology and also attended courses and seminars on tribology when I was a Spacecraft Mechanisms Designer...reports on engineering and tribology always interest me.

Millers have been designing and manufacturing lubricants for a heck of a long time and their products are of a very high standard. Their engine oil range includes all applications from Classic cars to special mineral oils for Drag Racing Engines for Top Methanol Dragsters. Their range also covers a massive range of automotive and industrial products.

I change my oil every 5,000 to 6,000 miles and have been using Millers 10W60 for a long time. It is superb stuff. My engine has covered over 153,000 miles, is hammered every day: I get 5bar oil pressure at cold idle, 2bar when hot at idle and the needle sits at 5bar when hot and driving. I used to use Synta Gold until I 'saw the light'. It is not suited to our engines at all and I was having some serious temperature and pressure issues using it.

I was so impressed with Millers products that I approached them to become an agent selling their products. They are extremely helpful and have professional on hand to prescribe specific lubricant for all applications.

I was asked by a student looking at this thread on oil, he wanted to know what Tirbology means and thought others on here might want to know-
'the study of friction' from memory of my uni days (stangely it not in the students dictionary though!)

Jay

[dan_b]

So, if the balance of opinion is that a 10/60 oil is, in general, better for our cars with their stressed hot turbos, drivers who thrash them to high heaven, nasty unburnt fuel scavenging issues and general old design and an awful lot of miles, is there anything that could separate the Castrol RS10/60 from the Millers CFS10/60, other than the fact that you can't get the Castrol in a 5litre bottle?!

I've changed my oil twice this year, having driven about 8,000 miles so far. First oil change was in February, with Synta Gold 10/40, then again in May after the Bedford Track day when it took a real pounding and I changed to Castrol 10/60.

My next question then is what about these engine flush oils? Should we go anywhere near them when doing an oil change? Do they do good, or harm?

My final question is the evil spectre of "Slik 50" and those other "friction-reducers". To me these instinctively feel wrong and I wouldn't put them in my S2 if you paid me, but a lot of people do buy the stuff. Are they mad, or is there something in it?

[Fat Audi 80]

Yes,

Comments on engine flush would be good. I used Wynns engine flush in my '80 sport all the time and was happy with the results.


What about the S2 with its turbo etc???

Cheers,

Steve.

[Greg_S]

It should be fine, if it says on the tin it is suitable for turbo engines. Afterall the engine isnt all that different from alot of other engines.

Greg

[Doug_RS2]

I've never used a flush - how long do you run the car on it? do you just pump it round on the starter - without the car firing? Is it just at idle?

I'll be switching from RS to Millers beginning of next week - I'll report back on what I think the differences - if any.

[PeteRR]

I always use a flush (usually Valvoline) before an oil change.
I would never use Slick 50 or similar in something like the Audi, it worked well in an old Series 3 Land-Rover I had though, which is the kind of car its suited to, i.e. pre-historic!

[PeteRR]

I've never used a flush - how long do you run the car on it? do you just pump it round on the starter - without the car firing? Is it just at idle?

I'll be switching from RS to Millers beginning of next week - I'll report back on what I think the differences - if any.

Depends on the type of flush. I tend to use one that you just add to the old oil after warming the engine up and running at idle for 5-10 mins before draining. They all tend to vary, but usually give directions on the bottle.

I doubt if you will actually notice any difference between the Millers and RS, except to your pocket of course!

[Jamo]

The jury is out on oil flushing and turbo cars amongst my peers, it's a catch 22 one.

I know that i've never used one on any turbo car i've had incase you flush anything into the turbo causing damage. The same goes for a few of my other mates.

But there's no proof to this, it's more "fear" factor.

[Lee]

Many additive firms have had law suits against them in the US for false or misleading advertising and unsubstantiated claims. I will dig out some information I have on the subject when I get 5 minutes.

Never used a flush myself although was reading about one the other night. Directions as Pete just mentioned. Is it worth using a flush? With a regular oil change, oil keeps coming out pretty clean anyway so I guess there is little cross contamination between old and new.

[Fat Audi 80]

I was convinced you could SEE a lot more crap coming out in the old oil when the flush is added to it. The worrying thing is says "do not drive with it in" on the tin, and of course I never would, but what about when the car is just idling with it in????

I am far too worried about my S2 engine to just throw it in, but if others are happy I may give it a whirl...

Its pros and cons I guess...