Distributor Replacement Help Please Urgent

[220bhp]

Please can anyone help. I have a new distributor for my s2 coupe and I need to know the way to go about it,ie the best way to access the 10mm nut is it to remove the fuel rail ,or IM.Whats involved and most important what not to do I have another post running at the moment [high Idel slight misfire] that disscribes my running problems, but I think that one has had its day, so I des'peratley tried another one.Please could you wonderful ,helpful magnif'icent,most knowlegable,non BMW driving s2 forum members help me before I lose the faith
Cheers Lou

[s2dude]

Please can anyone help. I have a new distributor for my s2 coupe and I need to know the way to go about it,ie the best way to access the 10mm nut is it to remove the fuel rail ,or IM.Whats involved and most important what not to do I have another post running at the moment [high Idel slight misfire] that disscribes my running problems, but I think that one has had its day, so I des'peratley tried another one.Please could you wonderful ,helpful magnif'icent,most knowlegable,non BMW driving s2 forum members help me before I lose the faith
Cheers Lou

Lou

I used this great guide for removing mine to inspect the gear recently...

See attachment (obivously only do the removal part and the refitting part....not the gear replacement bit as you have a new dizzy!)

hth

[s2dude]

and this may help too

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=183356&postcount=7

I removed my IM and fuel rail to make easier access

[220bhp]

Brill'IAnt ,you guys are just brill'iant thank you so much, I will let you know how I get on if I ever return from under the bonnet, if not I'll leave the s2 to you in my will,problems an all.

Very Many Thanks. Lou

[Chris5044]

nice

[220bhp]

Well I managed to change the distributor, what a job, I think I done it just in time as there where a couple of cracks in the plastic gear and one or two little bits missing, also there was a few mm of play in it end to end. The car runs A little smoother, but it hasent cured the high idel and the rise and fall in the revs, at 1450 revs the revs rise and fall on there own,and the car idels at 1200.I have changed ISV,MFTS,MAF, some vacume hoses, changed thermostate, cleaned throttle body, and I am now going to change the TPS.The car runs hot at 100deg This was all posted in a previous thread [High idel slight misfire] I followed all the instructions given by all the helpful people that have replied, but just don't know what to do next.
I have ordered a set of boost hoses from Paul, in the hope that that helps a little.
If there is anyone with any ideas I would be very gratful
Many thanks LOU.

[newsh]

You could try changing the one way valve round the back of the cylinder head. And make sure your PCV system is not leaking. Have you checked the Diverter Valve?

[newsh]

Be really careful with the timing of the distributor, it has to be perfect! Turn the engine in the direction of rotation to line up the flywheel and cam marks then recheck the dizzy!!

[PeterS]

What Newsh said...

I replaced the dizzy on my 3b 200 wagon - the car started fine thereafter, but the ECU was reducing boost around 4-5k rpm.

After a discussion with Mihnea, I fine tuned the distributer positioning, and full boost returned.

the moral of the story is that "good enough" may NOT be "good enough"

[220bhp]

Thanks for your help Lads, I did line up the marks on the cam wheel and the dissy,but I will recheck them. The car seems to have no boost,but its the running hot that bothers me. I have noticed a few posts about timming marks on an RS2 being one tooth off but that the 3b is right on the mark,I assume thats correct,my car is a 3b buy the way.
How do I check the Items you mentioned Newish, I have an s6,if the parts are the same I could try swapping them over, or is there an easier way to check.
MANY THANKS LOU

[220bhp]

I had the fault codes pulled on my car at a different garage yesterday ,then cleared the faults ,and ran the car a few miles and pulled them again. The faults stored were,
One: IDEL ACTUATOR

TWO: CANISTER PURGE VALVE

THREE: BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE

I gess no 3 is the n75 I replaced this a while back, dont know how long they last.
As for the other two I dont know where they are ,or what they look like ,So can anyone help.
Many thanks Lou