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I5 Engine - Oil Changes - How do you do it ?

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  • I5 Engine - Oil Changes - How do you do it ?

    When I'm changing my oil in any of my I5 engines, I use two trolley jacks to lift the front of the car up on the driveway to be able to drain the sump and change the oil filter.

    Also I disconnect one of the metal braided oil cooler pipes beside the twin horns in order to drain the oil cooler to get as much as the old oil out, so that the new oil is not needlessly contaminated from the outset.

    What I'm wondering is, is there a better way to be able to drain the oil out of the oil cooler without taking the oil cooler out ?

    Just curious to know what others do ?

    Thanks.




    Last edited by macspring; 25th September 2017, 23:13.

  • #2
    think getting rid of all the oil is not that simple. you could suck the oil out like some newer cars do.

    to be honest I tend not to be that precious with it. I have a mocal cooler on the front a fair bit bigger than stock s2 and I just drop the oil and add new. the biggest observation I have noticed is around oil quality. millers 10/60 runs quiet, never tappy and doesn't get dirty. 10/40 after a bit or harder running carries all the traits jusrt mentioned. cost differential is pretty big though.

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    • #3
      I used to do it "flat on my back", but I now take her to a friendly workshop that lets me use their lift on saturdays. just the plug out, change the filter (the right tools make this easy) and new oil. looks

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      • #4
        Just do it a bit earlier and don't worry about the ~200ml of oil in the cooler.

        More likely to not do the union up properly and dump the oil on the ground thereby damaging the engine... Rather than wearing it out prematurely

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        • #5
          When oil change time comes (< 5000 km), I start the car (say the 93 UrS4) and warm it up a bit. Then I drive it up onto metal ramps (with extensions so the lowered front clears).

          Then I open the hood (bonnet) and remove the cap on the cam cover and lift up the dipstick.

          Then I remove the undertray/sound deadener (belly pan). (I always run that for aerodynamic reasons *AND* to protect the engine from road debris that has been known to kill AANs. )

          Then a get my drain pan under the sump plug and open my T-207 Fumoto valve (which I have been running since 1999). (It there was a next time, I would buy the T-207NS with a short nipple to which a hose can be attached at the time of draining.

          After that, I let the oil drain as much as possible. I've never worried about the oil cooler. Then I remove the filter (I run the larger diesel filters - always OE or Mann). I use a variety of filter wrenches for this.

          After letting things drain, I close the Fumoto valve (lever ball valve). Wipe things up and start with the install of the oil filter (adding a dipped finger of clean oil on the filter gasket and only turning it on by hand (but strong arms). Then I start adding the oil, slowly. One liter at a time, making sure that I don't over fill.

          When close to full, I start the engine and slowly rev it to 2000 RPM for a few seconds, watching the oil pressure gauge (UrS4). Always 5 bar at that point. Stop the engine.

          Check for leaks then put the belly pan back on (a struggle). Start the car and slowly back it off the ramps. Stop the engine and wait a few minutes. Check the oil level again and then add whatever is needed. Put the cap back on and wipe up any spillage.







          REFERENCES:

          http://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?...modelId=368470 (Ignore the V6 stuff, its the T-207 series you want)

          Consolidated Belly Pan PNs: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/151318.phtml
          RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
          94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by UrS4boy View Post
            When oil change time comes (< 5000 km), I start the car (say the 93 UrS4) and warm it up a bit. Then I drive it up onto metal ramps (with extensions so the lowered front clears).

            Then I open the hood (bonnet) and remove the cap on the cam cover and lift up the dipstick.

            Then I remove the undertray/sound deadener (belly pan). (I always run that for aerodynamic reasons *AND* to protect the engine from road debris that has been known to kill AANs. )

            Then a get my drain pan under the sump plug and open my T-207 Fumoto valve (which I have been running since 1999). (It there was a next time, I would buy the T-207NS with a short nipple to which a hose can be attached at the time of draining.

            After that, I let the oil drain as much as possible. I've never worried about the oil cooler. Then I remove the filter (I run the larger diesel filters - always OE or Mann). I use a variety of filter wrenches for this.

            After letting things drain, I close the Fumoto valve (lever ball valve). Wipe things up and start with the install of the oil filter (adding a dipped finger of clean oil on the filter gasket and only turning it on by hand (but strong arms). Then I start adding the oil, slowly. One liter at a time, making sure that I don't over fill.

            When close to full, I start the engine and slowly rev it to 2000 RPM for a few seconds, watching the oil pressure gauge (UrS4). Always 5 bar at that point. Stop the engine.

            Check for leaks then put the belly pan back on (a struggle). Start the car and slowly back it off the ramps. Stop the engine and wait a few minutes. Check the oil level again and then add whatever is needed. Put the cap back on and wipe up any spillage.







            REFERENCES:

            http://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?...modelId=368470 (Ignore the V6 stuff, its the T-207 series you want)

            Consolidated Belly Pan PNs: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/151318.phtml
            FFS you sure you haven't forgotten anything, talk about teaching granny to suck eggs

            Comment


            • #7
              I use a fumoto valve too brilliant bit of kit
              ABY Cricket Green Pearl Coupe, blk leather
              THE ONLY TROUBLE WITH DOING NOTHING IS KNOWING WHEN YOUR FINISHED!!!

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              • #8
                Mostly what has been stated above but I do one other thing. I always prefill the oil filter before installing. As the oil filter mounts with the threaded opening up it is easy to do. This prevents that annoying scary rattle on start-up.
                "Nulla tenaci invia est via"

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by rustybullethole View Post

                  FFS you sure you haven't forgotten anything, talk about teaching granny to suck eggs

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                  • #10
                    Also I use an engine flush before changing the oil. https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...#bg-product-16
                    Greg

                    S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

                    '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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                    • #11
                      I do 16K between and use 5W40 502.00 oil. Old Skool drain plug method... but make sure YOU do it and not someone else torquing up wheels the same time as drain plugs!! The Fumoto valve update looks good!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rustybullethole View Post
                        FFS you sure you haven't forgotten anything, talk about teaching granny to suck eggs
                        Back when I was teaching Engineering at the University of Saskatchewan (1975-1990), one of the first year classes that I had included having in the students prepare lists of steps to do various things, e.g. change a tire, change oil, etc. It was pretty hilarious when they read their instructions out loud to the class and they realized that they has missed a step. As a result, I try to make my instructions on how to do something very "Thorough" (Our College's motto), as in "make no mistakes *AND* avoid ambiguities". As for granny, I am sure she could teach me how to suck eggs. I have no clue.
                        RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                        94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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                        • #13
                          What I often do as well is once the old oil has drained out, as much as possible, is to stick in another (say) half litre of oil to help clean out some of the dregs in the sump/engine. I've never disconnected any oil coolers on any of my cars and using this additional step means the new oil looks virtually pristine once you're done.
                          Personally, I've always thought your responses and technical info very informative and useful Dave

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                          • #14
                            16K? I doubt I have even hit 6K between changes in over 100K miles...

                            In fact all my car's have had oil changes at or before 6K, I drive them quite hard, so makes sense to at least give it a chance to live.
                            Last edited by Bowie69; 27th September 2017, 12:19.

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                            • #15
                              I change oil every 10 000 km.
                              Gone through quite a few brands and makes - 5w50 Motul ( high consuption - bear in mind on honed engine with new rings ) , 20w50 Yacco ( about the same oil consumption ) , and now on 10w60 with additives - Bardahl Engine Flush , and Bardahl Full Metal. Now oil is at about 8 500 + km with consumption of about 2 L ( i changed exhaust manifold, hence turbo - some oil dropped ) , and did a custom 3' downpipe to center box ( where one of the pipe to turbo studs decided to brake so I took the turbo out again ) . 390 000 proven km C4 S6 on RS2 setup with NM/7A cams , and TS chip ( 380 HP ) . Turbo is original RS2 1994 sold to me from forum member RXL 4 years ago , no shaft play ( I checked twice this summer - see above ) , may have some guilt for the highish consuption . I have also realised that long hot trips increase oil consumption, as well as any boost leaks ( changed all boost pipes / FMIC / rubber T piece above PSV check valve , etc )

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