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I5 Engine - Oil Changes - How do you do it ?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by rustybullethole View Post


    FFS you sure you haven't forgotten anything, talk about teaching granny to suck eggs

    Joined - 2013

    Posts - 183

    and it shows.

    Politeness is what helps to make this forum good to use as well as being very informative.

    As you were.





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    • #17
      Originally posted by macspring View Post

      Joined - 2013

      Posts - 183

      and it shows.

      Politeness is what helps to make this forum good to use as well as being very informative.

      As you were.





      Well said Macspring...'twas an unnecessarily unpleasant post.

      Our Dave is an incredibly helpful contributor to this forum.

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      • #18
        16K km's is the norm.. "Oil" threads are always long... Good/proper oil will outlast the filters. My UrS6 with 190ish km's uses absolutely minimal oil during it's interval and is quite content. My A6QA w/2.8L does use between changes being at a long 360K km"s. Short Km's intervals are for the paranoid and people using older mineral type oils.. YMMV!

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        • #19
          Got the fumoto valve ready to instal on the next oil change can't wait, great bit of kit

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          • #20
            Originally posted by fourringsofhappiness View Post
            16K km's is the norm.. "Oil" threads are always long... Good/proper oil will outlast the filters. My UrS6 with 190ish km's uses absolutely minimal oil during it's interval and is quite content. My A6QA w/2.8L does use between changes being at a long 360K km"s. Short Km's intervals are for the paranoid and people using older mineral type oils.. YMMV!
            I agree but there is a theory that most long lasting oils do not take petrol very well ( from rich mixture conditions ) , and are prone to 'breaking' on molecule level after reaching high temps for longer-ish periods ( 130 -150 C ) , hence the said oil is losing its premium qualities.

            So this theory is rather controversial - if I drove the car hard at more than 10% of the time - I would have changed the oil even more frequent - at 7500 km. After all , any oil and filter does not cost much over 10000 km .

            Has anyone tried Marly oil - Belgian brand - with high graphite additive so that the oil looks like molten pencils?

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            • #21
              I just drain it at the sump plug, leaving it out for half an hour or so, after removing the filter, to drain out the oilways and head area. Always use fully synthetic 5w/30, same as goes in the Isuzu and buy from Ebay at around 50 ukp or less for 20 litres. Old oil goes back into an older barrel and taken to the council tip every so often...

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              • #22
                i missed a step.

                last stage. use old engine oil on faded plastics on bumpers.even new 10/40 beats autoglym.



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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Cordoba16vt View Post
                  I change oil every 10 000 km.
                  Gone through quite a few brands and makes - 5w50 Motul ( high consuption - bear in mind on honed engine with new rings ) , 20w50 Yacco ( about the same oil consumption ) , and now on 10w60 with additives - Bardahl Engine Flush , and Bardahl Full Metal. Now oil is at about 8 500 + km with consumption of about 2 L ( i changed exhaust manifold, hence turbo - some oil dropped ) , and did a custom 3' downpipe to center box ( where one of the pipe to turbo studs decided to brake so I took the turbo out again ) . 390 000 proven km C4 S6 on RS2 setup with NM/7A cams , and TS chip ( 380 HP ) . Turbo is original RS2 1994 sold to me from forum member RXL 4 years ago , no shaft play ( I checked twice this summer - see above ) , may have some guilt for the highish consuption . I have also realised that long hot trips increase oil consumption, as well as any boost leaks ( changed all boost pipes / FMIC / rubber T piece above PSV check valve , etc )
                  wow 4 years have passed?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by rxl View Post

                    wow 4 years have passed?
                    3 years - I got it from you Jan 2015 , being driven every day.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by GazzaG60 View Post
                      i missed a step.

                      last stage. use old engine oil on faded plastics on bumpers.even new 10/40 beats autoglym.


                      I thought old engine oil was damaging to rubbers and plastics? Or is it just certain types of rubber, like bushes and stuff?
                      C4 A6 AEL avant quattro: daily

                      TYPE-85 Coupe Quattro: clicky
                      2.5L GTi engineering RE2500 190hp.180lb
                      Schrick 272 cam
                      C A C 2.5" T304 Exhaust
                      ITG filter

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                      • #26
                        nevger had any issues on audi/vw plastics. i used old stuff on the s2 bumpers to get the bottom back to normal colour and use new on the 80 as the top of bumpers are plastic. gets rid of the old muck great.

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