Large IC install/pluming

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  • newsh
    replied
    Yep, you're right!

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  • 4WheelDrifter
    replied
    John, your T piece is probably different to Bo's as your car is '92 and Bo's is '91. I'm guessing you have the 2-piece trim under the headlights, whereas Bo originally had the single piece that bolts to that T section.

    I'll go back to doing other geek stuff now.

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  • newsh
    replied
    Originally posted by smogthemog
    I found the ally tubes to be too soft and they just distorted when I did the clamps up and thus leaked
    TBH I knew I was in trouble when I saw the stuff was made in China.

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  • smogthemog
    replied
    I found the ally tubes to be too soft and they just distorted when I did the clamps up and thus leaked

    I did exactly the same mate, bought all my stuff off EBay then realised I had purchased stuff not up to the job

    My first purchase is here: http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?...ghlight=#82020

    My second fit up is here: http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?...wtopic&t=15234

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    Bo, thanks for that pic, it helps to get another angle on it.

    Yeah Jim, they are rubbish, I'd already decided to not use them. If the ally tubes are no good too, I've wasted some money

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  • smogthemog
    replied
    John - A word of warning for those 90 degree bends you have there on the ends of your IC.
    I fitted those type of rubbers to my original FMIC fit, when I had the 3" aluminium pipes I bought off of EBay (I soon changed them to Stainless Steel ! - they where crap and too soft)

    The 90 degree bends you have there don't look to be reinforced and don't look to be silicone either.
    With the 120 degree or so temperatures you will be getting from your turbo exducer and the pressures involved there into the IC and thus through those bends, you will virtually destroy them..... They will go bang!
    They are not good at those temps and pressures. Your need silicone reinforced ones - or steel with short joiners

    Just a thought

    Jim

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  • s2_bo
    replied
    You can kind off see here how much tilt it has, it was catching on the snub bracket so i had to trim it down a bit.
    IMG_2692.jpg
    With out this tilt there was no way of fitting the bumper. - If the whole thing had been moved closer by cutting down the snub mount then it would have got to close to the pulley.

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  • s2_bo
    replied
    Originally posted by newsh
    Yes the upright of the "T" which normally bolts to the old crossmember, its edges are folded forward and effectively make it about 15mm thick, the new IC sits up against these edges, otherwise it would go back further I think. Also did you shorten your snub mount bracket as Martin did or leave it stock length.

    Thats odd. If anything on mine it touched the Snub mount bracket. But not the bolt or the fins thats now holding that panel down.

    No i didn't shorten it. But i might cut of 15- 20mm when i rebuild the engine. At the time if fitted ok with out, but i guess with it shorter you could get the IC back further, that could however involve modifying the the new xmember.
    Also on my set up i had to make the IC lean it at the bottom. That was the only way to get the bumper on. So its not sitting vertically level at all.

    Let me know if you need some more pics.

    Cheers.
    Bo


    P.s. I may have some good clips for your monster hoses . If you look at them fitted on mine i had to pack them out because they didn't tighten enough,, but with your pipework they should be ok...

    Cheers.
    Bo
    Last edited by s2_bo; 4 November 2007, 23:30.

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  • newsh
    replied
    Yes the upright of the "T" which normally bolts to the old crossmember, its edges are folded forward and effectively make it about 15mm thick, the new IC sits up against these edges, otherwise it would go back further I think. Also did you shorten your snub mount bracket as Martin did or leave it stock length.

    edit: just seen your pic yes, that the bit, funny how those wires are in the way in every pic Here's another pic then, the leg of the T seems to be down level with the lower edge of the crossmember.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by newsh; 4 November 2007, 23:21.

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  • s2_bo
    replied
    Originally posted by newsh
    Bo, did you cut the bottom off the metal panel that comes down the middle with the bonnet safety catch on it? On mine this is holding the IC away from the CM. I seem to have a lot of space between the back of the IC and the crank pulley.


    Looking good there John, No i didnt cut any metal panels. If your mean to the "T" that joins both sides and then bolts to the crossmember at the bottom, then i just bolted that straight to the new xmember. On mine it sits at exactly the same place os the OEM unit.

    Not sure if thats the bit you mean though.

    I have circled it on the pic.

    Bo

    untitled.jpg

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  • newsh
    replied
    Linky to Martinjs' pics..

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  • 4WheelDrifter
    replied
    Originally posted by newsh
    Crossmember, RS2 IC, removed. Also took the step of removing the Aircon compressor and rad and all the brackets and piping across the front of the car, one of the brackets seems to be a blanking cover for an oilway though, has an O ring in it, so I left that one there..
    You don't want to remove that one John, it's a blanking plate for the oil return on non-A/C engines.

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  • newsh
    replied
    Comparison with RS2 IC, not quite correct as the new one is slightly further from the camera
    Attached Files

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  • newsh
    replied
    one more
    Attached Files

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  • newsh
    replied
    looking down

    Attached Files
    Last edited by newsh; 29 December 2012, 18:31.

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