ABY Engine Powerflex Snub Mount

[Fat Audi 80]

Has anyone used this:

https://www.powerflexsuspensionbushe...s2-86363-p.asp

I have an original rubber one and can feel engine movement.

Any BTDT / Pros and cons for this please?

Cheers

Steve

[tango123]

when i had loads of work done on my car, i was told not to use one because they are rubbish..... The stock one went back on.

[Fat Audi 80]

when i had loads of work done on my car, i was told not to use one because they are rubbish..... The stock one went back on.

Thanks for the feedback!

[Tractor Dave]

If you are getting lots of movement it's more likely the main mounts. I believe the front mount is just a buffer.

[Fat Audi 80]

Not lots of movement, just "spring" all engine mounts where new about 20 - 30k miles ago. (I can rock the engine front to back by hand and it "springs") Is there some adjustment available?

[Tractor Dave]

There is adjustment on the front mount. The plate has elongated holes.

[Lago Blue]

Steve,

You have this spring effect on a coupe, correct? If yes, this thread may be of help:

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...ket-for-b3-use

[Jaswan]

Completely unrelated really but, I have a 24v vr6 in my coupé.... I'm thinking of adding a snub mount so I'm curious about the feedback you receive.

Jase.

[orsum]

I am just looking into the snub mount on my coupe. I have the original hard rubber and original bracket.

In my spares lockup I have a snub mount buffer part number 8D0-199-339P. I am looking to modify the original bracket and fit this Mount, Insulator, Front Support Bushing, Front Support Cushion Bumper or whatever its called.

The reason for me looking into this is all to do with engine and drive chain movement. I would like to reduce the knock/slap from the system when coming off and on the accelerator.

There appears to be a simple mod that works. check this link. Sorry I cannot find the original discussion this is just a picture of the mod https://www.s2forum.com/filedata/fetch?id=1363320

I think its worth a try. I will do the mod to the bracket first and keep the original rubber support rubber and try the other support later if I need to.

[s2driveruk]

Sport quattro snub mount will hold it tight!

[varia]

https://www.ultraperformance.co.uk/f...b-mount-socket

[M_GORDON]

Engine AKMotorsport mounts and no more engine "knocks"

Oem rubber "nose" from 1994 and perfect

[Lago Blue]

Not to snub the Snub, but it comes last.

For Steve (in UK) and Steve (in ZA), while it is not entirely clear to me that you are both describing the same issue, I believe that the solution to the shared portion of both your issues involves the same 5 parts all working best together. What that means is each must be properly sharing the appropriate loads as described below. These would be the 2 main motor mounts (which for brevity and they being the most robust of the 5, and are sized for the heaviest share of the loads, I am going to almost skip over entirely as I am assuming they are serviceable), the 2 tranny mounts, and by far the lightest, the snub/receiver (the 5th mount).

The main motor mounts are so strong vertically that they (despite their quite forward position, see the two C-shaped eng. mount chassis attachment brackets (grey) just forward of the sub-frame's (black) cross-member of Real Customs' photo below) act as the defacto fulcrum (or pivot) over which the eng./xmsn. assy. pitches up-down with all torque reversals (on and off the throttle). With applied throttle, the tranny moves down, the snub moves up; and vice versa. With applied throttle and against contact-patch traction, the pinion attempts to climb the ring gear in the diff., this is the root of eng/xmsn up/down pitch (the same thing happens at the rear diff, with predictably similar stock mount damage).

Even new stock tranny mounts (just like stock top-mounts and A-arm bushes), are well known to be too soon fatigued along their working axis (in this case vertically) to best resist eng./xmsn pitch (fore/aft up and down) and torque (left up-down/right down-up twist). Therefore, do not expect the snub alone to fix your issue, even if yours' appear serviceable. There isn't enough geometry or material in the snub/receiver to make up for even weakened tranny mounts. Further, weakened tranny mounts also pass the left-right twist of eng. torque to the main eng. mounts alone; which they should best not have to bare by themselves.

What the snub/receiver has, is the advantage of quite some distance (i.e.: leverage) from the fore/aft fulcrum around which the eng./xmsn pitches up/down. So the idea of the snub is that, without the tranny mounts having to be completely solid and unyielding, we can further restrain eng./xmsn assy up-down pitch with the relatively light touch of the snub and receiver (and note they are also sized accordingly, quite small, even compared to 2 tranny mounts) and still have some compliance in the tranny mounts for good NVH suppression. What is perhaps needed before a more effective snub/receiver is likely better tranny mounts, then attend to the snub. There are options, B5 and All-Road tranny mounts are two that come to mind. The B5s are a little stronger than stock, the All-Roads are a hydro-mount like the eng. mounts.

From under the car if one lifts on the tail-end of the tranny and can also lower it some distance, is evidence of slack in the tranny mounts that should be addressed there first before moving on to the snub. Evidence of a deformed or abraded snub elastomer or perceived movement can be a marker of already sufficiently weakened tranny mounts, if not simply a mis-adjusted snub receiver. Certainly this 3 location review (tranny and snub mounts in that order) is a part of what one can do to best address what Steve (in ZA) is describing with "knock/slap from the system when coming off and on the accelerator." but not all in my view (see also 'Arm-Stops'), and it may best address (UK) Steve's spring effect.

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