Intermittent power loss

[dm80]

Hi folks.. would appreciate some advice. I've got the car currently in the garage. I've had a coolant leak for a while, but also started experiencing loss of power. It's not the head gasket.. Coolant leak was a hose I didn't spot. If the loss of power/boost was due to a leak somewhere, then surely it wouldn't be intermittent???? Any advice appreciated.. The car can run like a dream some days, but other days v. poor..

[LHD_Kid]

When mine did this the first time, was a boost pipe leak, second time, it turned out to be the WasteGate Frequency Valve, on a 3B its plumbed in near the Throttle Bypass Valve behind O/S headlight and down a bit... quite hard to get at....
First thing to check I reckon, is that it is plugged in properly, maybe the plug is not pushed fully home...
HTH's, I found, try the simplest cheapest first....!
Chris

[dm80]

Cheers.. will suggest that - probably an easier job with that manual you sent

When mine did this the first time, was a boost pipe leak, second time, it turned out to be the WasteGate Frequency Valve, on a 3B its plumbed in near the Throttle Bypass Valve behind O/S headlight and down a bit... quite hard to get at....
First thing to check I reckon, is that it is plugged in properly, maybe the plug is not pushed fully home...
HTH's, I found, try the simplest cheapest first....!
Chris

[predding]

Hello,

Just tagging onto this, my OBD flash codes gave 4442 which indicates WFV - is there a simple way to test it electrically eg touch terminal with 12v power and see if it clicks? Car is 1990 and has stood for 2 years, do these valves degenert ie for the low cost, good to change it just to tick off the list, I also have error code 2324 so trying to identify what that is. Thanks

[newsh]

https://www.engine-codes.com/p2324_audi.html

[newsh]

Check the connection on the low voltage side of the ignition coil.

[K Simmonds]

I'd clean the contacts to the Waste Gate Freqency Valve as well as the MAF whilst I was at it, that might well sort the problem.

Though it could require a replacment N75 (WGFV).

I think I have a good 3B one spare somewhere I could send you to use to help diagnoise the problem. I would however want it back unless I can find two as I want to keep one as a spare for my car.

[predding]

I'd clean the contacts to the Waste Gate Freqency Valve as well as the MAF whilst I was at it, that might well sort the problem.

Though it could require a replacment N75 (WGFV).

I think I have a good 3B one spare somewhere I could send you to use to help diagnoise the problem. I would however want it back unless I can find two as I want to keep one as a spare for my car.

Thanks. I will take the old one off and replace it anyway, 32 years is a good innings and for the cost it's another liable cause removed. Lesson learnt - never leave a car in a garage this long again...

[predding]

Check the connection on the low voltage side of the ignition coil.

Excellent - thanks John, really appreciated. Gradually ticking all the possibles off the list, I will find the little ****** one day and then will be leaping around the garage in great happiness. Have never ever had such a difficult issue to locate on a car, ever.

[K Simmonds]

Thanks. I will take the old one off and replace it anyway, 32 years is a good innings and for the cost it's another liable cause removed. Lesson learnt - never leave a car in a garage this long again...

That's a good idea,as you rightly say it's 32 years old so has had a pretty good inning considering it lives in a very hot area of the engine bay.

It doesn't generally hurt leaving a car in storage for a long time, however, there's couple of things ones should do if you think it's not going back on the road for over a year. Try and find somewhere you can dry store the car but if you have to leave it outside try and keep it out of the direct summer sun. UV light does paint, tyres and interiors no favours at all. It can even cause the cloth on the headlining to seperate if it's over 20 years old.

I do the following with my RS2. Inflate all the tyres to their max pressure, normally around 50 PSI. Then every month or so check the tyre pressures and roll the car so the wheels rotate 180 degree's, you need five or six foot or so clear at the back and the front to give you space to do it... This avoids potentially flat spotting the tyres.

Leave the handbrake off and chock the wheels.

Before you lay the car up drain the oil and replace the filter as per doing a regular oil change.

Refill the engine using a very high quailty fully synthetic oil of the correct grade for your car and the ambeint temps.. I really rate Fuchs Titan 10W50 as it has an excellent wear and stabaliser addative pakage. Start the engine and with the heating on flat out and allow it to run up to temp and the fan kicks in. If your lucky enough to have working air-con put this on maximum cold once the engine has warmed up and leave it running for five min's.

If you use a an oil of this quality you don't have to worry so much about it breaking down over time, if you just use normal semi synthetic then really this should be renewed every three years as it starts to break down after one heat cycle and simply isn't designed to last for extended periods of time, even if your not starting the engine very often

An engine doesn't need to be started all that often to keep all the moving parts happy, but do make sure you run it upto operating temp at least once or twice a year...

If you have the space engauge first gear and l carefully let the car run forward a few feet and then reverse it, this will prevent the clutch from sticking and also move the gearbox oil about.

Same applies to the coolant. I stick a tin Wynn's coolant system flush/conditioner and drive around with it in for ten to 20 miles then drain and flush the sytem pay attention to the heater matrix, I always flush this both ways untill the water coming out is spotless. Refill with something that's decent quality, either pre mixed or home mixed using deionised water in cold climates use it neat, in fact this isn't bad idea wherever you live. I use VAG's own stuff neat as I have an account with them and purchase coolant in five gallon containers when it's on special offer.

If you follow those steps then you should be able to keep a car layed up for a good few years with minimal chance of problems, keep an eye out for leaks from the coolant, air-con and PAS fluids. A good way of doing this is get a couple of nice clean white carboard boxes cut them into flat sheets and put them under the car in areas where one may get a leak such as the coolant and PAS systems.

Obviously before you take to the road again, check the operation of the braking system and do another oil change if it's been sometime in storage. In fact this probably wouldn't be a bad time to change the brake fluid, usless you did it prior to putting your car into hibernation. It normally has a servce life of four years, though it often get's neglected.

OP, please excuss the thread drift but I thoght this info would be helpful to other members.

[predding]

Thats v helpful, thanks. It is in a dry garage but hasnt moved due to illness. I keep forgetting about overinflating the tyres. I also spoke with Shell at Goodwood and they said the same as you ie change the oil before laying up. Good idea on the clutch too. Thanks for all that - really appreciated

[K Simmonds]

Happy to help, I've edited the end of the last bit about brakes... The fluid should also really be changed before storage unless it's been changed fairly recnetly and the stuff has a four year life span...

Now lets try and get this chaps thread back on track.

[predding]

I just removed and tested the WFV and its absoluetly fine, blew through it and it sealed very well both activated and deactivated. So how can it give an error code? Unless there is a power signal fail from the ECU but need to find the ECU first...unless there is a fuse for it in the fuse box and there is no power but then the injectors wouldnt work...

[K Simmonds]

I just removed and tested the WFV and its absoluetly fine, blew through it and it sealed very well both activated and deactivated. So how can it give an error code? Unless there is a power signal fail from the ECU but need to find the ECU first...unless there is a fuse for it in the fuse box and there is no power but then the injectors wouldnt work...

That is a bit strange and frustrating as it sounds like it's working. propery... I think I'd pop the passengers side headlight out so you can inspect the wiring to the plug propely, perhaps that's been rubbing somewhew causing damaged to the wires insulation and one is earthing out or worn very thin. Also as John sugests check the conection on the coil.

Electrics aren't really my thing, I'm a mechanic but I tend to do jobs such as cylinder head as well as full engine rebuilds and clutch replaments for a classic car specialist. So hopefully someone with better S2 wiring knowlage can chip in...

Sorry if I've missed it but what car are we talking about here? Your flag is US and you didn't get S2's over there, though you did get 3B and AAN engine cars which are very much the same.engine wise.

The ECU is normally up behind the glove box and as far as I'm aware there is no fuse for the N75.

[newsh]

With the shareware version of Vagcom you can do an output test of the WGFV.
I suspect a broken wire or corroded plug connection though..