The head is of and problems start now

[220bhp]

I picked up the head today, it looks fantastic, the problem is though it was 10thou out, so they had to take quite a bit of.I know its not good to raise the compression on turbo cars,so I was wondering if anyone has had expe'rience in this direction, or if anyone knows what the max is that you can take of, just a bit worried.the machine shop said its fine but I would be happier hearing it from somebody on hear,co's I want to start bolting it back together


LOU

[twoqu]

Lou,
There is a specified minimum dimension of 118.1mm when measured from the top of a bolt hole to the cylinder head face. I don't recall seing a specified figure for the allowable amount of resurfacing. Presumably its the difference between that figure and the original!
As for the compression, if you are using a metal gasket it shouldn't be a problem as it is thicker. When used on cars which had the original paper gasket it effectively lowers compression.
At the end of the day you have a flat head with no leaks which should be better than before.

[AndyP]

10 thou is not a lot to remove from a head, according to my calculations it will raise the CR from 8.99:1 to 9.00:1. So I wouldn't worry about it.

[LHD_Kid]

I was working out the same thing.... wasn't exactly sure though.... but yes, its not much difference, and as has been said, with the slightly thicker metal gasket all should be fine...!
Good luck Lou

[philS2]

Thought about engine mounts and snub, they all look ok,but how would I check this.

there will be a mark on your sump where the engine has been catching if your engine mounts are shot.unlikely the snub will be gone though,as it only stops your engine lifting at the front.

[philS2]

try again there will be a mark on your sump where it's been catching the sub frame.

[220bhp]

Thanks for that info,Phils2 , no marks on sump ,so I will stick to the old mounts.
As for the engine, the head is on, both manifolds, so nearly ready to put it back in. I did have a problem tourqueing the head down, I followed the instuctions in the manual to the letter first 40nm in the right order, then 60nm again in order, then a half turn, this is where the problem came in the pressure I had to put on the wrench to get that half turn was unbeleavable,it just felt like the bolts where going to brake. The manual then says to turn a futher two quarter turns with out stoping there was no way without breaking something so I left them.
My question is do I try again today, or leave well alone. I did check that the bolt holes where clear and lubricated the bolts,could it be that its much harder to compress the RS2 metel head gasket.


Lou

[Jay]

Does the instructions you are following say to lub the bolt threads as if not you will have massively increased the torque!!?

torquing by angle is a much better way of doing this than just a poor torque setting method but on some engines you do need a big/long 'breaker' bar and big muscles, its not easy and sometimes feels as if something is going to snap

Jay

[twoqu]

Thanks for that info,Phils2 , no marks on sump ,so I will stick to the old mounts.
As for the engine, the head is on, both manifolds, so nearly ready to put it back in. I did have a problem tourqueing the head down, I followed the instuctions in the manual to the letter first 40nm in the right order, then 60nm again in order, then a half turn, this is where the problem came in the pressure I had to put on the wrench to get that half turn was unbeleavable,it just felt like the bolts where going to brake. The manual then says to turn a futher two quarter turns with out stoping there was no way without breaking something so I left them.
My question is do I try again today, or leave well alone. I did check that the bolt holes where clear and lubricated the bolts,could it be that its much harder to compress the RS2 metel head gasket.


Lou

Lou!

I think you have misread the instructions! The third stage of 180 degree can be done EITHER all at once OR in two 90 degree stages(= 180). Not an additional 180 degrees.
I agree its not a pleasant experience but you are actually stretching the bolts!

[twoqu]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21111&highlight=head+gasket

[220bhp]

I have just reread the instructions again,and you are right Robin, just as well I left it alone, as for lubricating the bolts,yes I did and checked that the holes where clean.
As to snaping bolts of I am affraid I have a reputation for doing just that, and its come back to haunt me because I have just snaped one of the four studs,the ones that come of the turbo hot side, In the **** know ******.

[220bhp]

Well after spending most of the day drilling out the broken turbo stud, and gen'erally going backwords, the engine is almost ready to go back in the car. I have a couple of questions, if anyone can help, I have set the timing by align'ing the marks on the cams, and the marks on the dizzy, but I hav'nt tightend the crank bolt as yet as I thought it would be better to do it when the engine is back in the car and every thing is anchored down, am I right to do this or not.
the second question is the thrust bearing,its been exposed for a few weeks,is it possible to lubricate it or not.

LOU

[220bhp]

Engine is in the car.

[Jay]

Christ you dont mess around, good luck with start up

Jay

P.S dont forget the crank bolt have you got the locking tool for the job??

[220bhp]

Yes I have got a the crank locking tool thanks m8 and no I won't forget to locktight it and vent my anger when doing the nut up, 450nm bring it on.
I have to say that if anyone is considering doing this,save your pennys and get Corey or Doug at MRC to do it, these Guys are heroes to do this all day, you nead to have the pa'tients of jobe, the ability to contort' like a snake, have hands and arms, that are not only as thin as a pencil ,but also made of rubber,with skin made of carbon fi'bre and spanners made of memory metel. These might be great cars, and its just as well they don't go wrong to often because AUDI defo did'nt design them to be worked on the ******s
LOU