removing dizzy - turning engine to mark?

[Nj]

erm... i'm having a bash at getting my dizzy off with the obvious problems. I saw an old post that mentions I should turn the engine manually to mark. how do I do that then?

i'm also looking at lifting the inlet manifold but I don't know if I can do any damage attempting this?

cheers
Nj

[martinjs]

You need to set the engine at TDC, turn the crank via the crank bolt. Make sure all the timing marks line up (notch in the crank pulley, dot on the cam pulley, the mark on the flywheel which you should see through the g/box bell housing) Before you remove the dizzy see if the mark on top of the hall sender unit (just under the rotor arm) lines up with the mark on the dizzy base. The rotor arm should be pointing to no1 cyl.
I agree its a lot easier to lift up the inlet manifold, you dont really need to disconnect anything apart from the earthing wires near the FPR. lift the front high enough and tie it to the underside of the bonnet. I posted a pic somewhere when i did mine.

HTH

[martinjs]

Here are a few links to threads all about setting/removing etc the dizzy, some pics in there also which will explain it a bit easier.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9292&page=3&highlight=dizzy

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16690&highlight=dizzy

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5028&highlight=dizzy

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3104&highlight=dizzy

[Nj]

fantastic mate. i'll have a gander at those instead of working this morning. (in a very small browser window)
cheers
Nj

[LHD_Kid]

Its also possible to move the engine by putting the car in top gear and pushing the car gently...
Another slightly heath robinson way of getting TDC (or close to it) is to remove #1 spark plug and rest a long screwdriver on the top of the piston, engage gear as above an gently rock and roll untill the screwdriver is absolutely at the top of its travel, BTW the dizzy rotates twice for one rev of the engine (or the other wayround)
HTH but it gets you close enough to spot the dizzy marks and bell housing one...

Chris


Its also more than possible to get the dizzy out without removing the manifold, remove the ISV to get your left hand in (you will struggle though if the tamper prooof cover is still there, in which case much easier to remove IM)

[4WheelDrifter]

BTW the dizzy rotates twice for one rev of the engine (or the other wayround)
HTH but it gets you close enough to spot the dizzy marks and bell housing one...

The cam/dizzy rotates once for every two crank revolutions, so it's important that you line up the dot on the cam pulley. Otherwise it's possible to have the dizzy 180° out.

[Nj]

I have to say i'm pretty apprehensive about turning the crank and lining up timing marks and all. I don't even know where to find the crank bolt or where i'm supposed to see the flywheel through the gearbox bell housing. but hey - that's the steep learning curve that's so common for people on here. I wouldn't be confident at all in doing any of this if it wasn't for the support available from you all. cheers

[Greenm3]

I didnt have too much of a problem geting the dizzy out with the manifold in place, just need a big strong metal chisel and a hammer to get the tamper proof off. I just found it was a much bigger PITA to remove the manifold, almost impossible to remove some bolts with out making a tool up to reach them thru the small holes in the inlet.
Just use some one with small hands, like a wife/ girlfreind or children always work well and they dont have to be payed as much as a mechanic!

is there any particular reason you are removing he dizzy? If your replacing it be sure that there is the right rotor arm on it, i know a few people have had problems with being supplied with the wrong ones.

[Nj]

I might do that mate and give it a go without taking off the manifold. i've managed to get into the plate from above with a long impact screwdriver. i'm going to grind a sharper tip onto it and get the ****** off. my son's only 9 weeks old so I don't think my wife will let him help me. i'll perservere and get it off eventually. I just need to be very careful and follow the advice above to line up several marks and make sure venus is in the 7th quadrant or something.

I'm removing the dizzy to replace it by the way. Dunno if the hall sensor or dizzy gear (or both?) are knackered. vagcom thinks it's the hall sensor but even if the gear is ok i want to replace it with a metal one.

[martinjs]

If you do decide to remove the manifold you will need the VAG tool for it, basically a long 6mm allen key socket that fits down the access holes in the manifold. Try turning the rotor arm by hand before you remove the dizzy, if you cant spin it round then the gear is ok.

[Nj]

cheers. yeah the rotar arm doesn't turn so the gear is ok i hope. still wouldn't mind changing the gear to a metal one while I have the dizzy off to replace the hall sensor though

[Nj]

question:

If i take stock of the markings as they are on my dizzy just now and put the new dizzy on with the markings exactly the same (without moving the car at all) would the timing remain OK as it is? rotor arm doesn't turn so the dizzy gear must be ok.

or... (and this is very possible).. am I a total numbty?

[GeorgeS2UK]

Btdt

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8652&page=2

[Nj]

cheers george. i'll be fashioning myself a custom 13mm spanner pretty soon by the looks of things. Still don't know if i can remove the old dizzy and refit the new one with the marks and rotor arm lined up the same as the one I took out though.

[Dubbedup]

Hi sweetcheeks...

I would have thought if you get it about right and stick the new dizzy in, we would be able to adjust the timing, and get it about right or does the S2 have a static timing marks, or what?