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I would still measure the back pressure, especially if you say you get a strange sound in the exhaust. You also said that it happened suddenly, which could be symtomatic of something coming apart in the muffler or plugging the muffler.
Mike
I would still measure the back pressure, especially if you say you get a strange sound in the exhaust. You also said that it happened suddenly, which could be symtomatic of something coming apart in the muffler or plugging the muffler.
Mike
i have a straight pipe from turbo to rear muffler. the rear muffler is 50cm long and i would see if something blocked the exhaust gas flow...
strange sound is like rapid backfiring, like antilag, but much quieter. it seems to me that you can get such sound if you have really rich afr and really retarded ignition... ...and you will loose power - just as i do...
the question is what makes ecu to retard ignition so much and enrich the mixture?? i have 2 ideas..
1)the first (the most unlikely, but natural) idea is detonation....
2) the second is that some kind of sensor is giving the wrong signal, or the ecu is "understanding" them incorrectly.. for example the hall sender and the knock sensors:
we all know that the hall sender provides the ignition firing point for the #1 cylinder when the engine is first started and also determines injection timing and sequence and provides the cylinder reference signal for the knock sensors.. the wrong injection timing, and the wrong reference signal for the knock sensors makes ecu to retard ignition and enrich the mixture... a-la "false" detonation. Bingo!
the "faulty" signal of the hall sender may be caused by the defective toothed belt pulley or by the g40 itself...
anyway im going to check it this weekend on practice....
I just re-read all the previous posts, and found something missing. The harmonic balancer key which is on the front of the crankshaft can break, causing timing to look right, but actually be wrong. It is common for this to happen if you change the timing belt and don't have the proper audi tools available. You mentioned that you have an AAN belt on, which suggests that it's been on and off. You could pull number one plug, put a stick down the hole, rotate until you have top dead center, then check the timing marks.
Good Luck
Mike
I thought this but would the engine run properly at all?
It's amazing, but it can run. Bolt is holding everything in "place". I have seen AAN with broken pin. It had a problem with startup, also was not boosting more than 0.5bar, but it run.
Also, as far I understand with genuine RS2 software on AAN, you need timing adjustment, because RS2 timing belt and it's alignment is not the same as rest of 20vt (search forum). Many ppl have problems due to that.
Sau
200 20vt 88' 3b, human carrier
CQ typ85 with AAN inside, see project blog at http://kwlw.blogspot.com
I just re-read all the previous posts, and found something missing. The harmonic balancer key which is on the front of the crankshaft can break, causing timing to look right, but actually be wrong. It is common for this to happen if you change the timing belt and don't have the proper audi tools available. You mentioned that you have an AAN belt on, which suggests that it's been on and off. You could pull number one plug, put a stick down the hole, rotate until you have top dead center, then check the timing marks.Good Luck
Mike
It's amazing, but it can run. Bolt is holding everything in "place". I have seen AAN with broken pin. It had a problem with startup, also was not boosting more than 0.5bar, but it run.
Also, as far I understand with genuine RS2 software on AAN, you need timing adjustment, because RS2 timing belt and it's alignment is not the same as rest of 20vt (search forum). Many ppl have problems due to that.
i read everything i could find, but didnt understand the difference between the AAN\ABY and ADU timing belts. i know these belts have different p\n but what is the physical difference? length or number of teeth?
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