Turning boost up with kjetronic

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  • JP
    S2Forum Extremist
    • Mar 2007
    • 1858
    • Country: United Kingdom

    #1

    Turning boost up with kjetronic

    Already bored with the standard power fig of the 180hp 10v lump in my 200 have decided to have a play with increasing the boost on the standard kjetronic system whilst saving up for management.
    A quick mod to the external wastegate has now made it fully adjustable by use of pre load on the spring.
    So far I've been going in gradual steps keeping an eye on fueling and behaviour of the engine and have come up with an issue that not 100% sure whether ignition or fueling.

    Intermittendly I get hesitation under acceleration on WOT. Can't quite place the prob. Being Kjetronic I cleaned the warm up regulator which controls fuel pressure checked a gauge on the system to make sure good fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel filter and double checked the pump is operating correctly. Each step gave minor improvement to the problem so I turned the boost up to 1.6bar absolute pressure or 0.6 bar of boost as some people prefer to refer to from the factory 1.39bar absolute. Thinking I still have a fueling issue I've decided to add some extra shims in 40thou increments to a total of 80thou extra through experimenting on the internal kjet fuel pressure regulator spring. Again improvement when it goes well on overal performance but still the intermittend hesitation. Looking at the spark plugs they dont appear overly lean if anything a slight yellowy tan colour so no real concerns there at the mo.

    This leads me to the conclusion there may be an issue with the ignition. The original dizzy on the car went faulty and ended up having to be replaced. However I could not find a like for like replacenet and had to mod a vacuum advance dizzy to work on the car. This is now where I need help as not 100% sure how the dizzy on my car shouild operate.
    I know for a fact that I had to mod the 5 point trigger wheel of the vacuum advance dizzy to a single point as the engine uses a crank trigger for spark and only uses the single point trigger in the dizzy as a cam position sensor. Timing advance and retard is fully controlled by the use of ECU and knock sensor. This is now where my concern lies as the dizzy itself has a certain amount of natural mechanical advance build into it by use of the internal counterweight system. This means as I rev the engine the dizzy naturally advances itself giving a different cam reference point through the rev range (I've left the vacuum advance disconnected). Is this normal or are the original non vacuum distributors locked with no internal advance. UNfortunatelly I cant remember the original one as it has been several months. If they are supposed to be locked is there an easy mod for this to save me having to find a dizzy as it's Inters this weekend and would like to have a play with the standard motor down the strip to give a reference point before I do the ECU upgrade. The car is an 86 200 Turbo Quattro with a KG 10v lump in it.

    Thank you in advance to anyone that can shed some light on the subject whether other fueling improvements that can be had or ignition info.
    UrS6 Stroker + HTA3586 =
  • Baldy
    S2Forum Addict
    • Jun 2004
    • 469
    • Home: Sikkim Current: British Antarctic Territory

    #2
    have you done the Zener diode mod on the ECU?
    the problem is that the ECU on the 10v doesnt control fueling after 4500rpm so no matter how much more boost that you try and run the ecu cannot fuel it.
    there are a few different methods of trying to run more boost you can run a 6th injector which is a single programmable injector that goes in the cold start injector which will increase the fuel with a microdynamics EMS5(or 6cant remember which) which will retard the ignition more.

    you can try porsche v8 metering head to increase fueling.

    you should be able to get it to around the 220bhp mark without much problem because your engine is basically a UR quattro engine but beyond that takes some serious messing about

    i stand to be corrected on some of this but most of it should be correct

    HTH
    Nautic Blue UR-Quattro RS2spec ABY20v kkk26/27 hybrid,Bremsport Brake Kit n some other Gubbins.water injection. Mihnea tuned Management The old Bus
    0-60 4.9
    1/4mile 13.5

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    • JP
      S2Forum Extremist
      • Mar 2007
      • 1858
      • Country: United Kingdom

      #3
      I've seen cars hit .8to .9bar of boost on the standard fuel setup so was hoping to avoid the 6th injector route although I have got access to one if the need arises. I was unaware that the ECU controlled any sort of fueling as I thought it was all done through the Kjet system. So the Zener diode mod on the ECU is unknown to me. More info would be good on this one.
      I've got a fresh engine that I'm going to build on the sideline for the aftermarket management so trying to keep my playing about on the current unit to minimum but 220 would be a nice achievement or anywhere near it. Like mentioned before I actually think I'm down to an ignition problem now rather than fueling so hopefully further fueling mods are not required to sustain the increase in boost for short durations of time.
      UrS6 Stroker + HTA3586 =

      Comment

      • Baldy
        S2Forum Addict
        • Jun 2004
        • 469
        • Home: Sikkim Current: British Antarctic Territory

        #4
        it basically disables overboost protection
        bottom of the page

        this may be of interest
        Nautic Blue UR-Quattro RS2spec ABY20v kkk26/27 hybrid,Bremsport Brake Kit n some other Gubbins.water injection. Mihnea tuned Management The old Bus
        0-60 4.9
        1/4mile 13.5

        Comment

        • JP
          S2Forum Extremist
          • Mar 2007
          • 1858
          • Country: United Kingdom

          #5
          Baldy I can't thank you enough. In the one article I have just learned what was missing from my know how regarding the distributor issue I've got and at the same time how to sort the stuttering under load out

          Well time to go and have a play
          UrS6 Stroker + HTA3586 =

          Comment

          • newsh
            S2Forum Obsessed
            • Aug 2003
            • 16226
            • Country: United Kingdom

            #6
            My WR 10 valve has a simple (cut one track and bridge one) mod to the ECU and runs 1Bar of boost.
            If you get a misfire at around 3000 rpm it could be the air tempp sensor.
            Watch out for the intercooler blowing the end caps off if its a plastic one!

            S2 Coupe 3B Project


            Ur quattro restoration

            S2 Avant

            Boost is the new rock and roll!
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