Lost my spark

***Greg_S*** · 4 December 2007, 09:08

Dont want to teach you to suck eggs but, Have you checked all of the electrical connections again?

**newsh** · 4 December 2007, 09:21

Got to be the dizzy surely, are the marks lined up on the right revolution, comp on cyl 1? It has to be on the compression stroke and it has to be spot on.

Nj · 4 December 2007, 09:56

Have you had the dizzy out kev? I had this problem and it went on for an eternity. When I got teh dizzy out the plastic gear has broken apart. And I had to take the rocker cover off to check for pieces inside. luckily enough there were none but best to check.

**Mikes2** · 4 December 2007, 16:22

65535 is an ECU error

**Big_kev** · 4 December 2007, 17:18

Hi guys

I did have to take the dizzy out when i found a self tapper in the inlet manifold that jammed a valve slightly open (local garage). When i put the head back together etc i got her running but was a tooth out on the timing. I put the car through a couple of heat cycles while stationary and then tightened down headbolts again.

It was after this build and the correction of TDC that the car stopped sparking. I have checked all the obvious connections and had a mate do the same incase i missed something. I got a little more worried when the errors came up. I thought i might have been out 180 on the dizzy but checked and was OK. Dizzy cap seems to be fit correctly, electrical plug on the side is in. Is there an easy way to check the Coil lead. I tried a conductive test on my meter but no response, Poss due to to much resistance for my little meter.

As for the ECU error is there anyway i can clear that, and would that stop the car sparking?

All help appreciated.

Kevin

**4WheelDrifter** · 4 December 2007, 19:37

Hall sender fault is there too. That's in the distributor on the 3B.

**Big_kev** · 6 December 2007, 15:03

could you let me know what to do about the hall sender. Would that in itself prevent sparking?

Cheers

Kevin

**4WheelDrifter** · 6 December 2007, 18:34

A faulty hall sender (G40) will prevent the car from starting, yes.
It's not something silly like a loose connection? Sometimes the connectors can push out the back of the plug when they get old and brittle.

**Big_kev** · 7 December 2007, 09:17

Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter

A faulty hall sender (G40) will prevent the car from starting, yes.
It's not something silly like a loose connection? Sometimes the connectors can push out the back of the plug when they get old and brittle.

Is there a diagram that tells me where all the parts are, i am not clued up on this and don't know where to look for G40, G28 etc that i see on the forum.

Cheers
Kevin

**Mikes2** · 7 December 2007, 17:30

404 Not Found

http://s2-audi.co.uk/work_shop.htm

contains the 3B workshop manual

**4WheelDrifter** · 7 December 2007, 18:52

There's a lot of info on S2s out there, but you do have to look for it.

Have a look on s2central for a start.

Now there's no excuse for not knowing your N75 from your N80.

**Big_kev** · 8 December 2007, 11:17

Thanks guys. Will go looking for the G40 and G28 now.

Many thanks

Kevin

**Big_kev** · 9 December 2007, 13:17

guys

Had a look at the hal sender G40 and sure enough there was a broken wire. Have carried out the continuity check of the sensor after fixing this and all signals are being received at the ECU. Car still not starting but after clearing down the faults and turning the car over i am now getting the fault code 515 Hall Sender Mechanical failure. Does this mean i need a completely new distributor or is there some other check that i could carry out.

Cheers

kevin

**Mikes2** · 9 December 2007, 18:14

This sounds like the distributor alignment could be out slightly. It doesn't take much for it not to start.

Lost my spark

Lost my spark

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