MAF very close to turbo?

[Mark Halligan]

Sal,
Ive adapted a normal sump plug to take a JIC fitting and routed the tank drain back that way, Doug has done something similar but using the Fumoto drain valve instead of a sump plug. There are pics of these somewhere in the Catch Tank threads.
If you do away with all of the OEM breather pipes and do two straight routes to the tank from the side of the block and the cam cover (again described in another thread) you do get a lot of oil puked up into the tank, this was the main reason why I put the drain line back to the sump in, as I was forever emptying the thing out.
Just make sure that if you do drain oil from the tank back to the sump, that it enters below the oil level of the sump, otherwise crankcase pressure will also travel up this line too and it wont drain very well whilst the engine is running.

Cheers,

Mark

[Nick Psaltakis]

Just got the camera so this is my first pic of the fillter at the front. The car is not finished but just to get an idea:

[Nick Psaltakis]

another

[timucin]

Nick;
can you pls post some pictures from intake manifold entry; have the same manifold but i am not sure what is going where
thnx

*very nice car

[Nick Psaltakis]

The piece of metal holding the top of the headlight was modified ( the curved metal painted black) in order to fit the filter.Note that i tested it today, the sound of the filter is magic yet kept at reasonable levels. It breathes more easily, and the temps are kept very low both at the left side of the intercooler as well as the maf and the whole alloy tube from filter to maf, which has been covered by exhaust wrap tape. BUUUUT i couldn,t go up to 1.8 or 2.0 bar due to my faulty map. Note that the ambient temp today in crete aws 25 degrees celcius.

[Nick Psaltakis]

Timusin i just took a few pics today because i was p.....d off with the faulty MAP. BUt you can tell me exactly which part you want and i can take pictures of it and have it sent tommorow. For the time being i have this one:

[sal_s2]

Nick, was fitting the mtm intake manifold straightforward?
How much did it cost?

Thanks

[Nick Psaltakis]

Sal it was relatively easy if you are patient enough and able to take all the radiators out, that is main radiator, aircon radiator nad auxiliary rad.. You have to lengthen the cables for the sensors on the entrance of the intake which is not dificult if you have a small idea of soldering, but even if you get someone else to do it, it shouldn't take more than 30 to 45 minutes for the cables. Then you have to find the suitable water and air hoses since the old ones don't fit, which means a lot of search. It took me two to three days to finish it but most of the tie was spent trying to find all the nessesary hases and small parts rather than working on it. It costed it my around 1900 euros( including shipment to Crete). The difference it the temp. of the intake air is more than noticable! Which is very important in the climate we have here. I am told that it has a notible dif. on lag too, but i can't comment on it since i have changed my turbo as well so the comparison is impossible and also i have a faulty MAP sensor , so iwill let you know as soon as i fix it. But note that the air coming out or the intercooler travels only 40cm to the intake!
But again with 1900 euros you could get a bigger turbo and mapping so...it' a mess. all i know is since i bought the car and especially entered this forum my bank account is negative
Power is never enough though

[sal_s2]

Keep us posted

Thanks

[Doug_RS2]

It looks very nice but are you going to get enough air flow to the main radiator now? There doesn't look like much of a path for air to get there.

Might be worth keeping an eye on that especially in your climate.

[Mark Halligan]

Nick,

thanks for the pics and nice work, its looking good.

I wish I could afford that manifold right now .

Hope you get your MAP sensor sorted soon, thats exactly where I want to put my air filter.

Cheers,

Mark.

[Nick Psaltakis]

Doug
i have thought of that so what i have done is this: ihave replaced the original thermotat opening at 87 deg. with one opening lower at 80 deg. also i modified the auxiliary radiator, i actually kept only the frame and put new sells if i write it correct which are doble the thickness of the original. Also the valve or sensor controling the fan was modified to work manually also ( and automatically as it is now when the swich in off position)from inside the cabin when i drive in the city . Anyway today that i drove the car (even with a faulty MAP) in the city and in traffic the temp never got over 90 deg, so no problems with that. ( the auxiliary does a great job now!).
Of course there are alot of details to be finished
# Fit the rest of the samco hoses i received today
# keep everything tidy (cables hoses etc)
# Cryogenic kit installed ( spraying CO2 on to the intercooler but first passing through the intake hoses DEtails on http://www.designengineering.com
# wate injection re-installed
# new steering wheel
# apexi boost meter and pyrometer
AND ABOVE ALL THE MAP SENSOR
i WILL KEEP YOU POSTED THANKS FOR THE HELP AND INTEREST
MAYBE WE SHOULD ARRANGE A RS2 S2 GATHERING AND HOLIAYS IN CRETE THIS SUMMER