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I noticed that the exhaust ports are smoother then the inlets, is that because of the mixture of air/fuel to improve that?
Cees,
yes it is apparently better to have the inlets slightly rough for that reason, so I followed the Standard Abrasives instructions that said to leave the inlets slightly rough. The finish that I have on them now, was achieved because I started with the inlets and before I started on the exhausts I took the head and had the guides pressed out and the head beadblasted to take the carbon off of the ports to make it easier to work. The beadblasting gave the inlets a nice rough cast type of finish. I did not knife edge the divider in the inlets as I was told (I cant remember who by) that they would flow better if they were slightly rounded. I did knife edge the exhausts divider as well as taking out a lot more metal than I did in the inlets, and these were polished up along with the combustion chambers.
just received my polishing kit, a bit late on schedule but np;
everything is understood planning to finish this week
just one question to Mark;
did you use WD40 to help polishing?
just received my polishing kit, a bit late on schedule but np;
everything is understood planning to finish this week
just one question to Mark;
did you use WD40 to help polishing?
Timucin,
yes I did use WD40 to start with when using the porting/polishing kit. I then switched to an adjustable Dremel set at 25k rpm with polishing pads fitted and used metal polish to get the mirror shine.
papers say hi speed dremel is not good?
cause i was planning to get small dremel but after reading instructions i am looking for lower speed machine now
papers say hi speed dremel is not good?
cause i was planning to get small dremel but after reading instructions i am looking for lower speed machine now
Mark any comment on this?
Timucin,
thats right the dremel is no good for removing metal when shaping the ports as it does not have enough power/torque in its little motor for this. But I found it very good for polishing due to its smaller size and high speed and also for any fine hard to get at places especially near the valve seats, as you dont really want to hit them with a grinder, even if you plan to have them re-cut later.
I used a flexible drill attachment for all of the tough work when removing the metal with the porting kit, although these arent ideal, I broke one of these too.
Looks like you have been busy Mark, and looks like the results will be well worth it reading those links!
Did you buy a new head and port it or use your existing one? I am hoping that during the summer I will be able to get my head sorted with new valve stem oil seals etc and am toying with the idea of doing this myself. I *may* look into doing this too if its achieveable by a diy dunce like me.....
David,
I was very lucky to buy a head at a good price to work on (thanks Marco ) . This head will be going onto my new engine once its built hpoefully by June. I'll probably do the same to my current cylinder head when it comes out of the car (taking my time with it though ), and probably do a few things differently next time, based upon what I learnt doing this one and how it performs once its in the car, on the new engine......I'm quite interested in using solid lifters with CatCams possibly next time.
LOL;
i dont have a garage David;
i live in the city,sometimes even cant find place to park.my living room is the only place for the moment to do this stuff . Luckily i am not married yet and not planning in next 50 years..
i covered the floor with plastic hope dust wont go to seats but what ever my car is much more important then my seats
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