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If you are removing an exhaust manifold and installing a new one, you are better off removing the studs after you remove the manifold. Use a proper stud removal socket (they exist). Then replace with new (about a euro a stud and you need 16). Cut the ones that need to be shorter for an RS2 manifold (or Wagner EVO). If you don't do that, and try to go cheap, the last old stud you are tightening when installing the new manifold will break and you will have to start over again.
Don't ask how I know.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Got any pictures of the stud removal socket?
Already have 16 RS2 studs Just considering what to do, anyways does it help to heat om the studs when removing them?
You do know that only 4 of the studs are different (shorter) than the OE ABY, AAN and 3B EM manifold studs, right?
Well ETKA tells me that you need 16 studs that are M8x35 for the 3B, ABY, AAN and that you need 16 studs for the RS2 that are M8x27.
So what you are saying is wrong according to ETKA, it does not mention about two size different studs.
Okay, you got me. I had to check with my favorite red-headed parts girl, Kate, and she told me that the exhaust manifold studs for the AAN (ABY and 3B) are N 901 889 02 (M8x35) whereas the RS2 exhaust manifold studs are N 906 486 01 (M8x27). We (in North America) never got the RS2 so we can't order RS2 parts. What we do is replace the exhaust studs with new M8x35s but trim 3 or 4 of them down to 27 (or as needed to get the clearance). Kate says the reference figure is 103-54 for both cars.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
I had 2 snap when I did mine, if they're not broken or badly corroded then I'd be tempted to leave them unless you've got the time and resources to remove the snapped ones. Unfortunately one of mine was beyond repair after I snapped aremoval tool in it, so I left it
Cheers'en, AndyC
1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss
Jonas Urs4boy is right, you only need 4 of the studs shorter not all of them.
You wouldn't want them all short anyway as then you couldn't use the manifold washers underneath the nuts which expand / contract under the manifold heat cycling.
Jonas Urs4boy is right, you only need 4 of the studs shorter not all of them.
You wouldn't want them all short anyway as then you couldn't use the manifold washers underneath the nuts which expand / contract under the manifold heat cycling.
Hi Jamo,
I dont really understand this, since ETKA says you need 16 of the short studs. This means that an RS2 will be fitted with 16 of the short studs. Anyways decided not to change the studs since they looked fine.
Your taking ETKA to literal the RS2 uses 16 of the shorter studs however when going from ABY to RS2 EM you only actually need to use 4 shorter studs not all 16
Anyways decided not to change the studs since they looked fine.
Wow. Fantastic to meet somebody with X-ray vision who can look through metal and decide that the part won't break under the stress of retorquing. Amazing talent.
Oh, and perhaps you can use your laser vision to burn off the ends of the four studs that need to be shortened in order to fit the RS2 EM:
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