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1. Broken.
2. Age, abuse, vandalism, enjoyment, ...
3. You reach for the credit card or cheque book.
Ck.
Shocked, exhausted, hosed, bushed, dumped, chipped, mounted, filtered, gauged, packed, intermittantly wiped and braked. I mean broken. Now, about the car...
I've had my whole engine in bits and I don't recognise that part
Mind, I doubt it looked like that when it was originally fitted
Is it threaded at one end?
Q:
1: What's this?
2: What can make it look like it does?
3: What happen when it looks like that?
A:
1. It's a one-way valve that sits in the oil gallery between the main gallery and the head. It has two functions: 1. To restrict / meter the amount of oil that gets to the head. 2. It keeps the oil in the head after the engine has shut down. By doing so the lifters will not drain and doesn't "tick" when the engine fires again. If you have an engine that ticks at startup this valve could be the reason.
2. I'm using a custom main stud kit, and the studs where 1-2mm too long. One of the studs hit the valve and broke it like you see in the picture.
3. This blocked the oil too the head and damaged the head and cams when the engine was fired. Normally you should have seen the lack of pressure because the org. oil pressure gauge and warning system would have shown 0 because they get the pressure after the valve, but I used a mechanical oil gauge that got pressure from the turbo oil feed, and that's before the valve
If is located behind one of the two oilpressure switches. If you remove the switch you will see a thread adapter. Remove this and use a flashlight into the canal and you can see the valve. The valve is threaded and you have to use a torx? (12 "tacs") key to take it out. The valve is ~25mm long and ~10mm in diameter.
It's an inexpensive part and should be changed if you take the engine apart.
If is located behind one of the two oilpressure switches. If you remove the switch you will see a thread adapter. Remove this and use a flashlight into the canal and you can see the valve. The valve is threaded and you have to use a torx? (12 "tacs") key to take it out. The valve is ~25mm long and ~10mm in diameter.
It's an inexpensive part and should be changed if you take the engine apart.
A very good info. The same is relevant to V6 engines where this tiny gizmo can cause oil underpressure if worn out. Engines prior to 94 have a less durable valve than later ones.
Gabor
96 ABY coupe full except sunroof. With Porsche big red brakes, remapped ECU, xenon lights, RS2 MAF
Great info - people had said there must be a return valve somewhere but after I took my head and bblock off I never noticed one and never thought our car had one - I don't even think the engine manual shows this - I'll change it anyway.
Then you couldn't see it coming because you fitted and alternative gauge
And now every one want's a new one
Erm, I think we might have operator trouble - I don't like to be rude on one of my very few posts but it seemed pretty obvious to me
It broke because I made my self a main bearing girdle with custom main bearing studs that was 1-2mm too long. One of the studs will hit the valve if the stud is too long
I had trouble with the org gauge/sender unit before starting up. The needle where all over the place when I tried to start, and because of this I fitted a temporary mechanical one just to be safe.
What was obvious to You It was impossible to see that this valve was broken and my mechanical gauge showed 5bar oil pressure. How could it be obvious that there was something wrong?
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