7A Diagnostic Code Reader that Works!

[S2central.net]

Oh, and a MAP late 80q v6.

Please explain that one...

[Flat on my back]

.

For MAF read MAP...has a vacum tube going to the ecu...in my hand as i type this, need a piccy?

[S2central.net]

Ohh right.... that must a late one - off a cabby or A4 - could be a nice way to go without MAF restrictions. What numbers , dates on it - can you post a piccy ?

Same four multipin connector affair ?

[S2central.net]

Just checked other manuals here... The 2.6 (two six) liter V6 has MPFI system which uses a MAP sensor instead of MAF. Drat !

All schematics for AAH variants show the MAF - so I'm not insane yet....

[S2central.net]

Getting back to the original point of this thread... I took a punt on the T55e version of this chinese code reader (same as T45 originally menioned but with additional features) to try on the old V6Q. It did not talk to the engine ECU, though it did talk to the HVAC controller - which is not at all what I expected... It only uses K-wire.

I tried it on the S2 and it worked there fine - and also on the A6AR so its not a bad wee device. Nicely portable compared to lugging a laptop around but the functionality is MUCH less that VAGCOM. I might send it back for a refund... but then its a good general purpose OBD2 code reader so maybe useful.

Just realised I didn't try this T55e with engine running - worth a rattle.

[EspenW]

It is a very good idea to have one of these as a part of the car's permanent toolkit.
I have VAGCOM, but I have a code reader in the car(s) as well. Nice to have in case the car starts to act funky out on the road. For 1.8T's they are super handy when you need to find out which coil just blew (carry spares..)
Cool way to impress attractive young ladies when their VAG cars break down out on the road too

[S2central.net]

Oh if its a chick magnet then I'll keep it

[etsola]

I know this post is really old ... But I'll give it a try.
I have a early build 90CQ - 1990 pre-march as the Bentley refers to them.
I'm having issues with my car which started as it wouldn't catch on after lest say ¼ of the throttle.
Checked a bunch of things - and now won't start anymore.

Was trying the output mode of the jumper thing - it skips completely the Injectors part !?!?!
But injectors atomise fine (well as far as I can tell with my eyes) - at least there's gaz going through them.

I was hearing about that fuse in the fuel pump relay ... Mine has a holder - but I do have the older Hitachi ECU with only 2 connectors.

Will I be able to put the ECU in basic mode still ??

I's like to try it to see if it suddenly starts working.

Could narrow the issue.

Also, code check gives me nada - 4444 - Though I had disconnected the battery to put the bulb in the cluster for the check engine light - Since then the car hasn't run - so I guess even if would've had codes - now there gone ?

So, in resumé, can I put the ECU in basic mode with the fuse in the fuel pump relay ? I do have the tubular 5-1 bag of snakes exhaust manifold - Only 2 connectors on the ECU - ISV valve on the side of the Air box, etc...

Any help would be grateful - 3rd week-end on this before I start changing parts one by one

[mcandmar]

You can, but i dont see it doing anything for a no start scenario. Go back to basics and check for fuel pump and ignition and work from there. With ignition on does the fuel pump run for a few seconds? Then pull a HT lead and plug a spark plug into it grounding the body to the intake manifold, then crank the engine and see if you have a spark.

[etsola]

Well it would help in the sense that it would bypass some readings from some of the sensors :

Fix timing at 12 degrees (probably would bypass knock sensors readings)
Fix temperature at 80 degrees C (doesn't uses the readings from the temp sensors anymore)
Doesn't use O2 sensor (if for some odd reason it makes think the ECU that it needs to send more gas)
Etc ...

If it works in basic mode and doesn't without it - It should point me in a direction of the sensors that were actually bypassed.
If it doesn't in basic mode - Points in directions where those sensors aren't in cause.

Or my logic isn't good.

Also, already checked fuel pump relay with output mode from the jumpers. Hearing the pump at ignition on as well as while cranking also (as I said I hear the flow of gaz through the FPR and see it atomized after the injectors while I pulled the rail a bit).

Spark is there as I plugged all plug into spark plug cables, made their threads touch the intake for ground and cranked the engine. All of them did a nice blue flick in sequence.

Interior of distributor cap was nice (not top notch but ok) and since spark seem to be good.

So I'm a little past the basics (fuel filter checked, vacuum leaks checks, grounds checked - the ones I could see before I start dismantling things) - TPS readings checked - bypassed Temp sensor with another one checked (still don't work) ... etc, etc...

My theory is that, either the timing is off since the readings to the ECU is off - Way off that it doesn't even ignite the fuel/air mixture. OR the ECU or MPI control units are fried... Then my question is this, would a fried ECU or MPI unit generate a code ?

Basically, how would I know the ECU is in basic modem exactly ? And if I can, how do I exactly do this ? What I did is put the fuse in the fuel pump relay, put the jumper and tried to start the car - it wouldn't.

Why is the Output mode fault check skipping the Injectors part ? (did it previously and was going through it)

Thanks for the reply on this old post btw.

I'll probably start another since I'm basically hijacking this one right now

[UrS4boy]

I don't know if you have this or have seen it but if not, you will want to download this 71 page, 53 Mb 7A pdf (hope you have high speed and bandwidth):

http://spokanister.net/Docs/Audi/Audi%20Coupe%20Quattro%2020V%20Service%20Training.pdf

[etsola]

Holy Crap !! This is 10 times better than the Bentley !!! Hadn't had that ! Thanks !!