I've held off posting on this as I've spent an inordinate amount of time using the search function cos this issue seems to get at all of us at some point. I've read literally hundreds of posts.
Symptoms.
Intermittent engine cut out, ie a total momentary engine cut rather than an odd cylinder missfire. At first I had no boost issues after each episode. Then the engine decided to cut out completely, just died as if I'd switched it off. No stuttering like you'd get with fuel starvation.
Sometimes the car if left for only 5 mins or even 5 days, would absolutely refuse to start. Turn off and retry saw it start no problem.
Last two times it's did this it's left the boost now pegged at 0.4bar max at all times.
No fault codes..............ever. Output tests confirm the function of all covered parts, injectors click away, the WGFV is clicking away like mad, same for the ISV and carbon canister solenoid.
After reading posts and the motronic manuals and my bro's experience with a similar issue, I initially suspected Hall sender. He had had momentary engine cuts, engine cutting out completely, non starts and boost pegged at 0.4bar. Hall sender change cured this.
So far I've replaced the following;
1/ Hall sender (G40) - new,
2/ Engine speed sender (G28) - new,
3/ Crank position sender (G4) - new,
4/ Fuel pump - new,
5/ Fuel pump relay - new,
6/ WGFV - new (even though old one seems fine)
7/ F5DP0R plugs x 5 - new
8/ Both POS's swapped for my spare new ones (although I seriously doubted it'd be these two anyway)
9/ My spare set of x5 OEM coils (again didn't think it's be these)
10/ MAF swapped to a known good working one (my bro's) and also used mine on his car, fine too.
11/ My MTM chips removed and OEM chips put back in,
12/ My spare known good standard ABY ECU ("non imo" if that makes a difference, my ECU is an immo version) .
13/ Altitude sensor - new (vag-com wasn't showing a problem with it while looking at it's value with the engine running).
I've unplugged the MFTS and this makes no bleedin difference at all. Ordered a new one to be on the safe side anyway. Water temp fine, fan cuts in at just over 90°C and I've never had an autocheck warning of an overheat situation.
ZERO boost leaks, I'd assume I'd need a bloody major boost leak to be pegged at 0.4bar at all times. I've a set of bungs and the system holds pressure well. No audible sounds of air leaking (car has good condition hoses and vacuum lines and has the silicone reducer hose on the intercooler to crossmember instead of the O-ring (which was fine anyway, took me 10 minutes of twisting and pulling to get that apart)
Apart from the 0.4abr boost limit, the car has not cut out again, idles and drives very well but is still pegged at 0.4bar.
It's just not on being blown away by a bloody 2.0TDi Golf
Last thought, knock sensors????? No codes pulled with these and they are covered under diagnostics. although saying that, the damn Hall sender is and it never started crying to the ECU either.
I did notice a few times the car seemed to pulse a little under high boost and heavy load in a low gear and always put that down to crap 95ron petrol I had in at the time.
It's getting expensive now, worth buying two new knock sensors? If so, part number for an ABY as "KATE" is a little unclear with regards to one of them.
Sorry for the long winded post, but I believe it's best to give as much info as possible rather than the normal "Car got no boost..help"
TIA,
Jase..
Symptoms.
Intermittent engine cut out, ie a total momentary engine cut rather than an odd cylinder missfire. At first I had no boost issues after each episode. Then the engine decided to cut out completely, just died as if I'd switched it off. No stuttering like you'd get with fuel starvation.
Sometimes the car if left for only 5 mins or even 5 days, would absolutely refuse to start. Turn off and retry saw it start no problem.
Last two times it's did this it's left the boost now pegged at 0.4bar max at all times.
No fault codes..............ever. Output tests confirm the function of all covered parts, injectors click away, the WGFV is clicking away like mad, same for the ISV and carbon canister solenoid.
After reading posts and the motronic manuals and my bro's experience with a similar issue, I initially suspected Hall sender. He had had momentary engine cuts, engine cutting out completely, non starts and boost pegged at 0.4bar. Hall sender change cured this.
So far I've replaced the following;
1/ Hall sender (G40) - new,
2/ Engine speed sender (G28) - new,
3/ Crank position sender (G4) - new,
4/ Fuel pump - new,
5/ Fuel pump relay - new,
6/ WGFV - new (even though old one seems fine)
7/ F5DP0R plugs x 5 - new
8/ Both POS's swapped for my spare new ones (although I seriously doubted it'd be these two anyway)
9/ My spare set of x5 OEM coils (again didn't think it's be these)
10/ MAF swapped to a known good working one (my bro's) and also used mine on his car, fine too.
11/ My MTM chips removed and OEM chips put back in,
12/ My spare known good standard ABY ECU ("non imo" if that makes a difference, my ECU is an immo version) .
13/ Altitude sensor - new (vag-com wasn't showing a problem with it while looking at it's value with the engine running).
I've unplugged the MFTS and this makes no bleedin difference at all. Ordered a new one to be on the safe side anyway. Water temp fine, fan cuts in at just over 90°C and I've never had an autocheck warning of an overheat situation.
ZERO boost leaks, I'd assume I'd need a bloody major boost leak to be pegged at 0.4bar at all times. I've a set of bungs and the system holds pressure well. No audible sounds of air leaking (car has good condition hoses and vacuum lines and has the silicone reducer hose on the intercooler to crossmember instead of the O-ring (which was fine anyway, took me 10 minutes of twisting and pulling to get that apart)
Apart from the 0.4abr boost limit, the car has not cut out again, idles and drives very well but is still pegged at 0.4bar.
It's just not on being blown away by a bloody 2.0TDi Golf
Last thought, knock sensors????? No codes pulled with these and they are covered under diagnostics. although saying that, the damn Hall sender is and it never started crying to the ECU either.
I did notice a few times the car seemed to pulse a little under high boost and heavy load in a low gear and always put that down to crap 95ron petrol I had in at the time.
It's getting expensive now, worth buying two new knock sensors? If so, part number for an ABY as "KATE" is a little unclear with regards to one of them.
Sorry for the long winded post, but I believe it's best to give as much info as possible rather than the normal "Car got no boost..help"
TIA,
Jase..
)
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