Coupe not starting

[lagz33]

Fitted another metering head to try and resolve an idle issue in where revs would keep dropping till stall when coasting up to lights.

Turns out that the one that was on there had the little hole for adjustments tampered with, stuck the new metering head on ran like a treat although a few attempts to start from cold.

Just went to my car and it will not stay on, it starts for a second is lumpy as hell and revs just drop and die.

Have replaced lambda sensor so that is not the issue, I am thinking it could be my idle regulator.

Any suggestions pease, keep in mind im not a wizard with cars so please in basic terms

[lagz33]

Anybody please, anything?

This is my only car and am screwed without it

[A80Avant]

you need to clean the idle valve and also check the temp sensor at the back of the block. if you are having rich mixture as you are describing it,it could be stuck and read low temp all the time, thus making the mixture too rich.

then while cleaning the idle valve with a bit of WD40, or carb cleaner, you may want to do the same with the MAF as well

[lagz33]

Im looking on autodata cos im such an idiot.
Is the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) the same as the Volume Airflow Sensor (VAF)

And the Idle Valve is the IAC? Idle Air Control

[A80Avant]

IAC is correct

Mass air flow is different than VAF. VAF was used in k-jetronic engines.

[lagz33]

So i should chuck sum wd40 in the IAC?
Where is the MAF, I have been told before but i forgot.

Sorry to be a pain, my wheels are my legs

[s2_bo]

Maf is just after the airbox, be careful when you clean it though as its quite fragile inside. Best thing is to soak it in IPA over night and do the same with the ISV.
Also check the connectors. And check that you havent got any of the hoses from the turbo to the inlet manifold disconnected or badly leaking. If airflow is disturbed after the MAF has measured it then your car will stall.

First thing to do is unplug the MAF and start the car.
If it starts and idles then it narrows the list of possible problems down the list a bit.

Can you describe what you did originally to fix the idle? Not sure what you are referring to with metering head.

There is a lot of things that can course what your experiencing to happen so the more you explain what you have done to the car or how it came about the better.

[lagz33]

Ok first off it's not an s2, it's an ACE coupe, I have changed the thng that distributed the petrol what I thought was called metering head. I've got the idle control valve, do I just spray wd40 into this? I'm still baffled as to where the maf is. It actually starts now have driven it around and it only wants to idle at 20000 revs. Also the metering head is leaking petrol from one of the banjo bolts which I need to look at

[K Simmonds]

The ACE is the 16 valve motor, right?? First off sort out that leaking fuel banjo, petrol vapour and hot exhausts/engine are not a good mix. Don't use WD40 on the idle valve, use carb cleaner, WD40 leaves a residue where as carb cleaner won't. Sounds like this is your problem though especially as it's now ticking over at 2k.

The 16 valve motor does not have a MAF, the fuel metering head is the equivalent of a MAF, don't poke about in side the metering head their very sensitive and easy to buger up.

Finally is your ignition circuit in good nick, ie plugs and leads ect, a fault here could be causing your problems so check your distributor cap and rotor arm and if in doubt about the plugs/leads replace them or borrow some know good ones to eliminate them.

Hope you get it sorted

[lagz33]

Just sorted the banjo bolt leaks as there was more than 1 lol.
Need to buy some carb spray so havent cleaned the idle control valve yet, seems to idle fine but engine is warm still.

Only thing that i have ever changed ignition circuit wise is the plugs

Any other suggestions are welcome.

To verify this is how its went:

Erratic idle which stalled alot when coasting up to lights.
Replaced lambda, no difference.
Replaced Metering Head, now does not stall but idles rough and erratic as well as sometimes dying as soon as it starts.
Replaced washers on banjo bolts.


OH AND THANKS SIMMONDS

[K Simmonds]

No worries.

Replacing the Lambda sensor is a good move anyway as they have a limited life span. As well as cleaning the idle valve its well worth checking all the vacuum pipes as even a small air leak will cause exactly the symptoms you describe. And just a thought, but have you replaced the fuel filter? Their not expensive and need changing every 30k or so.

[lagz33]

No i havent done the fuel filter, am i right in thinking its at next to the metering head or is it near the fuel pump?

[K Simmonds]

Hmmm, can't remember where the fuel filter is on ACE coupes, but it's either near the metering head or the fuel tank.

[lagz33]

Cleaned the idle air control valve with carb cleaner, doesnt hang around at 20000 anymore but not where it should in between both, but it varies alot.
Dont know what else to do, im on a very tight budget atm. But I need this to drive to work :S

[S2central.net]

Is the timing OK ?

Do you know how to check it ?

If you aren't experienced in this stuff - take it to a local Bosch specialist - somewhere with one or two old guys who have decent history and see what they can find in a 'healthcheck' over an hour - you want a report of what needs fixing - perhaps with a quotation as well so they can see a decent job coming their way. Most official Bosch agents are good guys - they don't want to lose that label so generally provide good service.

It might be something like an air leak, timing skewed off or something else stupid.