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Do hairlines cracks in the top of radiators look like this (see picture if it don't appear below):
Only reason I ask is that I have a hairline crack in the top of my rad... oh. I think it's obvious
Anyone have a part number from euro car parts or german swedish? My Aux rad is blocked off so I think the metal capped one from ECP will do the trick, won't it? Big job? Pain in the ***?
Can anyone suggest a bodge to keep me going, aside from filling the overflow tank up? It's needing filling once a week, dropping to min from full, so it's not THAT bad, but it'll probably get worse now I said that.
Also, anyone know where I can find the engine number on my car. Adrian Flux want to know EVERYTHING. Rassen frassen etc.
PJ
Yep, thats exactly how mine looked, if your nifty with your fingers the resin from body filler works a treat, also it is possible to have it plastic welded, as i did (for all the good it done seem as though it blew up a few weeks later by blowing the top nozzle off )
Graham
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein
Nissens radiators are from Sweden IIRC. They have (or atleast had) two models, one with the aux rad output and one without. In my opinion the quality is just fine and after you compare Nissens' price tag to original the decision should be easy
Mine had similar over tightening type crack in the bleeder area as in the picture above. My friend changed only the top end of the rad from an extra one that had core damage. So it's possible to do that also. Of course time and patience is needed.
If in doubt, change your coolant tank caps to ensure the right pressure in the system. They're cheap.
Trying some 'JB Weld' from Halfords, as recommended by a friend. Reminds me of 'liquid metal' I used on my mini back in the days of yore, when Suzuki vitaras were but a twinkle in every hairdressers eye, and the XR3i was the tea leaves favourite (so, going back a while then.) This stuff reckons to withstand 4000 psi and 300 deg c, so seems pretty good, and worth a try if it saves me £100. (The car budget is all gone now, back to saving for my projector )
Letting it set overnight, plus got another fibre washer to put on the drain bolt, as the old one had disintegrated over 10 years. Fingers crossed...
the engine code are at the left side at the engine,middle on the block,right at top of the block,under the top.it may be VERY diff to see,because all the tubes and stuffs in the room......8-(
Looks like this is a common problem... my rad has cracked in exactly the same place! Have tried various patch ups with little or no success. Will try 'jb weld' tomorrow, if that doesn't work i will relent and buy a new rad!
Looks like this is a common problem... my rad has cracked in exactly the same place! Have tried various patch ups with little or no success. Will try 'jb weld' tomorrow, if that doesn't work i will relent and buy a new rad!
Might as well buy a new rad m8, it'll save you the hassle. Mind you, you'll use the hassle up on another job later on!
Looks like this is a common problem... my rad has cracked in exactly the same place! Have tried various patch ups with little or no success. Will try 'jb weld' tomorrow, if that doesn't work i will relent and buy a new rad!
Sheepish - get a new fibre washer, screw the plug in so the crack opens, then put the JB weld on. If you put the JB weld on then put the plug in, it will crack again. BTDT.
Have bought a new rad anyway. The 'being arsed to fit it' problem has reared its head though, whilst the bodge is working. Will get round to it.
@Caterpiller: If you're refering to S2 engine number, the location you mentioned is blank, only used on non S cars. S2 / RS2 numbers are on cylinder head, above EM at front of car
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