3B conrod bearing update?

[nostrixoxide]

Auditude,

I don't think it would be wise to replace the rings if you do not plan to resurface the cylinder walls. The reason being "most engine rebuilders" put a 60 degree cross hatch pattern (x) on the cylinder walls to help the rings break in & seal properly against the cylinder walls.

If you do decide to replace the rings, you can still do the repair inside the engine compartment if you want to. Your just gonna need one of these. http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi10.html

[audiman]

Yeah thats correct. During my very recent rebuild, i replaced the rings as the bores were still in almost new condition (after 156k miles!). I did have the block honed, which is a must.

[auditude]

On the stock rods you do dont need to measure stretch. You dont need to replace anything except the bearings, maybe an ideal time to replace piston rings if its high mileage???? as the head is off

The rod bolts are listed as "always replace" due to the "angle torque" method of securing them, so I'm going to be getting some new ones. They may need to be pressed in by a machine shop, I don't know.

However, I'm wondering about the nuts. Can I reuse them or should I get new ones? Maybe I shouldn't be asking here if the info is different than what the parts catalogs are saying?

[Billman]

Sorry to bring up such an old Thread but i have some questions:

I plan to use Diesel Crank and Block with Longer rods (158mm) and bigger piston pin (23mm). Should i Use the Stock Diesel main bearings for the Crank or the Rs2 ones?

Should i use RS2 big end bearings or Sputter (hardened) upper and lower big end bearings (the RS2 has hardened upper and normal lower).

What about the Small end Bearing ? Is it coming with the SPM Conrods, will it suplyied by the piston manufacturer?

Should i change Main (crank) studs?? Original Diesel, RS2 or something else?

Any part numbers for all the above?? Either Audi or other ones ( Glyco maybe??)!

Thanks for the Help