Major head ache - suggestions needed

[HPmuirt]

I hope these are ok?

Interesting. Are those ARP washers? If so it looks like they have finally increased the size to 22mm.

Took them long enough looking at the age of some of the threads on the subject

Cheers n

Si

[Rusty]

Check, the bearings if it's a high miler, seems silly not to replace them if it's all in bits and they' a little worn as you use your car to the full!

Also,

RS2 water pump and belt
New lower toothed pulley, in case the key is cracked
Shame it wasn't compression tested to see if the rings are OK

Sure there are other things that can be done.

With the ARP head studs, you'll need to check them periodically. I've used to stock washers and haven't checked them yet, they weren't that much different.

Tightening must be done with the supplied moly slip, I used 25 / 45 / 65 ftlbs, with other lubricants the torque is different.

The torque must be checked after a heat cycle or two.

HTH

[Flat on my back]

I hope these are ok?

One on the right is APR (19mm OD), about 1.5mm smaller in OD than the Audi part...not seen a SQ washer to compare.

[Jamo]

SQ Washer http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpos...5&postcount=19

[MidnightBlueS2]

I'd have a really close look at the steering rack and the state of the rubber on it while it's really accessible....

[GazzaG60]

change all you can afford is my advice.

id do

water pump
oil pump
belts
tensioners
check cam pulley for stress and crank too.
rods, bearings, use good lube.
arp UNDERCUT head bolts.
soak lifters in oil for a clean.
ring compressor

cheapest is to use original rings. make sure they are removed carefully and refitted in same way. remember to 90 degree the gaps.

track density mounts, solid subframe bushes.

[HPmuirt]

Thanks guys.

So far I have: -
Belts and tensioner will all be changed, along with the PS pump.
Water pump is fairly new so I wasn't gonna bother
OEM head bolts already ordered and received
Short water hoses renewed recently due to water leak
New SQ (Rusty) snub mount

Parts that still need to be sourced: -
Solid subframe bushes - Who is doing the best (if there is such a thing) or the cheapest at the moment?
Engine mounts - same question - who and what is recommended?

I cannot afford the rods right now so I will leave the bearings. As for the rings, well they held pressure during the changing of the valve stem oil sleaves and the bores still have beautiful honing marks so fingers crossed.

Cheers n

Si

[Rusty]

OEM head bolts aren't a bad thing for a stock engine, they're fit and forget, unlike the ARP items. When you go for more power (gawd help us) you can fit the some ARPs then.

Contact Bambridge for mounts, he's got a selection of parts to fit.

You should really like the upgraded snub mount, check the bush is in good fettle before fitting.

[Phil Payne]

Even if the water pump is pretty new - I'd still change it to set a level benchmark. It's a pretty cheap component.

On the bottom end - whenever I have access I always Plastigage #3 big end. I've found it's usually the first to go if there's a major oil loss event and when measuring engines it's usually the first to show wear. IMO a good Plastigage result on #3 big end /generally/ means the rest of the shells will be OK.

You only need a couple of inches of Plastigage. If you can't find any, drop me a snail address.

[Jamo]

OEM head bolts aren't a bad thing for a stock engine, they're fit and forget, unlike the ARP items. When you go for more power (gawd help us) you can fit the some ARPs then.

Contact Bambridge for mounts, he's got a selection of parts to fit.

You should really like the upgraded snub mount, check the bush is in good fettle before fitting.

ARP's are fit and forget, you only have to retorque them once after a heat cycle of the engine which the mechanic should do.

OEM's are false economy here as Simon is playing on getting rods done so the head is coming off again.

[HPmuirt]

ARP's are fit and forget, you only have to retorque them once after a heat cycle of the engine which the mechanic should do.

OEM's are false economy here as Simon is playing on getting rods done so the head is coming off again.

True, just a damn shame my mates parts manager has been on the ball for the first time. I will see if he can return them and I'll go ARP anyway as Aelred has some for me.

I assume ABY and ADU head bolts are the same? If so, when people chip their RS2 turbos I assume that the OEM bolts can take the extra load do do folks always go ARP for chipped RS2?

Thanks for the other info guys, I'll check no. bearing and contact Bambridge for the sub frame mounts. Who does the engine mounts?

Cheers n

Si

[GazzaG60]

id go arp too. non stretch, thats fire and forget.

[HPmuirt]

id go arp too. non stretch, thats fire and forget.

Just spoke to the parts manager and he said he couldn't return them as they are already on the car (Sorry Aelred).

It's funny, you would think I would be happy as it means my head is back and the broken EM stud has been successfully removed but I am kinda disapointed as I was set on going the ARP route - Oh well.

Cheers n

Si

[Jamo]

What's done is done so too speak

[Phil Payne]

ADU and ABY both list 034 103 385C.