That would be the problem then!

[Paulgo]

yep, no doubt for the reaason the car wont start - my dizzy indeed just a tad foobarred!

Finally grasped the nettle and got the intake manifold off yesterday. Relatively straightforward but extremely tricky to get a some of the bolts. Right t**ts some of them! In the end I used a 1/4" 6mm socket driver with a long 250mm 1/4" extention bar that would go through the access holes in the manifold, and an adpator to let me use a 3/8th breaker bar on the end







Worst bit of the entire job was when I thought I had rounded off one of the middle lower bolts, the one right beside the main hose to the rad and tight behind the water rail. Worst of the lot to get at. I couldnt get a straight enough access and hadnt got the driver sufficiently in.

Had a re-think, managed to move head of the jubillee clip out of the way, got the socket in properly and it finally cracked off. Not a nice 5 minutes tho!!

Manged to line up the timing marks and attacked the ant tamper plate with a screwdriver until I managed to peel it sufficienty out of the way so that I could get at the 13mm bolt. Quite thin metal which helps. Little bit of twisting and the dizzy is out!

Next up I need the cam cover off to get at all the shards of old gear that are in there. Also need to sort the rotor arm as the 3b tip is noticably narrower than the 7a unti I had to put in as a replacement



Think I might just file the sides to get the tip the same size.

Paul

[UrS4boy]

Two things:

1. They do make long T-bar Allen head wrenches that are "designed" to go through the holes in the intake manifold to make that job a bit easier:



2. Be very careful using that 7A rotor. As you know, one of the problems with the 3B engine is spark jump when the spark from the coil jumps to the wrong cylinder instead of the intended cylinder. This can have disasterous results. Often the problem is tracked down to have been caused by using the wrong wide-headed rotor instead of the proper narrow-headed 3B rotor (at least this is what I understand - others can correct me if I am wrong).

Doesn't somebody make a brass replacement distributor gear?

[istoo]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-COUPE-S2-...item45f3d85e38
was looking at this just last night...

[AndyP]

The correct rotor arm is NLA from Bosch and if you go to Audi you will get the wrong one. Luckily it is still available from Toyota, do a search on here, there is a thread with the Toyota part number on.

[Paulgo]

I'm lucky in that the dizzy I have to go on already has a metal gear - altho I have had one of those gears by quattro rob for a while. Before the dizzy completely packed in I had always meant to replace it just cos it was so noisey. There's barely any play at all in the shaft end to end on this one, about half a mil where there must about 2/3mm in the old one!

Only problem is, as rightly pointed out, the 7a rotor tip is too wide. I think I can probably carefully file the sides down to the right width as from what I've read getting hold of the proper arm for the 3b can be a bit of a nightmare!

cheers guys

Paul

[mcandmar]

Dumb question, can you not undo the screw and change the rotors over?

[UrS4boy]

Here is the 3B rotor thread with Bosch and Toyota PNs

The correct rotor arm is NLA from Bosch and if you go to Audi you will get the wrong one. Luckily it is still available from Toyota, do a search on here, there is a thread with the Toyota part number on.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21123&highlight=3b+rotor+arm+toyota

[Paulgo]

Thanks mate -that was the post i was thinking of, so saved me digging it out

better view of the 7a (left) and 3b (right) rotor tips compared



Might see if I can get new one from somewhere tho as it would be good to have a new one on - dont want to go to all this trouble again in a hurry!!

cheers

Paul

[Jamo]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29457

[Acidburn]

Glad you found the problem, i'm surprised you took everything off the engine to get this out, I did mine in place just used a long screwdriver down thru the gap between the fuel rail and rocker cover on the tamper cover and tapped it out the way. Still whilst you're there you can check the rest of that side of the engine, its worth checking the pcv system whilst you're there.

[Paulgo]

Cheers for the link Jamo

i'm surprised you took everything off the engine to get this out,

To be honest I wasnt sure where or exactly what the tamper plate was and how best to get at it - knowing what I do now I might well have managed it as you say, but I guess that's how you learn! All in all I feel more confident with the IM off! This is probably the biggest job I've attempted on my own so confidence is quite important here!! And there's a chance to clean all the sh*ite out and look for other things to renew down there, as I'm taking my time with this. Annoyingly I did all the breather pipes a year or so ago - what a doddle it would be now! Have spotted a missing jubille clip on one of the joints tho so will replace that for starters!

[Acidburn]

whilst its off, speak to allisport about chopping and reversing your im, last time I enquired it was £100 to do it and would improve spool up.

I was also helped in mine by s2dude modding the battery tray so I could get my arm down for access.

[Paulgo]

Dizzy is back in - hopefully in the right position! In the end I decided to file down the 7a rotor, which seems to have worked pretty well. Replacement dizzy is on the top in the pic below.



Putting the dizzy back in seems to have gone a lot smoother that I thought it might.



After making sure everything was at TDC I marked the position of the the old dizzy against the block (as you can see in the photo) before removing it. I transfered that mark on to the replacement and it lines up well. Few trial and errors, twisting the rotor arm until it looked to be in the right place then was lined up against the timing mark on the dizzy body. At this point the two marks on the body of the dizzy and the block also lined up, so hopefully this is ok! As far as I can tell the arm is pointing to cylinder 1 in the dizzy cap. Will check this all again before I finally tighten everything up tho.



Been taking my time this, taking the opportunity to sort of few jobs and niggles Ive either not been able to get at very easily, or can sort because of what I've ended up taking off. Fuel has had a spray job as it really was an eye sore and I cleaned a lot of muck up to!

Not exactly sure what to do now in so far as testing it. I suppose I just have to put the IM and all the other stuff back on and hope for the best!

[goodall]

whilst its off, speak to allisport about chopping and reversing your im, last time I enquired it was £100 to do it and would improve spool up.

I was also helped in mine by s2dude modding the battery tray so I could get my arm down for access.

£100 sounds kinda dear, had a local welder/wheel repairer assemble a whole manifold I'd designed and cut the pieces of for welding for just £15

[newsh]

You want the static timing to be absolutely spot on or you can get a weird misfire at WOT.. BTDT.

Stick the car in gear and roll it back behind the marks then carefully roll it forward till the 0 mark on the flywheel is spot on. Then check the dizzy.

I'd definitely use a new cap and rotor though

If you insist on using that rotor then file the rest of the plastic away so its the same width as the metal, as soon as that plastic has a smattering of carbon on it from the spark it will conduct just as well as the rotor tip and there go your rods.