any vr6 swapped S2's or CQ's out there?

[my2000apb]

which boils down to using a lot of fuel and going fast = FUN!!!!!!!!!!

[Mcstiff]

No argument with that.

[JP]

Ah now this is starting to make a little more sense. 24v is not a VR6 in this country they indeed flow differently and behave differently from the 12v engine. You either have the 2.8 4 motion lump or the R32/R36. You'll also find that the 2.8 is a better engine for forced induction use and unless going for all out racing spec a much more useable cylinderhead configuration for the road.

With regards to not knowing a lot about the VR6 my2000apb I'll leave you to figure out who I am.

Back to the 24v R32 in stock head form with a 35r and forged internals I'd expect to see 480-500bhp or 520whp on a US dynojet running sensible streetable boost, anything more and the dyno is incorrectly callibrated. There is 2 dyno's I trust in this country and on neither have I ever seen 500bhp+ on a R32 with a 35R. Take the same turbo and fit it to an I5 and you will see upto 580bhp on sensible boost figures (600whp on US dynojet).

Ultimately it comes back to the initial point which is why go to all that effort in order to go backwards. Did some headwork on my I5 daily hack, fitted some rods, retained stock pistons put a 30R on it with a wagner evo manifold and a £60 intercooler of ebay, used stock ecu and made more power than a R32 with a 35r. with fully blown internals aftermarket ecu the lot.

If really wanting to go the route of more cubes then I would opt for an s4 block with a 3ltr n/a stroke crank in it, pair of 2.4 heads ported, port matched rs4 intake mani, pair of k24 porsche turbo's on tubular mani's and make 800+ streetable on normal pump gas. Easier to mate to the drivetrain, easier to fit, can retain stock management so good fuel economy of boost without the need of extensive mapping as VAG have done it for you.

[Jamo]

That must mean that my i5 lump is REALLY rubbish as the oil fill is even further!!!!

Hold on I recognise that pic it's on motorgeek you the guy with the highly modified cam cover case and you welded the nipple on the back as it dumps oil to the catch tank during hard acceleration.

Also you connected the block crank vent to the head?

[URQguy]

Hey Jamo,
That is me. I started off with a WR block, so there is no crankcase vent on the side of the block, though I did have this setup on a 20vt with a MC block, and testing showed the same results.

Basically I am just venting the heck out of the cam cover with a ton of holes placed where oil does not flip up off the cams, and then a bunch of Stainless wool to seperate out the oil. The two vents are 3/4", which dump into the can, and then to atmosphere.

It is over kill. My valve cover does 99.9% of the seperating. I will delete the can on the next revision, and route the hoses to the bottom to vent to atmosphere, or maybe make a venturi effect into the exhaust out back. I do not get any liquid vapor out of the cam cover.

I have logged crank pressure over extended WOT sessions with the old setup and the new setup. I'll get 1-2psi if I really beat on it, for extended periods, where the old setup was basically a hole on the back of the cam and the bottom and top ends vented together. I would see around 12 psi if I was beating on it.

As always, I hope that helps

Hank, aka shavedquattro on Motorgeek.

[JP]

or maybe make a venturi effect into the exhaust out back.

.

Tried that twice now on turbo charged engines once in the bottom of the downpipe where it meets the exhaust system (3" all the way) and it melted the one way PCV check valve despite being angled correctly and distanced accordingly resulting in a pressurised crankcase and almost a fire from exhaust gases into the oil.

Second time tried it much further back in the system to reduce heat to the pcv. And crankcase pressure got too high compared to routing it back into the intake.

As for venting to atmosphere I found that drain back from the turbo was compromised on overun due to increased crankcase pressures resulting in the turbo seals failing from backpressure in the oil drain lines (10an). Making the car smoke like a trooper. Routed it back into the intake and smoke instantly stopped.

[my2000apb]

24v vr into cq has started!!!

[pixsaudisex2]

Well keep us posted...

[Wizard-of-OD]

Reading some of the comments here made my head hurt a little...
I am happy that something I brought to light is finally getting the respect it deserves. I love 20V motors as much as the next guy but you cant beat the sound of a meaty 12V VR6....same goes for a 24V VR6 . Brand new motors can be had for 1600USD!

[my2000apb]

Reading some of the comments here made my head hurt a little...
I am happy that something I brought to light is finally getting the respect it deserves. I love 20V motors as much as the next guy but you cant beat the sound of a meaty 12V VR6....same goes for a 24V VR6 . Brand new motors can be had for 1600USD!

yes, thank you

there are many merits to the vr6 as well

shorter and no timing chain, 7 rugged mains

and hahaha

i have 9 inches from front of my motor to the back of oem core support, hello mega FMIC and front mount radiator

[quattro87]

I wouldn't mind doing a VR6t project, just not in my Urqs. It just doesn't seem right putting anything but an I5 is a Urq. In the US, where we didn't get the Urq with a 20vt I5, trading out the 10vt motor for 20vt is about as far as it gets. That said, I've seen the VR6t swap in a coupe quattro and have to say I'm jealous of all the room in front for intercooler/radiator. Junkyard engine replacement would be nice also.