Nice ...
Engine block breather upgrade?
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My setup:
AN12 out of the crankcase breathing hole to a catchtank, an6 from the valve cover, AN12 drain from the bottom of the tank to the oilsump.An12 venting to atmosphere.
Works well on the trackComment
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I tried a diffrent approach of baffling the sump to stop the oil surging into the wrong places and so far seeems to be working.
If you ever take the sump off (which is more than likely if you have a high performance I5) it's well worth doing.
I also tried looking for a supplier of rubber baffles with no luck
Like these
The ONLY S2 Golf!
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19402
10.42@138mph
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0wnkkOfFpXgComment
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That seems like a quite nice mod. You don't have CAD's or drawings of the plates?I tried a diffrent approach of baffling the sump to stop the oil surging into the wrong places and so far seeems to be working.
If you ever take the sump off (which is more than likely if you have a high performance I5) it's well worth doing.
I also tried looking for a supplier of rubber baffles with no luck

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I dont have drawings because i made them by hand and cut the rectangle with a milling machine.
These are the flaps Pete, someone told me they originate from BMW sumps but i've not seen them anywhere.
Simple to install, just a round hole with a thin slot above which locates them.

Anybody know where to buy them
The ONLY S2 Golf!
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19402
10.42@138mph
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0wnkkOfFpXgComment
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Interesting. Would help a lot if you knew the BMW model that has it. Here you can search for BMW-parts: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/I dont have drawings because i made them by hand and cut the rectangle with a milling machine.
These are the flaps Pete, someone told me they originate from BMW sumps but i've not seen them anywhere.
Simple to install, just a round hole with a thin slot above which locates them.
Anybody know where to buy them
With a quick look, seems that e39 M5 don't have anything that looks like that.
Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
BMW 740iA e38 - ProjectComment
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Maybe the rubber flaps aren't so difficult to diy..? Of course you must use rubber that is oilresistant.


Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
BMW 740iA e38 - ProjectComment
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Old thread, but I did a oil control system like gnutz2's one(not finished in pic.):

Did also the breather upgrade on the valvecover like blackS2:
Call me a "rip offer" but I made the drain to the sump like epic has done:

Hope all works well, thanks for the ideas.

Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
BMW 740iA e38 - ProjectComment
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I can't believe I've not seen this thread beforeMost PCV valves seem to do nothing at all as they're screwed, mine might well have been a 90 deg bend for all the use it did. I've not run one with my catch tank and haven't noticed any differences in idle. Same for removing and blocking the N80 pipework to the IM, no change. I can't promise that's the same for all and I know RWD19T has had some smoking on idle due to no 'suction' on the breather system - his car is somewhat modified though and now has the mother of all catch tanks
For a road car you can just fit a catch tank in the system - get a proper one though and proper doesn't mean shiney Chinese Eb_y special
TBH less than RS2 spec it'll catch more water than oil when used on the road all year round - even my more than spirited driving, launches, 2nd and 3rd gear WOT runs didn't trouble it one bit - so avoid a wet sump return here. It's cornering that puts any small amount of oil into the tank - right handers taken at WOT. The tank will catch most of what little oil there is but it's really very little.
Above RS2 spec and the oil vapour has enough energy for the catch tank to do its thing nicely so well worth it there - RS2 spec really is as high as the stock system can cope with on the road.
GT30+ and I'd suggest a swirl pot or catch tank with wet sump return (below the oil level) on a road car too, otherwise you might get a nasty suprise when 1L of oil is in the tank and not the car. This can happen under acceleration due to the higher g forces and crank case pressures.
On track it's a different story (as a few found out at ADI, including me with my catch tank). Right hand bends and application of WOT thereof mean that the oil is forced up the tubes via the cornering foces as well as the crank case pressure and so a catch tank is essential on any track S2 for this reason alone (sorry to use bold but it's now proven), preferably a well designed one rather than an Eb_y special but something is better than nothing I guess... I found that with my tank attached to the stock head/block combo pipe with 19mm pipe, I was putting 100-150ml / session into my tank... that's with just ~300bhp. Without the tank that's got to be 50-100mm into the breather inlet... turbo... IC... etc. (s2driveruk
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The only substitute for a tank is a swirl pot, correctly designed and fitted, which uses a wet sump return. It will have similar condensation issues though so be warned if you fit a sump return on a road car of modest output. You can also wet sump return a catch tank but for the reasons above, it's not worth it on a road car RS2 spec or less. A swirl pot does a similar job as a catch tank, just in a different way - a swirl pot does not collect the oil, it has to drain somewhere for the system to work properly - hence the wet sump return.
For over RS2 spec, you need both a swirl pot and catch tank for a track car with a wet sump return and maybe a larger head breather. Anything less and the £5k you've sunk into an engine and turbo and map and etc. etc. and it's all at risk for not spending 5% more.
For the rest of us, larger pipework is the key IMO. I'm working on a faux swirl pot that will work on road/track cars up to RS2 spec. This will use 30mm pipe from the crank breather to the swirl pot and sleeve the head breather to 19mm for better breathing. This will rely on the larger pipe allowing any oil to drain to the sump while maintaining a clear airway. It replaces the current 15mm pipework that's stock on the S2 (this uses the same method of breathing but is ~25% of the area). The 'swirl pot' also provides a method of slowing the breather vapours (helping deposition and condensation of the oil) and thus helps to stop most of the oil reaching the tank in the first place - leaving it in the engine! The 'swirl pot' oulet then feeds to a tank that catches anything that's got past. If it's empty then all the better IMO as the oil remains in the engine. Better to not have any oil in the tank than the tank catch it all IMO.
Remember, everything the tank collects isn't in the sump. @ 150ml / session, that's ~10% of the engine's oil / half day... 20% / 6 session track day...
Not ideal when the S2 needs to be brimmed to keep the head happy anyway (remember that ticking top end after a thrash anyone
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Anyway, lots of info there. Happy to help as I've spent time and money looking into this and thanks to some chats with RWD19T and Newsh, I'm getting a better picture of what's going on all the time.
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1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
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