Starting and running issues

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Agreed.... I'd be interested to know the different failure modes experienced due to dizzies, there's the metal / plastic gear discussion, then the rotor arm availability, and probably loads more besides.... bloody things!

Here's hoping mine is what's been causing the problem.

[newsh]

If the breather system is shot you'll have been drawing in unmetered air which will cause lean running issues.

[SHEEPISH-S2]

I had been suffering a number of running issues, turns out I had big leaks both sides of the turbo.... hence an unmetered suck and blow. Also had the issue with the Hall Sender (if my thoughts are right), she'd been flat as a fart from 4000rpm onwards since the starting issue began, classic syptoms of the Hall sender failing as I understand?

I had actually noticed very rich running, my guess was due to the boost leak... however I've found and fixed so many issues since she's been off the road that it'll be interesting to see what she's like when I get her back on the road!

[newsh]

Make sure you replace all the small bore vac pipes while you're in there. And check the little one-way-valve in the breather system near the TB, its where a 20mm and a 10mm pipe seem to join, you would not suspect there was a valve in there .

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Found that valve owing to the fact that it was right at the point where the pipe (T shaped bit) had broken in 2... looks and operates OK. Will make sure I check everything before putting it all back together.... took me long enough to strip all the crap from behind there so will make sure I check and replace everything as required, I don't want to have to take it apart again any time soon!

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Ok, quick update on my troubles.

Dizzy changed, initially cheated by ignoring TDC and just marked old ones exact position and put new where old was, all back together and still the same fault but now with some occasional misfires. Hence I figure I'd best check the timing, timing cover off (what a scrap without removing PAS or Aux rad!), I line up the cam sprocket, check for the mark through the brilliantly placed flywheel veiwing window, check cylinder 1 ppiston at top of stroke and then check the dizzy..... appears to be pretty much spot on although the dizzy is tricky to truely align with the intake manifold in situ.

However, I've now noticed in Pete's pics that his flywheel mark is bang in the centre of the viewing hole, mine is only just appearing.... is that right or do I infact have it slightly off. I must say that the cam belt seems a little loose so has maybe jumped a tooth.... who knows! Any thoughts?

Also gonna try changing the rpm and crank sensors but as she's not been showing any codes for these I'm not confidant that'll solve it.

So it's still looking a bit bleak, I will soldier on and have now decided that I'm gonna do everything that's needed whilst she's off the road, things that should have been done 10years ago but never did! (best not tell my mum and dad though as it's parked on their drive not mine!)

Cheers,

Gareth

[newsh]

You said that boost leaks have been fixed, did you actually do a pressure test?

You have to roll the engine forward in gear onto the marks to take up any backlash.

In Acidburn's pic the "0" (zero) mark is just appearing, it should be dissected by the edge of the window. (ignore the red arrow, it is a red herring

[newsh]

Check the brown ground wires bolted under the Inlet manifold near the battery.

[dkw_dude]

However, I've now noticed in Pete's pics that his flywheel mark is bang in the centre of the viewing hole, mine is only just appearing.... is that right or do I infact have it slightly off. I must say that the cam belt seems a little loose so has maybe jumped a tooth.... who knows! Any thoughts?

The mark in the pic is on the lower side of the viewing hole, its got a "0" right beside it, that "0" cut in half like in the picture is what you want to see, that looks spot on to me.

The hoses for the PCV must be in good condition, will not run as it's supposed to with leaking hoses..

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Just to answer a couple of the questions:

-Boost system pressure tested with pressure kit and now holding 1 bar

-PCV system replaced and air tight although PCV itself does require changing as is stuck open (been running with it like this though)

-Timing marks..... now looking very much like it's slipped a tooth, flywheel mark some way from aligning to camshaft sprocket alignement mark. Will check the following at next opportunity: TDC flywheel mark aligns to actual TDC via Cyl1 piston stroke, will check that Camshaft sprocket aligns to the cam cogs under the rocker cover and that key is in tact, will re-align, tighten belt and recheck timing marks.

-Hoping this is my issue, the pulsing fuel pump relay supply should be a big clue but can find only a couple of non-start faults that had similar symtoms.... think they were timing and a hall sender so would mean I'm still looking in the right area.

Cheers for all the help guys, keep it coming!

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Oh.... and I have removed, checked and cleaned the earths, did have a wire that was loose in one of the crimps (came out in my hand!) but didn't solve the problem

[newsh]

Getting back to the difficulty in starting, this can often be due to a bad contact in the ignition switch.

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Got back to it today..... timing is infact spot on, no mark on my flywheel hence went with the old school stick in cylinder 1 trick and found timing was perfect at TDC(including the dizzy i've just replaced).

Now going for the Crank or RPM Sensors.

I'm still perplexed by the picking and dropping Fuel Pump relay with this fault.... anyone seen this before?

[newsh]

Have you checked the ignition switch?

[SHEEPISH-S2]

Haven't checked the ignition yet, what's the best way to do so?