ARP head bolts

[JP]

There is different tensile studs available, most I5 kits are a 65ft/lb tq setting. The higher 200,000 tensile are 80ft/lb but are rarer.

Both benefit from using larger washers, and this does not change the torque settings or the re torque procedure.

Re torque I normally advice 1 heat cycle, then 150-200 miles and once more before mapping at 500-1000miles. If you still get movement at this point do it once more after mapping. This is done to allow for the settling of the headgasket, the digging in of the firing rings of the gasket into the block and head etc...

Stock headbolts are stretch and designed to preload with stretch to allow consistent clamping load under thermal expansion of normal use. Only problem is once you start running over 1.8 - 1.9bar of boost the cylinder pressures exceed the clamping load of the stock headbolts and prolonged high boost runs the gasket starts to blow in-between the cylinders.

Hth JP

[madpugger]

^^^

Told ya he'd know

[Simons]

Well I found the fittings instructions, it was in the box with other papers and sticker

It's like Pirvu Eugen instructions, and they are 200.000psi


I couln't fit my old washers, they had less inner diametre than ARP...the only option is to use a Sport Quattro washers. I fit the arp washers...because I need to end for this friday...and I can work for it a couple of hours a day...and I can't wait for the SQ washers...

Finally I tightened the nuts like arp recommends, three equal steps to 85 ft/lbs with the arp moly grease. 38, 77, 115 Nm

Pirvu, how many miles did you run with your arp's bolts to the date??

[Rocco]

good luck friend,take it running for the next weekend¡¡ pin swap included

[Simons]

Thanks! cross your fingers

[Pirvu Eugen]

Well I found the fittings instructions, it was in the box with other papers and sticker

It's like Pirvu Eugen instructions, and they are 200.000psi


I couln't fit my old washers, they had less inner diametre than ARP...the only option is to use a Sport Quattro washers. I fit the arp washers...because I need to end for this friday...and I can work for it a couple of hours a day...and I can't wait for the SQ washers...

Finally I tightened the nuts like arp recommends, three equal steps to 85 ft/lbs with the arp moly grease. 38, 77, 115 Nm

Pirvu, how many miles did you run with your arp's bolts to the date??

Hy!... I didint start the engine till now...i used the Sport Quattro washers and tight the bolts in 3 steps to 115nm also. After 1 heat cycle i will try to see how much movement i have in them. You will be the first though!
All the best and goodluck!
Please post the result after the heat cycle please!
Regards!
Eugen

[Simons]

I can't use SQ washers If I could have another week...

Thanks Eugen!! When I check the torque I will post the results

Cheers!

Simon

[JP]

Remember 80ft/lb with lube 85ft/lb with w30 motor oil.

As for SQ washers its not the be all end all if you don't use them you may just have to re torque an extra time on earlier heads. Just make sure when torqueing to use a digital torque wrench not a horrible clicky thing.

This is because the minute you hit 80ft/lb the torque wrench clicks and you stop tightening. When using a digital wrench you get to 80. Then you maintain 80ft/lb on the digital readout and the nut will move upto an extra 45-60 degrees when using arp lube. If you don't have access to a digital torque wrench then bounce the torque wrench through its click a couple of times. Not ideal but it will give a little bit more accuracy then just stopping at the click.

[madpugger]

JP, have you seen the picture of my head with ARP washers and around 200 miles? (see my avant link in signature)

[merlin's S4]

JP, have you seen the picture of my head with ARP washers and around 200 miles? (see my avant link in signature)

You've got me worried now. I've fitted ARPs with the standard washers. Not done 1000 miles yet.

[andy10v]

Just make sure when torqueing to use a digital torque wrench not a horrible clicky thing.

This is because the minute you hit 80ft/lb the torque wrench clicks and you stop tightening. When using a digital wrench you get to 80. Then you maintain 80ft/lb on the digital readout and the nut will move upto an extra 45-60 degrees when using arp lube. If you don't have access to a digital torque wrench then bounce the torque wrench through its click a couple of times. Not ideal but it will give a little bit more accuracy then just stopping at the click.

Is that applicable to all situations when torquing lubed bolts?

[Simons]

Remember 80ft/lb with lube 85ft/lb with w30 motor oil.

As for SQ washers its not the be all end all if you don't use them you may just have to re torque an extra time on earlier heads. Just make sure when torqueing to use a digital torque wrench not a horrible clicky thing.

This is because the minute you hit 80ft/lb the torque wrench clicks and you stop tightening. When using a digital wrench you get to 80. Then you maintain 80ft/lb on the digital readout and the nut will move upto an extra 45-60 degrees when using arp lube. If you don't have access to a digital torque wrench then bounce the torque wrench through its click a couple of times. Not ideal but it will give a little bit more accuracy then just stopping at the click.

I used lube, and I put 115 Nm due one reason

80ft/lb are aprox. 108,5 Nm and 85t/lb - 115,2 Nm, the diference is 6,7 Nm...isn't too much, but it's something.

I tightened to 115 Nm with arp moly, and I did it because my wrench, apart of it's "clicks", isn't "brand new", the main reason, I think it isn't bad tool it's a Facom but I used it...I always use extra 5Nm due this factor, it isn't too much 5Nm but I prefer to applied, the bolt and the head gasket will be ok with this extra torque without problems

I usually do two clicks after use my wrench...and it tighten a litle litle bit

After use I always put 0 in the scale, to take care with the spring of the wrench

When I tightened in degrees I usually past the line a bit like is 90º for example, I pull to 92º and on the others the same, because when I stop to pull, stop the torsion and go back to 90º

My next wrench will be digital, all in one, with degrees, Nm, kg-cm, ft/lb, in/lb.....and music

[JP]

Andy10v when torquing studs and none stretch bolts yes. When torqueing stretch bolts like head bolts I'll repeat the final torque setting prior to the angle using the bounce method if there is no digital torque wrench available.

For example when you do 40nm then 60nm on stock headbolts you would do the 60nm again prior to the 90's. If you don't you end up with gasket failure on the middle cylinders. On a digital torque wrench you'll see that the central headbolts drop from 60nm to 40nm once the outer bolts have been tightened to 60. Whereas the outer ones stay at 60. Hence doing 40, 60, 60 again and then the two 90's.

Madpugger did you thoroughly lube the washer with arp lube both sides and the bottom face of the nut? As from what I can make out (mobile phone screen as abroad at mo) the washer has been turning with the nut causing binding with the aluminum of the head. I've seen this happen on oem headbolts from gsf on 16v's where people haven't used the copper grease on the washers where they bind so bad that the aluminum twists inwards making it impossible to remove the headbolt from the head without force as the threads get caught on the lip caused by the binding.

When tightening ARP headstuds the washer shouldn't move once you have gone past 25-35ft/lb. Only the nut should turn freely on the washer. If you get a sudden audible shock/click whilst tightening where the nut suddenly feels looser then there wasn't enough lube.

[JP]

Simons thumbs up as pretty much as good as it gets with a clicky one. You can also get your wrench re calibrated I normally do this every 6mnths

[andy10v]

[QUOTE=RWD19T;564800]Andy10v when torquing studs and none stretch bolts yes. When torqueing stretch bolts like head bolts I'll repeat the final torque setting prior to the angle using the bounce method if there is no digital torque wrench available.

For example when you do 40nm then 60nm on stock headbolts you would do the 60nm again prior to the 90's. If you don't you end up with gasket failure on the middle cylinders. On a digital torque wrench you'll see that the central headbolts drop from 60nm to 40nm once the outer bolts have been tightened to 60. Whereas the outer ones stay at 60. Hence doing 40, 60, 60 again and then the two 90's. QUOTE]

Thanks for the education