Loud blowoff valve

[Big Lee M]

You could use a Forge splitter valve, the are atmosheric and recirculating and you can change them 25/75 and though to 75/25 so it won't mess with the car. Nothing wrong with a valve if they sound good, each to there own I bet a lot of people who say they are chavy and ricer have had one at some point!

It won't mess with the engine management system at all. You can fluctuate it between 25% and 75% either way

[|CL|NIKI]

OK, that explains quite a bit. This may be a stupid question but are there any loud recirculating valves?

Verno che si nov no v Bg ima mnogo hora koito biha ti pomognali.

When/If You put Maf after turbo - You can put very loud BOV, when is it on a stock place - just forget about any changes/repairs . For stock car up to 300 engine Hp its not necessary anything stronger/harder/forged/expensive/race/tuned than what is on the car. I was with stock rods/pistons up to 500hp. They(pistons) will handle even more.
Cheers mate.

[JP]

I use a stock 710N that dumps to atmosphere as my MAF is on the pressure side near the throttle body it doesn't effect fuelling.

Between the straight through 3" sidepipe with no mufflers the screaming whistling of the induction through the turbo and a blow of sound so loud it scares the pants of the idiot women driver in the convertible infront of you there is absolutely no subtlety at WOT.

However drive normally and the 3" bypass closes and goes through stock backbox. The turbo doesn't need to make positive pressure so all induction whistling and noisy dumps (sniggers) dissapear into a stock sounding luxury motor. So family sleeper by weekday and raging monster on trackdays. Best of both worlds but took a lot of effort to make it all work properly without effecting the running of the car.

[Rusty]

I ran a GFB adjustable valve for a bit and the car ran ok with it on minimum vent to atmosphere but it wasn't as good as a recirculating valve and was crap on full atmosphere, so I sold it and refitted my Forge 007. You can increase noise with airbox mods or a cone filter

[Deception]

You could use a Forge splitter valve, the are atmosheric and recirculating and you can change them 25/75 and thought to 75/25 so it won't mess with the car. Nothing wrong with a valve if they sound good, each to there own I bet a lot of people who say they are chavy and ricer have had one at some point!

You mean it won't mess at all or it will mess a bit?

I ran a GFB adjustable valve for a bit and the car ran ok with it on minimum vent to atmosphere but it wasn't as good as a recirculating valve and was crap on full atmosphere, so I sold it and refitted my Forge 007. You can increase noise with airbox mods or a cone filter

Is the Forge 007 nearly as loud as a loud BOV? I am not sure I want a cone filter as it will suck hot air from the engine compartment...

[Rusty]

You don't want a cone filter but you do want something that will effectively act like a boost leak

A properly shielded and cold air fed cone filter is as good as an airbox, something like a BMC CDA will do a good job. 007 is a recirculating valve and is no louder than OE, it's the airbox mods that allow the noise to be heard due to less damping by the OE box, even just a panel filter will allow more noise.

[Big Lee M]

I've just edited it so I hope it is a bit clearer?

[Deception]

OK, what if I fit in a K&N cone air filter and shield it and a Forge Splitter valve? So this way if I dump 75% of the pressure in the inlet, those 25% left will be enough to keep the MAF in check and avoid fueling overinjection?

[QuattroFever]

...something like a BMC CDA...

wow, I had one of those years back what a pain in the wallet that was! Worked great but I just couldn't justify it and took it back like a tight Asre

[Rusty]

Try the filter first and see what you think.

[QuattroFever]

I have a cone filter setup for sale if you want. Not after much for it. Pm me.

[prj]

OK, what if I fit in a K&N cone air filter and shield it and a Forge Splitter valve? So this way if I dump 75% of the pressure in the inlet, those 25% left will be enough to keep the MAF in check and avoid fueling overinjection?

I have to ask you one question.
Is some sort of ricer sound worth making your car slower?

Because fitting a cone filter will make your car slower, as it'll suck hot air from under the hood, unless you make a proper CAI.
Also, if you fit a cone filter on stock MAF, it won't read right, so your car won't run quite right.
Finally, dumping any excess air to the atmosphere will make your car slower through the gears.

[Deception]

Thanks for all the replies so far, guys!

I have to ask you one question.
Is some sort of ricer sound worth making your car slower?

Because fitting a cone filter will make your car slower, as it'll suck hot air from under the hood, unless you make a proper CAI.
Also, if you fit a cone filter on stock MAF, it won't read right, so your car won't run quite right.
Finally, dumping any excess air to the atmosphere will make your car slower through the gears.

Well, here's the story... My car currently looks very plain. Someone might as well think it's an A6 2.0 16V Avant. Unless, of course, they're more Audi-knowledgeable and take note of the inflated fenders of the S6...
Yes, it will run slower. But have you thought by how much? I think it will be barely noticeable if at all. Only the stopwatch will make the difference... The turbo makes pressure instantly even if all air is dumped.

[QuattroFever]

Needs heat shielding but as long as the maf has the mesh inserts and it's an oilless filter it should be ok.

[prj]

Needs heat shielding but as long as the maf has the mesh inserts and it's an oilless filter it should be ok.

It's not, you need a tube between the MAF and the filter. If you just stick a cone onto the stock MAF, you'll get wonky readings.
BTDT many times.