URS6 Fuel Tank Filter?

[Wrath]

Bought a new bosch hall sender from Poland for 75£ so you don´t need to buy the one from VAG at 140£ or what it was priced last time i was there...

[Wrath]

it´like 71 € so it even cheaper now...

http://e-autoparts.pl/czujnik-impulsow-uklad-zaplonowy-p-2133.html

[HMS-S6]

According to others, the Hall sender signal is really only used as a crude signal to get the car started. However the Audi information states that if the signal fails when the engine is running (i.e. unplugging it) the timing is retarded by 11 degrees and the charge pressure and knock control is interupted. I am assuming that they mean boost will be mechanical and that the knock control is disabled. Interestingly if the knock sensors fail, timing is also retarded by this magic 11 degrees.
So its difficult to see how the car performs as it should when the hall sender is unplugged as it would be on mechanical boost and retarded ignition. Unless somehow timing is advanced somehow!
You aren't using an RS2 cam pully by any chance?
Other than that it might be worth having a word with PRJ to see how you could log some parameters to clarify what is going on.

Its the CAMSHAFT sensor being disconnected that retards the timing and reduces boost, when the CRANKSHAFT sensor is disconnected the ecu runs off a memory from cranking. No, the Car is standard.

[HMS-S6]

This came up recently in another thread where I seem to remember that while the CPS is ostensibly only necessary to start the engine, it turned out that it was important to have it working correctly when the engine is running also.

A bit like the poster above said. UrS4boy may be familar with the thread I’m thinking of, or someone else may remember it and post a link.

Given that you’ve replace everything else you may as well replace your CPS ?

I presume you’ve seen the comments where a CPS from the dealer is dear, but if one is able or willing, it is possible to buy the “active part” of the CPS much cheaper and marry it with the old CPS to fix it.

Again somebody may be able to post the appropriate link.



Best wishes.

And yes, The CPS is one of the things on the list that is a new AUDI part!

[twoqu]

Its the CAMSHAFT sensor being disconnected that retards the timing and reduces boost, when the CRANKSHAFT sensor is disconnected the ecu runs off a memory from cranking. No, the Car is standard.

Whoops!
We are talking about the G4 flywheel pin sender. Unfortunately there is no mention of a subsitute function. I can see how it doesen't make sense. If it remembers the position when you disconnect it, then its effectively in the same position it was when the car started! As the car won't start unless the crank and cam signals are synchronised then it surely must be in the right place.
Unless of course there is something mechanical occuring to the position of the pin between starting and running. Not sure if a dual mass can basically deform radially so that the pin position is not where it was. There might be more chance of that happening with the engine running rather than cranking due to the forces involved.
My logic being that if you have replaced or substituted known good components without sucesss then the problem must lie with the mechanical bits.
I think Paul N mentioned putting in on a scope. Perhaps that might tell you whether that particular signal is out of sync when the car is running as opposed to when its cranking. Perhaps this is one of those implausible signal issues.
Might be worth investigating how dual mass flywheels fail.

[twoqu]

Its difficult to see exactly but it does look like the dual mass part with the pin/ring gear welded to it is bolted to the crank so they shouldn't be any movement that side at all! Makes sense otherwise cranking and the pin position would be troublesome. However it does look like its not a solid piece of metal, but rather a welded fabrication. So whether the outer could seperate relative to the centre, I am not sure.

[HMS-S6]

Its difficult to see exactly but it does look like the dual mass part with the pin/ring gear welded to it is bolted to the crank so they shouldn't be any movement that side at all! Makes sense otherwise cranking and the pin position would be troublesome. However it does look like its not a solid piece of metal, but rather a welded fabrication. So whether the outer could seperate relative to the centre, I am not sure.

Not just saying it but this is EXACTLY the theory i had with it!!! But like you said, it looks as if the pin part is on the solid part.

[twoqu]

Not just saying it but this is EXACTLY the theory i had with it!!! But like you said, it looks as if the pin part is on the solid part.

Frustrating not being able to prove a theory. Looking at pics there seem to be concentric rings which makes it look like its not all one piece. Its obviously welded around the ring gear bit like a flex plate on an auto which is a bit flimsy and often do fracture around the crank bolts.
Not exactly a 5 min job to swop out to eliminate it.
We have gone a bit off topic, perhaps it might be worth starting another thread to see if anyone has any input on whether this is a possibility. If its not possible for the pin to move relative to the centre then the another possibility is that the actual centre bolt holes have been elongated allowing the whole thing to move when running but somehow returning back to its correct position when stopped to allow starting again.
So basically we need confirmation that removing the G4 signal when running puts the pin signal back to the cranking value. As the car starts, Motronic must be happy and the car then as I understand it performs as it should.
Whether its possible for the flywheel side with the pin to slip somehow and how best to verify that without a teardown. Unless of course you can lock the crank pulley and see whether you can move the flywheel on the ring gear through the starter motor aperature.