URS6 Way Too weak!!!

[newsh]

I doubt it, the ECU is well protected against short circuit.

[HMS-S6]

Mmmmh I remember telling you water temp sensor issue in the beginning did I not

. . . . . . . . . . maybe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Still just daren't get my hopes up too much Might these wires shorting and not (as it started as an intermittent fault) of damaged the ECU at all??

[JP]

Mmmmh I remember telling you water temp sensor issue in the beginning did I not

[HMS-S6]

I have a slack-ish morning tomorrow so will take it out for a blast!! But to be honest, its been 5 years now of finding stuff it could be so i'm not getting my hopes up too much

[UrS4boy]

G62 coolant temp sensor info

Dear MobilityScooterMad :

A messed up G62 coolant temp sensor (the one the ECU uses to determine fueling requirements) would definitely cause running issues, e.g. running rich because the ECU thinks the engine is still cold when in fact it has warmed up to 87 C.

More G62 info here:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20985.phtml

[twoqu]

Yep! The fuelling would be rich if the sensor tells the ecu the car is cold rather than at running temp!
It will depend on what information the ecu sees from that sensor. It does fit in with our "Its on the car" theory and in principle with fuel delivery problems. It would basically be getting too much fuel if the temp sensor info was not accurate.

[HMS-S6]

Had the car read today with a non Vag-com system today. Didn't plan on it but the guy swore that vag-com was basic and his lap top run system was much better so i thought i may as well give it a go!

The readings came up suggesting a fault with the wiring to the ECU temp sensor as in intermittant shorting/earthing. I was sceptical as the vag-com had shown nothing towards this, but to confess not to have checked what the temp reading was

I pulled back the insulating boot expecting another dead end and found that the two wires were twisted over each other and somehow both wires insulation had worn off and the bare wires touching and had been for some time by the look of the wire. Until i can get that length of loom and plug to solder in i have taped the wires with insulation tape. Not had time to go out in the car yet though.

Am i right in thinking this could cause my running fault???

[HMS-S6]

Are the cams the original cams from the factory.

I assume so. Plus, the problem began as an intermittant one, it would be fine one gear then rubish the next etc.

[220bhp]

Are the cams the original cams from the factory.

[UrS4boy]

Dmitri: Why do you keep saying remove the ECU instead of just remove the fuse in the red S26/S102 fuse holder above the ECU (for say, 10 minutes or whatever to drain down anything in the capacitors). Are you thinking that there is a connection issue with the 55 pin T55 connector?

[HMS-S6]

Yes and no
If it's way off, it can affect it.

Before you remove the ECU, you could actually try logging Group 000, so that you get the current trims...
Probably better idea to do it that way around...

So:
1. Log Group 000 trims.
2. Remove ECU, disconnect O2 sensor (heater & signal)
3. Reconnect ECU

Try...

4. Remove exhaust.

Plus the engine bay pic part still applies, I really want to see it

Thank's will do asap

[prj]

Thank-you, will get on the 02 part tomorrow as i have to drive customers cars hme tonight

Does the ecu use the 02 signal under full throttle??

Yes and no
If it's way off, it can affect it.

Before you remove the ECU, you could actually try logging Group 000, so that you get the current trims...
Probably better idea to do it that way around...

So:
1. Log Group 000 trims.
2. Remove ECU, disconnect O2 sensor (heater & signal)
3. Reconnect ECU

Try...

4. Remove exhaust.

Plus the engine bay pic part still applies, I really want to see it

[HMS-S6]

Prj is thinking that the catalytic converters are plugged. Despite what you say about the used system that you installed was from an UrS that was "running perfect", maybe it wasn't and/or now the cats are plugged enough that they are creating a huge back pressure, causing the car to feel very sluggish because the turbo can't spin up properly. You owe it to yourself to remove the exhaust from the cat's back (on a lift, in one piece (or whatever)) so you can feel how the car responds without any exhaust restrictions. (It will be a bit loud during the test).

It had its standard system on, on which it ran awful, i then fitted another system, inc cats, which it still ran awful on, then fitted cat bypas pipes, then this system i have now. The car has ran the same through all of this!!!

[HMS-S6]

Well, taking the system off can wait I guess - post up the engine bay first

Also, leave the O2 sensor unplugged, don't plug that back in.
If that doesn't give any difference - plug everything back in, then drive around a bit, and after driving around, log Group 000 with vag-com or make a screenshot of the 10 values.

Thank-you, will get on the 02 part tomorrow as i have to drive customers cars hme tonight

Does the ecu use the 02 signal under full throttle??

[HMS-S6]

You could have also said "hmm, maybe there's something wrong with it?"

On topic:
Have you tried removing the exhaust?
Leave only the DP.

Try unplugging the O2 sensor (both heater and signal), then unplug the ECU fully for a moment and plug it back in.

I've not tried removing it, but the system (downpipe back) is again off onother car which was running perfect Is it still worth trying??

I'll definitely try unplugging the 02 sensor though and the ecu as you mentioned!

I'll take a snap of the engine bay and post it up as soon as i can.