URS6 Way Too weak!!!
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Run a new boost line from ecu to engine bay. Worth a try. That will save pressure kits etc. Fairly quick to do even a temp install to eliminate.
Don't give up and I also know what its like with the kids, work etc. Keep with it.
CraigLeave a comment:
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Thing is, for Audi specific tools (pressure test kit) I have to borrow everytime. I just haven't got the time or access to parts as a I5 specialist will.Leave a comment:
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2.0 Bar absolute pressure on the dash display = 0.98 Bar (14.3 psi) boost = you have a boost leak, perhaps as I was suggesting.
Don't give up quite yet.Leave a comment:
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Was reading 2.0 bar on the on-dash display. I have decided today that enough is enough with regards to my time though. I have as good as two jobs, a missus and a child, so between them i have not nearly enough time to spend on this any more (had none of the above when bought it, lolI think I knew that you pressure tested the entire intake. This is a bit different. Typically a pressure test of the intake doesn't go much above 1 Bar. What I am talking about is a potential split in the green plastic hose that opens up ABOVE the normal intake manifold pressure test pressures, preventing the ECU MAP sensor from getting the proper reading.
You say you have a mechanical gauge. Where did you install the "T" in the green plastic line? What boost pressures are you seeing when you think you hear the pinking?Leave a comment:
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I think I knew that you pressure tested the entire intake. This is a bit different. Typically a pressure test of the intake doesn't go much above 1 Bar. What I am talking about is a potential split in the green plastic hose that opens up ABOVE the normal intake manifold pressure test pressures, preventing the ECU MAP sensor from getting the proper reading.
You say you have a mechanical gauge. Where did you install the "T" in the green plastic line? What boost pressures are you seeing when you think you hear the pinking?Leave a comment:
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Can you recomend anyone who can look at the car and cure it?Sorry, but that's not happening. Only thing you can hear is wind noise with the windows down. You might be hearing some noise, but it sure as hell is not det.
I have mapped tons of these, and I always have a mic with an amp connected directly to the engine block. Not a single one of my customers has ever heard anything ever, and it is not that loud using an amp and a direct mic.
1. Timing you see in VAG-COM is not backed off. You only see requested timing sent to the knock/ldr processor, and that backs off timing, you get the value before that happens in VAG-COM. Displayed requested timing does not change even during heavy knock.
2. You are assuming the car is running lean, you have not done anything to verify this as a fact.
3. You said the car boosts 0.8 bar on standard ECU. It should be boosting 1 bar. Use only the standard ECU, don't use a chipped one, as there is no telling what is inside it.Leave a comment:
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No. I've worked on various cars for 15 years, i was the only car there. It was pinking i'm sure, was just coming on boost next to an armco just as it hung back the pinking stopped.Sorry, but that's not happening. Only thing you can hear is wind noise with the windows down. You might be hearing some noise, but it sure as hell is not det.
I have mapped tons of these, and I always have a mic with an amp connected directly to the engine block. Not a single one of my customers has ever heard anything ever, and it is not that loud using an amp and a direct mic.
Its going down to Rich in late June anyway for him to look at, as, like i have said i'm too busy with customers cars to waste time on this one.Leave a comment:
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Sorry, but that's not happening. Only thing you can hear is wind noise with the windows down. You might be hearing some noise, but it sure as hell is not det.
I have mapped tons of these, and I always have a mic with an amp connected directly to the engine block. Not a single one of my customers has ever heard anything ever, and it is not that loud using an amp and a direct mic.
1. Timing you see in VAG-COM is not backed off. You only see requested timing sent to the knock/ldr processor, and that backs off timing, you get the value before that happens in VAG-COM. Displayed requested timing does not change even during heavy knock.
2. You are assuming the car is running lean, you have not done anything to verify this as a fact.
3. You said the car boosts 0.8 bar on standard ECU. It should be boosting 1 bar. Use only the standard ECU, don't use a chipped one, as there is no telling what is inside it.Last edited by prj; 23 May 2012, 10:21.Leave a comment:
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I never said that i saw it via vag com being retarded due to knock! I said i could see it back off and HEAR it pinking with the window down!!
I have now checked the fuel pressure 5 times with 3 different gauges and had shown correct every time. I have also carried out 3 pressure tests with no leaks found. TPS is showing WOT at WOT, Engine temp is 94-97 depending on speed, Air temp looks to be correct (around 34 degrees at 70-100 mph, gradually coming down)
I really have no time to properly look at the car now, and am struggling to look into anything on it now at all. I believe Rich (hoffer76) is forwarding on my logs for you to look over anyway. I'm coming to the point where i can earn more in the time that i am spending on it than it will cost to have a specialist look at it. But don't know how to send it to!! I have been to MRC . . . . . say no more!!!!Leave a comment:
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You won't see timing retard due to knock in VAG-COM.
Now re-evaluate everything you said with that in mind.
Reading through the thread, you make a lot of assumptions based on very little information. Even though you say "everything is checked and is working" I am pretty sure there is something fairly simple that is wrong.
Log all the temperature sensors in the car and see if they all show correct readings, for starters.Leave a comment:
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