catch tank solution???

[Nik0las]

Hi,

I would like to share your opinion over my idea for engine ventilation and draining oil back to the block. In my solution bottom of the catch tank is connected directly to the presure regulator valve of the block. So on paper in low rpms oil will be drain back to the block.

What you think about that?





Or better would be to drain it back to the sumb with small modification like in terrybullwon thread?

[JP]

Fit a fumoto valve and drain 19mm straight into that as an oil seperator then go to baffled catchtank to capture moisture before recirculating back into turbo. There is an extensive post regarding this allready

[Rocco]

And is there any problem using the original breather system with for example a 600 hp engine?

[Nik0las]

where is the thread?

[Jamo]

And is there any problem using the original breather system with for example a 600 hp engine?

Take your boost pipes off and check for that answer

[Nik0las]

Take your boost pipes off and check for that answer

[Rocco]

Take your boost pipes off and check for that answer

Full of oil true?

[Rocco]

Where is the reasonable hp limit using the OEM system then? 400?

[K Simmonds]

One of the main problems with the OE system on a standard engine is the condition on the pipe work, even the last of the S2's is 17 years old now and that's a long time for the rubber to last. I didn't price up new hose's but I bet their not cheap that's if you can even get them.

On my car which is coming up too 22 years old up one pipe had gone very soft, almost turned to mush and was pretty much blocked, another had holes in. So I've binned the lot and am in the process of fabricating a swirl pot followed by catch system as has been discussed many times on here, in the past and recently. I'm returning the oil from the swirl pot too the sump and the outlet from the catch tank to the OE breather pipe on the inlet as described by JP. Also adding another breather to the cam cover opposite the oil filer cap as the one on the back of the cover is not great on 3B's.

[Nik0las]

nobody can tell you for sure if you have oil in pipes you should consider upgrading

*However this fumoto valve it's a one way valve so it will not drain in a go from separator to the sumb it should be perofmed manually right?

[Jamo]

The limit of the oem system is the end of the factory production line it wasn't really designed for performance

[Rocco]

The limit of the oem system is the end of the factory production line it wasn't really designed for performance

Ok,at least it works well with rs2 and k26/27 turbos,that's something if the pipework it's ok

One of the main problems with the OE system on a standard engine is the condition on the pipe work, even the last of the S2's is 17 years old now and that's a long time for the rubber to last. I didn't price up new hose's but I bet their not cheap that's if you can even get them.

On my car which is coming up too 22 years old up one pipe had gone very soft, almost turned to mush and was pretty much blocked, another had holes in. So I've binned the lot and am in the process of fabricating a swirl pot followed by catch system as has been discussed many times on here, in the past and recently. I'm returning the oil from the swirl pot too the sump and the outlet from the catch tank to the OE breather pipe on the inlet as described by JP. Also adding another breather to the cam cover opposite the oil filer cap as the one on the back of the cover is not great on 3B's.

Roose motorsport sells them in silicone IIRC

[Jamo]

Silicone is poor choice as oil destroys them they must be fluoro lined to resist the oil vapour

[K Simmonds]

Silicone is poor choice as oil destroys them they must be fluoro lined to resist the oil vapour

Quite right, that's why I'm using proper Fluro lined oil hose. Got braided Stainless Steel stuff with cheap Black AN fittings which is kinda overkill but will look nice (IMO) and be 100% air tight.

[driftin jo]

The roose motorsport hoses are fluro lined