7A lost all power and doesn't start anymore

[newsh]

As I said before you need to check that the timing is correct and exactly on the marks.

Roll the car forward in gear or turn the crank clockwise until cyl 1 is at TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed on cylinder 1 nearest front of car), at this point the "0" (zero) mark will be visible in the bell housing window. If you go past the mark then keep turning untill it comes up again, this is to be sure you have taken up any backlash in the system. The cams and dizzy turn once for every 2 turns of the crank so make sure you're on compression stroke, this is where crank, cams and distributer should all line up.

Now look at the distributer, with the cap off you should see 2 marks, one on the body of the unit and one on the trigger wheel, they should line up exactly.

Finally the cam wheel has a mark on the back which should line up with the gasket surface on the cylinder head.

I think there is also a mark on the timing wheel which lines up with a mark on the belt cover to tell you that you're on the comp stroke.
There are images on here somewhere for the 3B timing marks but I can't find them on a quick search..

[newsh]

You need to block that small pipe off, its a boost leak and will be making the car run rich on boost.

[newsh]

Did the car used to have the battery under the hood? I wonder if that is the old battry ground I'm not sure if LHD coupe's have the battery in this position.

[Kyzyl]

My friend told me it would be the engine ground. But yes the battery used to be in front. I thank you so much for giving me such help, I wouldn't be making it without you guys.

[newsh]

Have a look and make sure you do have the engine ground, it will probably be a braided metal strap.

[mcandmar]

Alright, big wire is the ground connection from battery to engine block, your car would have originally had the battery under the bonnet so i can only assume that wire was replaced when the battery was removed. But dont assume anything, make sure it is there as without it the cranking current from the starter motor will fry every other eleectrical connection to the engine, i.e. specifically the ecu. It usually bolts to the bottom of the engine block just beside the sump, passenger side next to the starter motor.

The breather hose plug on the thottle body, and on the crank case breather should have joined together. But since your motor is now turbo charged i would remove that link and block both of them up or you will be pressurising the crank case while on boost.

[andy10v]

That looks like the vacum line to the fuel pressure regulator. (good to find it now, as otherise would be going lean under boost)


Plug may be from the Idle Stabilisation Valve, its in that area and the 034 kit deletes it.

The small crankcase vent should just be plugged, it will just blow oil everywhere, and if the catch tank is recirc into the intake after the maf it will let it suck in unmetered air.

I would follow Newshs advice to get the car to run though, the above issues should let the car start, but run like crap.

Who did the turbo conversion? It is probably worth going back to basics and checking over everything.

[Kyzyl]

I've got the car to a mechanic, he told me the ECU was fried because water went into it. Don't know if I keep going on trying to fix every little problem going on this engine and have fun for a while or wait and build my AAN laying in the garage and buy a VEMS whilst I'm at it.