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the car is at toms (audiman) garage having the cam belt done and a couple of other things and it was found the crank wheel pulley had a crack it in, shows that tom knows his stuff and is doing a very good job, something to keep in mind for the future
Pearl white 91-S2-3B K&N cone air filter - Home made induction pipe work - 18" RS4 replica alloys - Yokohama Parada Spec 2 rubber - Colour coded body work - Bilstein/H&R suspension - s/s 3in turbo back Longlife exhaust - SFS water hoses - Samco boost hoses - RS2 FARB - RS2 eyeballs - Squeaky interior trim & 2 bar!
What a nightmare this was It was all going really well, no broken/seized bolts or anything. When i undid the pulley bolt it wasnt all that tight, so i suspect that that is what caused it. Lucky that it didnt break really. I didnt dare risk using it again. New one will be ordered on Monday and then we can get it up and running.
If you want me to Matt, i could take a look at the running problem you are having too??
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Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
Audi UR Quattro
Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm
What a nightmare this was It was all going really well, no broken/seized bolts or anything. When i undid the pulley bolt it wasnt all that tight, so i suspect that that is what caused it. Lucky that it didnt break really. I didnt dare risk using it again. New one will be ordered on Monday and then we can get it up and running.
If you want me to Matt, i could take a look at the running problem you are having too??
yes if you could tom that would be great, just a small investigation into what you think might be the cause, possibly that wastegate frequency being connected?!
Pearl white 91-S2-3B K&N cone air filter - Home made induction pipe work - 18" RS4 replica alloys - Yokohama Parada Spec 2 rubber - Colour coded body work - Bilstein/H&R suspension - s/s 3in turbo back Longlife exhaust - SFS water hoses - Samco boost hoses - RS2 FARB - RS2 eyeballs - Squeaky interior trim & 2 bar!
They are good parts, only when the bolts are torqued up properly. Most of the mechanics out there torque them "by hand" and "by ear" until they think it's tight enough. Torque spec on that bolt is 450Nm with Audi's torque demultiplier, or about 500Nm without it. I personally use the alternative method: 210Nm+ 180 degrees, which is stated in one of the repair manuals as the alternative in case the torque wrench doesn't go above 210Nm. Never had a single problem using that torque spec so far.
Mihnea
'98 Silver Grey 2.7T S4, dual 2.75" turbo back exhaust with no cats, FMIC, BIG injectors, 10 Bar motorsport fuel pump, modded RS4 turbos, tubular exhaust manifolds, custom intakes, RS4 MAF, Bilstein PSS9, H&R ARBs, 19" BBS CH, custom remap, 511 BHP/505ft-lbs
Dont worry, I will torque it up properly. I have the correct tools for doing the job
I have recently had the bolt holding the pulley to the crank sheer. Was very lucky not to wave goodbye to the engine. Am I to understand that this has to be torqued to specification or risk failing?
Chris
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& 2 bar! 
It was all going really well, no broken/seized bolts or anything. When i undid the pulley bolt it wasnt all that tight, so i suspect that that is what caused it. Lucky that it didnt break really. I didnt dare risk using it again. New one will be ordered on Monday and then we can get it up and running.
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