00533 Idle speed control - Adaption limit not reached

[montez]

Had a look at the car again this afternoon, car started on first turn of the engine after been sat for 4 weeks. The Evap Solenoid fault has now gone using a resister and I am now getting 00533 fault on vagcom.

The car idles beautifully and sounds nice but as soon as I start putting some load though the engine the car starts missing/cutting out and the revs dropping.

I have previously changed the head, I am wondering if I may not have correctly aligned the distributor as I have heard that only a degree will cause mayhem.

Any ideas? starting points?

Cheers

[prj]

Pressure test it, most likely a boost leak.

[twoqu]

Not sure if you are using Vagcom or not but it would be useful to look at the few measurement blocks it has. Most of them appear to be concerned with idle specifications!
Distributor alignment issues usually throw up the hall sensor fault.

[irishs2]

When I moved my avant after a long period of inactivity, it would start and run, but as soon as I touched the accelerator it would cut out. I unplugged and refitted the maf plug and it was fine after that. Not saying its that, just relaying a similar experience.

[prj]

The ISV can also be seized after standing for a long time.
I don't think the MAF plug is very likely though.

[twoqu]

One cause, as Dmitri and the information indicates could be an air leak betwen the MAF and the ISV!
What does the car idle at in terms of rpm?

[montez]

It idles just under 1000rpm, I have checked for boost leaks but I am a bit suspect that the ISV may be sticking. I cleaned out the ISV before I put it back together with carb cleaner. The MAF is relatively new and I have replaced the pins in the last 3 months

[twoqu]

Is that warm?
That code also relates to too high an idle I think. Thats why I was asking. The car is supposed to idle at 820/830 rpm. Unless its getting an aircon on signal then it would be +100rpm or so.
Could be stuck ISV. Try the output tests to confirm. As I said in the other post I am not sure that resistor bodge is a good idea. Perhaps its better to try it without that!

[twoqu]

Another possibility is the plumbing! If you have had the car apart it seems from 220bhp's experience its possible to mix up some of the breather piping. He had an high idle and the car would misbehave off idle.
I know we always look to electrical bits when we see the codes and tend to overlook the more basic!

[220bhp]

Twoqu is right,my problem was the two smaller hoses from the PCV,that go round the back of the head where on the wrong way round.My car had never run right,it had been that way since I bought it. Every time I had the head of I put them back as I found them.
Its like a bag of snakes at the back of the head so its hard to define without taking the Im of,this is how the problem was found.
If its a 3b you can check the distributor timing much easier with IM of,its quite a quick and easy job with the right tools. I whish I had done that sooner,it would have saved me a mountain of time.
By the way if the distributor is out of alighnment you won't get any boost.but the car will run.

[SteveH]

i had the same problem you are describing after putting my engine back in recently...I'd left the Maf connector off

[montez]

The PVC has one long hose and one short hose. The long goes to the rear of the rocker cover and the other one of similar diameter goes to the EVAP solenoid which I have deleted. The larger one goes to the metal pipe to the maf. I have checked all the connectors but will re check tomorrow and do another pressure test. I looked at the ISV and it is sticking occasionally when I fully open it up.

[newsh]

ISV is best cleaned with WD40 not a solvent.

[twoqu]

If you have removed the evap how have you plumbed it back in?

[montez]

I cleaned with carb cleaner then flushed with wd40, it has a slight burr on the lip which is catching. The vacuum to the evap was blocked/removed with fuel tank venting to atmosphere. I have been sorted out with an isv so will have a good crack at the car this weekend.