Shells, mains and rings...

[popdemonic]

I still can't make up my mind which one i would get for the big time overhauled my AAN.

[europeanme]

KS mains and OEM big end...make sure you get the right ones though Andy.....its a bit of a minefield out there

[Ruffiano]

when i overhauled my engine, i used Gotze rings, and calico coated mains and rod bearings

[Error404]

I just ordered some bearings from Kolbenschmidt (All standard size)

Sputtered big end bearings: 77244600
Triple layer main bearings: 87454600
Thrust bearings: 78639600

[Rusty]

Were those the part numbers that you were told to order or ones that you've found on their online catalogue? I see they're all available from the OEM Parts store, is this where you got them? Just need to get the piston ring part numbers to complete the set. Be good to put OEM and Glyco part numbers on there.

TZR Motorsport, where I ordered my clutch, do Glyco big ends for 99 euro.

[irishs2]

Should I be worried that nobody mentioned ACL Race?

[Rusty]

I think FCP Engineering sell those...

[Rusty]

Glyco Part Numbers:-

[Rusty]

Are KS 800001011000 the correct piston rings?

[Error404]

Were those the part numbers that you were told to order or ones that you've found on their online catalogue?

I used the info from the KS catalogue. They only list the sputters for the big ends. There are two types of mains on offer, the cheaper set is the standard twin layer, the more expensive triple layer is what I went for. Ordered from www.oemparts.co.uk

[stocious]

arnt there tapered and non tapered rings, or maybe just tapered top ring, sorry i cant recall but i think it was on here i read that,

good luck with your build

[Error404]

Are KS 800001011000 the correct piston rings?

That p/n is a single piston set (3 rings) - that uses the tapered moly inlay top compression ring.

There is also 800001012000 which again is a single piston set but uses a rectangular chrome faced top compression ring.

From what I know the chrome faced rings are harder to seat but supposedly last for life, BUT I believe the chrome can chip off them and cause problems with high cylinder temps / pressure (i.e. lots of boost) so I think the moly ones are the best option as they seat nicely whilst still lasting 180k + miles like the OEM ones.

HTH

[Error404]

Just had a call back from KS, the thrust washers are not available until August apparently, so I might go OEM on those, provided they have stock or not NLA, or maybe just wait until August as I probably won't be building up the bottom end for a few weeks yet anyway

[Rusty]

A secondhand block isn't going to last forever before it needs a bore so the tapered ones sound like a safer bet. Anyway, 2-3k a year, 180k is more than I'll be driving for LOL