Good point Lou.
You can block the hose to the wastegate, so that it does not hiss.
A minute amount of air will otherwise escape through the wastegate to the exhaust and cause a slight hissing sound. All stock wastegates hiss, otherwise they would seize when they heat up.
This is optional though, as it makes very little difference to the speed of the boost escaping, just it is nice to have it quiet if you are listening for audible leaks.
Low boost, high fuel consumption and 00561 fault
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Dmitri, didn't you also block the hose to the waste gate when you did my car.
Or was that just for your special customers
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Absolutely true abou those vacuum lines.
I'm now replacing all the little hoses connected to the rear of the IM since they are all gone hard and perished. Also that one way valve towards aircon recirc and diff/lock should be checked and can cause boost loss.Leave a comment:
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You do not need to block off the throttle body!
That's a horrible idea, because 99% of boost leaks are from the vacuums and other systems connected to the inlet manifold. I don't even know who ever came up with blocking the throttle body, but they should be shot.
I have received a numerous amount of cars for mapping where the owner claims it's leak leak free by plugging the throttle body and in fact it won't hold any pressure from the inlet manifold.
All you need is:
* Remove MAF, plug it with a bung that has a tire nipple in it.
* Remove the PCV hose from the MAF to Turbo hose and block it on the MAF-Turbo hose end, leave the other end be.
That's it. Do NOT plug anything else, as else you will not find leaks.Leave a comment:
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I have same error in my RS2 but not have problems of performance.Leave a comment:
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But Baldrick's plans were *sly* and cunning *AND* involved the all important turnip. This is your problem, no turnip.
Well in this case, no pressure. It is a BOOST pressure test, not a vacuum test.
Read this again, I am pretty sure it says pressurize the system to about 15 psig (1 Bar(ish)) for the test.
Yes it does: "Testing for boost leaks involves introducing controlled pressure, i.e. 10 to 15 psi from an air compressor into a non-running engine, with a pressure testing bung, such as shown in the diagram below and various other hoses plugged off (as appropriate to that test). "Leave a comment:
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If the car is idling and you are checking the intake would be under vacuum, so it would suck stuff in.Leave a comment:
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I didn't do a full boost test with the kit, I just wiped all the boost hoses that I could reach with a soapy cloth then ran the car, on the basis that anything leaking would show up with bubbles.Leave a comment:
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Which parts of the inlet tract did you pressurize?
How long did it take to drop from 0.5 bar to zero once you stopped putting air in?Leave a comment:
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Well I went out and painted as much as I could reach with soapy water and I didn't get any froth, certainly not off the michelin man pipe. There is a ticking at the back of the engine bay thoug, no idea if this is related. Thanks for all the help guys, at least I can start crossing stuff off the list.Leave a comment:


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