You can change the style the forum displays by selecting your preferred style at the bottom left of the site.
We have made an enhancement so that old threads should now link from search results to the correct thread. This is not yet in place for single post links
Yeah I understood that Got it tightened as it should but the bolt on the crank I can't get tightened to specs with my tools I got it to 200Nm and then did another 90-100 degrees but I got no chance of getting the last 80 degrees on it. I broke two extensions now... I'm not even sure I could manage to do the last 80 if I got bigger tools as I'm already using a 170cm arm to put force on it and hanging on the end with 90-100kg pressure while trying to "shake it" makes the tools I use crack.
In my haste I forgot to put NOT put the key under any stress!
I doubt whether you want to ruin that pulley! I guess you understood about the need to counterhold it somehow.
Ok doing that comparison I can clearly see that the hall window is offset. Here is the key and the mark on the outer ring ligned up and the difference seems to be the hall window. A comparison of the pictures of the back side should still be done to get it 100% but it shows really good doing it this way.
Yeah found it in the AAN workshop manual. I also noticed that a DIY manual said 200Nm+180 degrees on the crank bolt but in the AAN manual it said 350Nm w/spanner and 450Nm without. I don't have a torque tool that goes past 210Nm tho so will have to use the DIY spec of 200Nm+180degrees. Let me know if that will be wrong
Will do a comparison like you said now when I go to the garage. I'll update once I've done it.
It says 65NM for the AAN. Don't forget to hold the pulley stationary so that you are putting the key under stress!
A quick non scientific anaylsis seems to imply that the slot on the rotor is in a different place which is what we had hoped for.
Just quickly compare them by aligning the TDC mark and placing one other the other. That should indicate whether the keyway is in a different position or the inner rotor ring.
If you grabbed those manuals the torque should be in there maybe in one of the exploded diagrams. Should be the same on all variants ABY/ADU/AAN.
All we have to do then is wait for Dave to draw his red lines all over the pic then we will have solved another RS2 myth. So if it not different then at least you have contributed something back in which is more than some do! You will also receive a credit from Dave.
Alright All the parts I ordered have now arrived. Just picked them up and are in to search for the specification of how hard the cam pulley is to be tightened again (how many Nm, found it, 65Nm). Took a picture of the new pulley if you guys want to do a comparison. I will try to do it later on but need to see if I can put the car together and if everything works now with these new parts.
Comparing with both parts in my hands I can't really tell the difference on the pulleys but I do hope there are some or all this is a waste
Welcome to the wonderful world of S/RS2 ownership!
The four rings on the grill represent the number of zeros added to the amount you thought you were going to spend.
Hehe It's not only with S/RS2! My allroad has the same formula I think.
Yeah I should have done the readout first but i didn't get the plug before today and I didn't plan to do this swap at all. The plan was to change the oil seal on the crank but then I noticed that the timing was off and this problem showed up. Along the way I also found a leaking servo pump so that's why it's removed atm.
There is no point in doing it other than satisfying myself with getting a fault message cleared just hope I don't get the message now that I put the correct pulley back on.
Welcome to the wonderful world of S/RS2 ownership!
The four rings on the grill represent the number of zeros added to the amount you thought you were going to spend.
So it need to be in a plausible position according to what the ecu expects. Oviously that is a heavily modified example but the principle is the same.
Just to clarify my issue was with fitting an RS2 exhaust cam to my ABY setup, and setting it up with a variable cam pulley rather than an RS2 one.
Even with experienced guys we ended up going through the same discussions as the previous few pages
Setting up the variable pulley took several attempts to get it in the right location, given that we didn't have an RS2 one to compare against. Placing it in the wrong location and having the window out didn't cause any problems that might damage the car, it just meant it didn't boost correctly by retarding the ignition timing.
The gear-shift issue was because we had it very slightly out of the window, so the belt-flat on gear-shift caused the ECU to trip out without logging an error
Yeah I should have done the readout first but i didn't get the plug before today and I didn't plan to do this swap at all. The plan was to change the oil seal on the crank but then I noticed that the timing was off and this problem showed up. Along the way I also found a leaking servo pump so that's why it's removed atm.
There is no point in doing it other than satisfying myself with getting a fault message cleared just hope I don't get the message now that I put the correct pulley back on.
Obviously had a fault code been stored then it might have given us a clue. Can't see the point of reasembly just to try and prove something that is irrelevant now. We have determined it has the ABY/AAN pulley so its never going to be right until that has been corrected.
I can assemble it again and start it to get a readout for fun. I can start the engine without the servo/tandem pump mounted right (all the hoses are open)?
Ah! I think in that case you have erased the fault code memory so we will never know!
Out of interest the blue plug is a legacy for blinking out codes. That 00513 code will always appear without the ngine running.
Should have read the ecu for faults before starting to take it apart in hindsight . Anyway lets hope the new stuff sorts your issue out.
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Got it tightened as it should but the bolt on the crank I can't get tightened to specs with my tools 
I got it to 200Nm and then did another 90-100 degrees but I got no chance of getting the last 80 degrees on it. I broke two extensions now... I'm not even sure I could manage to do the last 80 if I got bigger tools as I'm already using a 170cm arm to put force on it and hanging on the end with 90-100kg pressure while trying to "shake it" makes the tools I use crack. 
just hope I don't get the message now that I put the correct pulley back on.
Leave a comment: