RS2 not running clean at WOT with boost

[twoqu]

It also looks as bad earthing could play a part in both the Lambda and the memory issue. If you have not disturbed the lambda and the wiring during you works then perhaps it is something you have disturbed if you see what I mean. Have you checked the tightness of those earths on the inlet post rebuild?

[twoqu]

Might be worth using the measuring blocks to see if the Lambda is functioning with the engine running. Its outlined in the Workshop manuals. You can quickly check to see whats out of wack.

[minim]

I see you still have that memory error! The numbers after the fault code will help identification. Just need to research what they mean. Not sure I have seen that Lambda no signal one before.

Yeah. I didn't delete any codes yet either so some of them could be old.

The 00525 can be a lot of things.. From the aby motronic workshop manual:

-Open circuit in wiring to -J220
-Probe heater not operating.
-Fuse S25 (probe heater) faulty.
-Heating resistor in probe faulty.
-Wiring of probe heater.
-Short circuit of signal wire to earth.
-Short circuit of signal wire to screening.
-Fuel tank empty, at least 10ltr.
-Fuel system pressure.
-Failure of spark plugs, ignition coils and ignition output stages.
-Ingress of air to -G70
-Leak in exhaust system up to catalyst.
-Faulty lambda probe.
-Open circuit in earth cabel to contact 10, -J220 to engine block.

I'm leaning towards this... Also because "08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent" kinda shows that it's having a to rich mixture (no spark?). I could hook up a wide band lambda tomorrow to double check it but I'm not sure how much it would really tell?

Tempted to go and fetch a kit to use 1.8T (115D coils) and 5x 115D coils tomorrow. A dealer close to me has them in stock for only $530. Seems to be a lot cheaper than the original ones...

[twoqu]

I see you still have that memory error! The numbers after the fault code will help identification. Just need to research what they mean. Not sure I have seen that Lambda no signal one before.

[minim]

Any fault codes?

Yeah plenty Totally forgot to do a readout. Here it goes.

Tuesday,20,August,2013,22:55:03:08464
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.6 (x64)
Data version: 20121223


Chassis Type: 8C - Audi 80/S2 B4
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 25

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No: 8A0 907 551 B
Component: 2,2l R5 MOTR.RHV RS2D03
VCID: 264348F7C2C61D287A7

5 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-00 - -
00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation
08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39)
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-10 - - - Intermittent
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
03-00 - No Signal
Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4A0-907-379.lbl
Part No: 4A0 907 379
Component: Bremsen-Elektronik
Shop #: BB 37175
VCID: E8DF86CF88524B5808B

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 8A0 820 043 E
Component: Klima-Vollautomat D51
Coding: 00050
Shop #: WSC 07234
VCID: 1F4D5D139D9CCCE0391

1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

[twoqu]

Any fault codes?

[minim]

What is the sealing paste?

It was a sealing paste that didn't need to harden and it even said on the box that it was for injector inserts so I think it should work. There was no leak at the injectors now after I tested it when I got it all back together.

The firetrap may be quite far up the PCV pipe (between the big T-piece from the block & back of the head), i had to push a wire with a hook up there and fish it out. Its a flame catcher, Audi found a reason to put one in there so I'd say worth replacing if its missing.

Have you checked for ignition problems? If the coils or POS are giving up, resulting in a weak spark, it would give you running problems as you come on boost, more severe the more boost pressure your making. Saw that on my old avant before i replaced the coil packs.

Oh ok. I will get a new one before I open in again to search for it then so I got one to put in just in case it isn't there.

No I haven't checked for this yet as I'm sorting out problems as I find them It was first the cam pulley that I found when originally searching for a oil leak and now this air leak. After I got the air leaks away I will go on with ignition and/or MAF I think. Really tempting to go for the 1.8 turbo coils and swap them now just to see since I'm going offshore for work in a little under a week and it would be fun to find out of this problem before I head off :X

Check to see its not actually stuck in the PCV valve itself! Could have been removed but as Ross said may have migrated around the pipework.

Will search some more


Aaaaand now for ending this injector leak problem. I assembled everything and did a new pressure test and was happy to see that the injectors was not leaking. Was not happy to see that there was a tiny tiny leak on the whole inlet manifold but I think this is related to fitting a few gasket and not warming/cooling the engine a few times so the gasket can "get set" but will check this later. Also found that my ISV was leaking



And of course I had to do some more testing to see if the problem was fixed even if the ISV was leaking. It was even worse! Now it's not just sometimes in the register from 3500rpm to 7000rpm that it's hesitating it's the whole way and a lot. I put together some of my earlier test videos and some test from now to compare. The weird thing is that if I slowly increase throttle it pulls a lot more than If I give wide open throttle. I hope the videos are not all waste and that it can help some for you more experienced guys to see what the problem could be.

I'll explain the video.
clip 1 - Testing before I fixed the air leak on the injectors and after I put on the right cam pulley. As you can see it pulls quite good but it hesitates sometimes in the registrer from 3500-6000 and worst at around 5000 but this varies from time to time.
clip 2 - After I fixed the air leak on the injectors and with wide open throttle 2.gear like the first clip. Now it hesitates all the way from 3500 and up.
clip 3 - Test just after clip2 but now I increase the throttle slowly and it's almost no hesitation or problems at all.
clip 4 - Giving throttle for a short while but still it uses a lot of time to get down to idle again. I wonder if this is some related to the air leak at the ISV.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTJCw64MpUE

[twoqu]

Check to see its not actually stuck in the PCV valve itself! Could have been removed but as Ross said may have migrated around the pipework.

[Ross]

The firetrap may be quite far up the PCV pipe (between the big T-piece from the block & back of the head), i had to push a wire with a hook up there and fish it out. Its a flame catcher, Audi found a reason to put one in there so I'd say worth replacing if its missing.

Have you checked for ignition problems? If the coils or POS are giving up, resulting in a weak spark, it would give you running problems as you come on boost, more severe the more boost pressure your making. Saw that on my old avant before i replaced the coil packs.

[UrS4boy]

What is the sealing paste?

[minim]

Also tested the one-way valve in the crank ventilation system and the one I had installed was working as it should. I did replace it anyways since I had a new one here.

Checked for that fire-thingie but it's not installed at all. Does that really need to be there? If so I should get me a new one ^^

[minim]

Exciting job!!

Can you submit a few photos of how it looks with the old ones still in place and also once new ones are fitted??

Maybe its already too late.....

It's not so exciting trust me But it will be fun if this is what's causing the troubles!

You got me just in time for when I started to fit the new ones in so on request I took some photos. Have in mind that I'm no mechanic so don't use these photos as how it should be done, this is just how I've done it

Some booring cleaning work had to be done before I started to work at the inlet manifold.


A picture showing how the old insert looked like. There was no sealant or ptfe tape installed to the ones that where in. They where also loose so I could take them out with my hands without a allen key.


A picture how it looks before putting them in.


New insert from the side that is supposed to go down into the inlet manifold.


Here a insert with sealant paste and pfte tape ready to be installed into the inlet manifold.


A picture showing the inserts installed into the manifold from the side turning out.


A picture showing the inserts installed into the manifold from the inside.

[RS2 driver]

Exciting job!!

Can you submit a few photos of how it looks with the old ones still in place and also once new ones are fitted??

Maybe its already too late.....

[minim]

Not sure there is a spec for them. Audi would have thought the car would have died years before replacement was necessary. Tight enough not to leak. Just stick a new one in without sealant to see how far down it is when seated. That should give you a reference point.
The RS2 inlet is just a rebadged ABY one so the values for the bolts should be ok!

Hehe. Well the ones that where in there wasn't even tightened up (I took them out with my hands) so I don't think I can look at how far down they where fit before but will see how it is when I do it like you said. After some thought I think I will use PTFE tape on the threads and sealant on the bottom part of it as I'm not sure how the sealant will hold the pressure at the threads. Hopefully this isn't to stupid

[twoqu]

Not sure there is a spec for them. Audi would have thought the car would have died years before replacement was necessary. Tight enough not to leak. Just stick a new one in without sealant to see how far down it is when seated. That should give you a reference point.
The RS2 inlet is just a rebadged ABY one so the values for the bolts should be ok!