RS2 not running clean at WOT with boost

[minim]

Primarily the bleed valve is to prevent systems that normally only see vacuum getting a blast of boost. The PCV valve does not close completely as it has a smaller orrifice in it to limit the flow when under boost.
Whilst not encouraging you to throw money at it, basically you might as well consider replacement if you are removing the inlet. You can then also play hunt the flame arrester and clean it. It will be all gunked up if its there. That way you should be confident the PCV system is ok.

You are prolly right. Checked the price on online-teile.com now and it's actually just $40 for those two valves if I checked the correct ones. Better off just replacing them as it cost more in time to not do it while the intake is off ^^

[minim]

WARNING!
If you attempt to replace the injector inserts on the vehicle they may break and fall into the engine. Its more work but the safest method is to remove the inlet manifold. Might as well do all five then!
You should leave the engine breather open but plug the hole in the MAF hose. Anyhow it has exposed one of the overlooked places when searching for leaks.

All the parts are now ordered and will be picked up tomorrow at my dealer but got kinda curious with this. Is the inserts glued or how are they attached to the vehicle since it was easy to break them? In case it's a special way to install them, are there any guides out there?

I ordered gasket for the intake manifold so that's coming off so I don't get parts falling into my engine.

[Rusty]

I did injector inserts a few months ago and one of them snapped. Not fun removing bits of plastic from above the valves

You fit them with a 10mm Allen key and some oil resistant black instant gasket, I used loctite branded sump gasket.

[minim]

I did injector inserts a few months ago and one of them snapped. Not fun removing bits of plastic from above the valves

You fit them with a 10mm Allen key and some oil resistant black instant gasket, I used loctite branded sump gasket.

Glad I got the headsup then so I don't have to go in that trap also.

Was it Locktite 5900 like this one? http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct...ID=1000000IYGE

Edit:
Seems I don't have any locktite dealer around so just going to pick a oil resistant instant gasket that can withstand 300 degrees.

[twoqu]

You might get lucky and they come out in one piece. Just need to clean the threads as best as possible.
Another alternative to gasket sealer is ptfe tape used for plumbing. They really shouldn't need to come out again in the cars remaining lifetime unless damaged.

[minim]

You might get lucky and they come out in one piece. Just need to clean the threads as best as possible.
Another alternative to gasket sealer is ptfe tape used for plumbing. They really shouldn't need to come out again in the cars remaining lifetime unless damaged.

Ok. I'm not sure what's the best choice. The gasket sealer I know is specced for lasting 350 degrees now that I checked but the pfte tape I have doesn't have any spec's for heat so I'm not sure how that is going to be after some months with on/off heat.

When I was removing the inlet manifold I also had to remove the pressure hose that goes to the MAP sensor and that one didn't take much stress A picture of how it looked when I put some force on it trying to take it off. Wouldn't be surprised if this had some leaks also that I didn't notice when I was testing. Will look up on what kind of hoses I need and replace those as they seemed to have done their job in this car.

[UrS4boy]

When I was removing the inlet manifold I also had to remove the pressure hose that goes to the MAP sensor and that one didn't take much stress A picture of how it looked when I put some force on it trying to take it off.

Well the good news is the clamp clearly was doing its part and stayed firmly in place. Bad news is you didn't even try to open the clamp up so the hose could potentially be pulled off in one piece.

I don't have the proper Oetiker clamp tools but I have found that if I open (loosen) the clamp with an awl (see below) in the clamp "eye", I can later close it again with pincher pliers (see second photo):

[minim]

Well the good news is the clamp clearly was doing its part and stayed firmly in place. Bad news is you didn't even try to open the clamp up so the hose could potentially be pulled off in one piece.

I don't have the proper Oetiker clamp tools but I have found that if I open (loosen) the clamp with an awl (see below) in the clamp "eye", I can later close it again with pincher pliers (see second photo):

I was opening them with a flat skrewdriver that I turned around once I got it in. Worked quit fine in the two others I removed first but here it snapped off without much force will get me new clamps and hoses when I go to pickup the new parts tomorrow and a tool to put them on with.

[minim]

Does anyone remember how many Nm torque to be used on the 6mm allen bolts for the inlet manifold? In the AAN workshop manual it only says " Intake manifold, use allen socket V.A.G 1669 to remove and install" and nothing about torque for the bolts.

Same goes for the inserts for the injectors. I kinda fear to overtorque them as it's only plastic ^^ Will continue to search trough the manuals

Edit: can i use ABY specs of 25Nm. Not sure if it's the same bolts.. Also the aby motronic workshop manual is missing the torque for the plastic inserts.

[twoqu]

Not sure there is a spec for them. Audi would have thought the car would have died years before replacement was necessary. Tight enough not to leak. Just stick a new one in without sealant to see how far down it is when seated. That should give you a reference point.
The RS2 inlet is just a rebadged ABY one so the values for the bolts should be ok!

[minim]

Not sure there is a spec for them. Audi would have thought the car would have died years before replacement was necessary. Tight enough not to leak. Just stick a new one in without sealant to see how far down it is when seated. That should give you a reference point.
The RS2 inlet is just a rebadged ABY one so the values for the bolts should be ok!

Hehe. Well the ones that where in there wasn't even tightened up (I took them out with my hands) so I don't think I can look at how far down they where fit before but will see how it is when I do it like you said. After some thought I think I will use PTFE tape on the threads and sealant on the bottom part of it as I'm not sure how the sealant will hold the pressure at the threads. Hopefully this isn't to stupid

[RS2 driver]

Exciting job!!

Can you submit a few photos of how it looks with the old ones still in place and also once new ones are fitted??

Maybe its already too late.....

[minim]

Exciting job!!

Can you submit a few photos of how it looks with the old ones still in place and also once new ones are fitted??

Maybe its already too late.....

It's not so exciting trust me But it will be fun if this is what's causing the troubles!

You got me just in time for when I started to fit the new ones in so on request I took some photos. Have in mind that I'm no mechanic so don't use these photos as how it should be done, this is just how I've done it

Some booring cleaning work had to be done before I started to work at the inlet manifold.


A picture showing how the old insert looked like. There was no sealant or ptfe tape installed to the ones that where in. They where also loose so I could take them out with my hands without a allen key.


A picture how it looks before putting them in.


New insert from the side that is supposed to go down into the inlet manifold.


Here a insert with sealant paste and pfte tape ready to be installed into the inlet manifold.


A picture showing the inserts installed into the manifold from the side turning out.


A picture showing the inserts installed into the manifold from the inside.

[minim]

Also tested the one-way valve in the crank ventilation system and the one I had installed was working as it should. I did replace it anyways since I had a new one here.

Checked for that fire-thingie but it's not installed at all. Does that really need to be there? If so I should get me a new one ^^

[UrS4boy]

What is the sealing paste?