RS2 not running clean at WOT with boost

[minim]

That sounds like just the earth for the coils. If you face the engine, under the inlet manifold at the rear should be some cables attached.
Have you orientated the DV correctly?
Data logging does exist I think but that might mean considering the ecu upgrade sooner than you think! Obviously if the car has a fault that effects it then its better to troubleshoot it before you put any more stress on it. Once its performing as it should and you get used to it, I guess you might be interested in more!

Yeah it was earth for the coils I meant. Will have a look there.

I think so. I oriented it so that the pressure comes onto the "spring" and get's released on the side of it.. I found the picture below on google now just to demonstrate the way it was mounted (don't look at the rest there). Will it even give a difference in performance mounted the wrong way?



Well I do have a megasquirt kit lying around that I soldered up last winter. I could actually hook that up just to log values (not controlling outputs). Still missing sensors tho but there is a MAP sensor built in on the board if I recall correctly so then the turbo pressure could be logged atleast. Also have a broad band lambda sond with two outputs that I could put in. Will def. look into this in my next period off work as it would be cool to have accurate logs for later also.

The car will not be used anymore until I can find out what this is. I also got a weird sound in it after doing the pulley change and it sounds like it's coming from the crank pulley. Prolly me forgetting to adjust that hall sensor I guess so will have a look at that tonight if my GF let's me out there again

Hehe I had that thing before but I got motorcycles to cure that disease as it's a lot cheaper to get a motorcycle to perform This will be a car built back to how it was delivered from Audi and then used on sunny days when not resting in the garage.

[UrS4boy]

I found the picture below on google now just to demonstrate the way it was mounted (don't look at the rest there). Will it even give a difference in performance mounted the wrong way?

Google. Yup. That is a better resource than anything here on this forum.

If you would just click on the diverter valve label in this link:

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

you'd find this (and a bunch more):

[twoqu]

In the side out the bottom is how I remember it! It can be fitted either way obviously but as we are trying to troubleshoot it might be better to orientate it as Audi designed it!

[twoqu]

http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/dump_valve/dump_valve_pic6.jpg

[minim]

Google. Yup. That is a better resource than anything here on this forum.

If you would just click on the diverter valve label in this link:

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

you'd find this (and a bunch more):

Ooooh I fitted it the wrong way then! Damn, have to get used to all the good resources on this forum!

In the side out the bottom is how I remember it! It can be fitted either way obviously but as we are trying to troubleshoot it might be better to orientate it as Audi designed it!

It's the wrong way then.. Will put it the other way around first thing tomorrow morning. What could be is that when the spring can't hold the pressure anymore it releases air back into the intake again but doubt it. Anyways like you said it's best to orientate it as Audi designed it. I just put it in like the aftermarket valve was and didn't put more thought to it as I should with this car (wrong cam pulley and now wrong way resirk valve)...

[pixsaudisex2]

I found my dump valve had well bust broke and was totally
Took me a while to find it..

[minim]

I refit the valve as it was designed to be fitted and I still have the same problems.

Then it was back to the leak theory and making a safe connection to the air hose. As I'm training a bit on welding I decided to just use bits I had lying around and try to make something that could work and was strong enough to hold the pressure. Still a lot of training left for welding but I was able to secure it properly to the hose and apply pressure to it. Was a lot better than the plastic one I made from pipes earlier that I feared would pop off if I put 1bar pressure on it.



And when I applied 1 bar to it this was the only thing I could spot leaking. I also heard air coming trough the engine as the oil was "bubbling" but I don't know if that's normal or what? I had the breather hose from intake to the vent on the valve cover disconnected and blocked during the test but I guess the air found it's way trough cylinders/valves or somewhere else.



Also shot a short video of it to show how much it was. I detected it on 3 injectors. Think I had approx 1bar when I started to capture this but I left the compressor off so the pressure fell towards the end. http://youtu.be/7LzHKElK_Ug

[minim]

First guess Is that I need these parts for the 3x injectors that are leaking or is it enough with just the O-rings? Is this enough to get the system so much out of balance?

034133555 insert for injector
035906149A o-ring

[twoqu]

WARNING!
If you attempt to replace the injector inserts on the vehicle they may break and fall into the engine. Its more work but the safest method is to remove the inlet manifold. Might as well do all five then!
You should leave the engine breather open but plug the hole in the MAF hose. Anyhow it has exposed one of the overlooked places when searching for leaks.

[minim]

WARNING!
If you attempt to replace the injector inserts on the vehicle they may break and fall into the engine. Its more work but the safest method is to remove the inlet manifold. Might as well do all five then!
You should leave the engine breather open but plug the hole in the MAF hose. Anyhow it has exposed one of the overlooked places when searching for leaks.

Ooh.. Will def. do this careful then. Yeah if I'm taking of the inlet manifold I'm doing all five at once since I will have to get a new gasket for that one also.

The breather was open from the valve cover and I also had the plug for oil filling left open just to be sure pressure could not build up inside the engine and ruin any seals. Guess that isn't a big problem at 1bar anyways but better safe than sorry.

[UrS4boy]

And when I applied 1 bar to it this was the only thing I could spot leaking. I also heard air coming trough the engine as the oil was "bubbling" but I don't know if that's normal or what? I had the breather hose from intake to the vent on the valve cover disconnected and blocked during the test but I guess the air found it's way trough cylinders/valves or somewhere else.

Your bleeder valve (item 20 below) might be dead, allowing boost into the PCV system.

PVC system info:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22506.phtml

Bleeder valve:

[minim]

Your bleeder valve (item 20 below) might be dead, allowing boost into the PCV system.

If I got this correctly now the non-return valve should be closed so that air doesn't get from the intake manifold and over to where the pipe comes out at the side of the valve cover BUT vented air should get out this hose on the valve cover coming from the crankcase ventilation system? How can I tell where the air is going?

I guess I have to remove the non-return valve and check that while it's out and then refit that if it's ok. With everything assembled again I can see if the pressure control/regulator valve is working with seeing that air comes out from the valve cover pipe when I put pressure into the system again.

[UrS4boy]

...I guess I have to remove the non-return valve and check that while it's out and then refit that if it's ok. With everything assembled again I can see if the pressure control/regulator valve is working with seeing that air comes out from the valve cover pipe when I put pressure into the system again.

If you remove the one-way, non-return, bleeder valve I guarantee that boost test air will go through the PCV system and come out of the vent tube on the cam cover. Not really much need for the test. If you get air coming out of the cam vent, then you have bleeder valve issue. Solution: Replace bleeder valve.

[minim]

If you remove the one-way, non-return, bleeder valve I guarantee that boost test air will go through the PCV system and come out of the vent tube on the cam cover. Not really much need for the test. If you get air coming out of the cam vent, then you have bleeder valve issue. Solution: Replace bleeder valve.

I don't get a direct high pressure out from the breather line. I would have noticed that but I guess some pressure is coming out there since some pressure will get into the engine and if the breather system are working some should come out that way and not in the intake since the intake is under pressure. Will do a quick check tomorrow morning before I order parts for the injectors.

[twoqu]

Primarily the bleed valve is to prevent systems that normally only see vacuum getting a blast of boost. The PCV valve does not close completely as it has a smaller orrifice in it to limit the flow when under boost.
Whilst not encouraging you to throw money at it, basically you might as well consider replacement if you are removing the inlet. You can then also play hunt the flame arrester and clean it. It will be all gunked up if its there. That way you should be confident the PCV system is ok.