Low power down low \ Black smoke \ stuttering \ hunting idle \ all things fun

[UrS4boy]

At a minimum you should install a boost gauge, just have it in the glovebox if you're worried about mounting it anywhere. Forgot.. are you melb or nz?

Jesse: He is in New Zealand

...at the moment i"m going with the devil you know... and there is only 1 other RS2 in Wellington (where I live ) and Audi service this as well and this is meant to be running properly....

[K Simmonds]

If I was in your position, ie running an RS4 and an RS2 and having the problems your experiencing I'd invest in a proper Ross-tech version of VAG-COM and fit an accurate boost gauge. I'm a complete Miffy when it comes to operating anything with buttons containing microchips and even I can use it with some proficiency, it's very user friendly.

Buy a good quality 2x2-OBD2 adapter to go with the proper Ross-tech cable so it's impossible to plug it in incorrectly and you can't really go wrong. If you use a cheapy 2x2 adapter it's theoretically possible to get the polarity of the power supply the wrong way around which will kill your lead.

Hope you get this sorted without too much bother.

[weta.worker]

Actually, re-reading the symptoms, it could also be a boost leak after the MAF causing the rich-running due to missing air that the MAF told the ECU expect.

Try this: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...e+leak+testing

thanks! i'll take a look at this

I think its just time to get my hands dirty and start learning more so I spend less (and knowing more is good!)

need to find some time as we're so busy at work and 3 kids at home time is a luxury I don't have at the mo.

[weta.worker]

If I was in your position, ie running an RS4 and an RS2 and having the problems your experiencing I'd invest in a proper Ross-tech version of VAG-COM and fit an accurate boost gauge. I'm a complete Miffy when it comes to operating anything with buttons containing microchips and even I can use it with some proficiency, it's very user friendly.

Buy a good quality 2x2-OBD2 adapter to go with the proper Ross-tech cable so it's impossible to plug it in incorrectly and you can't really go wrong. If you use a cheapy 2x2 adapter it's theoretically possible to get the polarity of the power supply the wrong way around which will kill your lead.

Hope you get this sorted without too much bother.

Thanks! this sounds like a good idea. I'll do some Internet shopping

[weta.worker]

update. the car has been a real pig up until this morning

I drove it home yesterday with the usual frustration, smoke, stuttering, bogging down in low revs, wanting to drive it into the ocean....

Parked up , went inside.

The next morning (today), prepared myself for the same 'fun' and low and behold, it's perfect (well relatively)

Smooth acceleration, low down power, smooth power delivery when driving off the line, no smoke on low power, mid or full boost!

WTF?

And the parts have arrived for the car so it's booked in Monday (new power steering pump, o2 sensor, o rings for injectors (they are off to get checked))

????

Good that its awesome, bad that the workshop may not see the issue.

granted it's only been 1 day , so it could fail again before Monday but who knows (well I don't!)

Thoughts?

[jaychen]

possible boost leak..

mine did this on the way home from the truck depo.

next day was fine.. the day after was a pig again..

it was a tiny hose that had somehow managed to wiggle itself back on then off again.. only very slightly.

i still think you need to pressurise the system!

[weta.worker]

hiya,

can anyone point me in the direction of a good maf cleaning guide? I've done some reading and one person suggest putting it in a bag of rubbing alcohol and giving it shake etc

?

(is rubbing alcohol the same as iso propo?)

sorry for the noob questions!

thanks!

[weta.worker]

possible boost leak..

mine did this on the way home from the truck depo.

next day was fine.. the day after was a pig again..

it was a tiny hose that had somehow managed to wiggle itself back on then off again.. only very slightly.

i still think you need to pressurise the system!

thanks!

I guess this posting that was given before is a good start?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63974&highlight=boost+pressure+leak+testing

[jaychen]

Yes mate,

you can buy MAF Sensor Cleaner (the brand is CRC) in a can. I'd just use that..

[weta.worker]

Yes mate,

you can buy MAF Sensor Cleaner (the brand is CRC) in a can. I'd just use that..

thanks, so just pull it out and spray the crap out of it?

[jaychen]

yeah mate, that's what i do.

[weta.worker]

actually, reading this

http://www.crc.co.nz/Automotive-Cleaners--Degreasers-Automotive-Cleaners/p1/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Cleaner-i4e893416-ea9f-49c3-acee-0081ef6e9f4d-6782.htm

Preparation:
1. Turn off vehicle. Do not apply while equipment is energised.
2. Locate your MAF sensor between the air filter and throttle body.
3. Unplug MAF sensor wire harness.
4. Remove MAF housing.
5. Place cloth under MAF sensor to catch any run-off.
Clean the MAF Sensor:
1. With extension tube attached, apply 10-15 sprays of CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner on to hot wires or flat film element. Be sure to spray all sides of the MAF sensor and clean all wires and connectors.
2. Reassemble MAF.
3. Allow to dry thoroughly before reactivating.

[jaychen]

actually, reading this

http://www.crc.co.nz/Automotive-Cleaners--Degreasers-Automotive-Cleaners/p1/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Cleaner-i4e893416-ea9f-49c3-acee-0081ef6e9f4d-6782.htm

Preparation:
1. Turn off vehicle. Do not apply while equipment is energised.
2. Locate your MAF sensor between the air filter and throttle body.
3. Unplug MAF sensor wire harness.
4. Remove MAF housing.
5. Place cloth under MAF sensor to catch any run-off.
Clean the MAF Sensor:
1. With extension tube attached, apply 10-15 sprays of CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner on to hot wires or flat film element. Be sure to spray all sides of the MAF sensor and clean all wires and connectors.
2. Reassemble MAF.
3. Allow to dry thoroughly before reactivating.

dont see how thats any different to spraying the **** out of it?

obviously you would remove it from the car and disconnect the wiring.

common sense is required..

[weta.worker]

dont see how thats any different to spraying the **** out of it?

obviously you would remove it from the car and disconnect the wiring.

common sense is required..

i'd composed the message and in the meantime you'd posted your reply, then I posted mine so didn't see yours

simple eh...

[weta.worker]

thinking out loud here...

as the maf burns off crud when the car stops (this is correct right?), is it possible that there was crud on the MAF prior to this morning (causing me all the issues) and at the end of last nights drive it burned it off? and thats why things are peachy now?

I'm still going to check for leaks , but wondering what other scenarios are possible (probably a million eh?)

also , with the maf , whats their life expectancy? or can you just keep them clean and they should last forever? or do they eventually burn out \ die and need replacing?

cheers

john