Damaged injector insert receiver threads

[UrS4boy]

Need some suggestions:

I am installing new injector inserts with Yellow Teflon Tape and Permatex Aviation sealant and I get to the last one (no. 5) and I can't figure out why a) I can't get the plastic insert started and b) why it is ripping the teflon tape off. So I remove the insert and have a better look.

You gotta be freakin' kidding me. Whichever "professional" mechanic installed the RS2 injectors for me (6 hrs labour for complete RS2 hardware install (EM, turbo, MAF, injectors, ECU) back in 2004), obviously tried to pry the fuel rail out of the intake manifold with a flat bladed screw driver. And, in doing so, damaged the two top threads. No wonder No. 5 insert only turned 0.5 a turn before siezing solid. The threads are damaged to the point of being blind. A normal tap (I don't have that size anyway) won't work because the threads do not go all the way through. MFk'r. (I am also mad at myself for not noticing this before, bad timing now).

Suggestions welcomed. Right now I am thinking Dremel with a sanding disc. Not much room to work.

[jaychen]

Couldn't you very carefully sand out the damaged threads so you can get past them?

[LSG]

Sorry to see the damage to your thread. So depressing. You could put a time sert in it made buy wurth. You could try getting a tap to put it right. Have you said anything to the mechanic, maybe he could sort it out as it,s his mistake. Good luck with this.

[Rusty]

Looks like someone's chased the insert round with a screwdriver/chisel and hammer in the absence of the 10mm Allen...

[filip.krticka]

To be honest it's not an disaster. Correct screwing tap will sorted it out. Using new injector inserts and sealant, glue will sorted out.

[andy10v]

That sucks Dave.

Careful use of a dremel and a cutting disc should be able to remove the folded over material. It would probably still work ok with the top 3 threads removed.

You can buy bottoming taps, but I would imagine they will be expensive in that size.

[newsh]

Thread file will do it. Or the right tap. You can use a smaller tap as a scraper if you can fit it to a handle, it just needs to be the right pitch, I've done this a few times.


Here's a thread file, a very usefull bit of kit

[Error404]

I had this with a manifold. I used a tiny needle file to clear the burrs from the valleys of the threads.

[Tonks4x4]

I have also had to combat this a few times, off the top of my head I seem to remember its a 20mm tap. And as you don't need to clean all the threads to the bottom by the time the tap has bottomed out it will have cleaned the top 5 or 6 threads fully.


Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

[UrS4boy]

I have also had to combat this a few times, off the top of my head I seem to remember its a 20mm tap. And as you don't need to clean all the threads to the bottom by the time the tap has bottomed out it will have cleaned the top 5 or 6 threads fully. Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

But how do I get a tap started when its the top threads that are FUBAR'd?

[quattrostyle]

But how do I get a tap started when its the top threads that are FUBAR'd?

Just be nice and gentle and use some cutting oil.

[Tonks4x4]

Just be nice and gentle and use some cutting oil.

Just like this. If you use a starter tap instead of the finisher tap it works ok


Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

[AndyP]

But how do I get a tap started when its the top threads that are FUBAR'd?

I'd carefully file off the high spots then use a 2nd or taper tap

[driftin jo]

I get what the problem is, if you have a dremel then just grind the thread back where it's damaged, its not going to compromise the thread in any way, your only talking about a tiny portion of a turn in a couple of spots.

[UrS4boy]

I get what the problem is, if you have a dremel then just grind the thread back where it's damaged, its not going to compromise the thread in any way, your only talking about a tiny portion of a turn in a couple of spots.

Okay, I've got enough cleared up to run a plastic insert in (but it still needs a bit more work). I used a Stanley knife to cut some of the thread material away and then a tiny "dentist drill" sized bit in the Dremel to clear up a bit more of the thread (the sanding disk was too large).

The threads are 1.5 pitch so I might try to find a bottoming tap to run in there before I try the insert with the yellow teflon tape on the threads. (I am also using an aviation sealant on the nose of the insert).