Urs4 running lean . Lambda, MAF, pressurer regulator?

[prj]

I don't know if you have read this thread UrS4boy?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...r-MAF-housings

Nothing to read there, there is literally not one single file I have ever seen from any tuner where the MAF is rescaled in the software. None of them run correctly.
Because this info can be found only by disassembly and requires proper data logging to calibrate on the car, which once again, no one has, since it does not exist unless you write it (or make an interface that can use the stock mcmess system with it's 9 bit bytes and other yadda yadda).

[Isaksa]

Yesterday i have tried to use a new fuel pressure regulator. It was difficult to adjust. I set 5bar fp with vacuum of, and when i put it back on, i have like 4.3 or something. It started to run lean. So i adjusted 5bar with vacuum on = 14.7 a/f on gauge.
When boosting i am sure i could get 10bar pressure if i don't let go the throttle. This FPR have its ovn adjustment with boost.
Anyway, the FPR does not seems to be my problem. This is the one http://www.racetep.com/begireg.html

It has to be something with the MAF, even if it is new. Shouldn't a/f value respond instantly if i push the throttle? Like when i am driving uphill, it would not stay above 14? Like mine does,

[Isaksa]

uploadfromtaptalk1390860581469.jpg

2.gear 1bar boost i archieve 4.44v from maf Reading.
5v is max for the ecu?

and then I discovered something else strange.
If I roll downhill, and let go the throttle in 6 gear, and the rpm is going under 15/1600rpm then i suddenly get 12.3 A/F and is lowering compared with the speed. And the check engine light starting to light.
When i push the throttle two Maintain the speed, light dissapear ....


Hmmm, I'm not wise at this sled

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[prj]

You need correct tuning.
No, 5v is not max.

Get the car to me, or get a standalone ECU. That's pretty much it.

[Isaksa]

You need correct tuning.
No, 5v is not max.

Get the car to me, or get a standalone ECU. That's pretty much it.

Yes, i cannot see any other option. What standalone ECU can you recomend?
At a reasonable price?

[prj]

You are asking the wrong person - first find a tuner who you trust to tune your precious, and then ask that tuner which system he is most comfortable with.

For me it is no problem to tune the stock ECU in real time to almost any output the components permit, so I prefer the stock system.

MS3 is a pretty good system with bang-for-the-buck. Other alternative is VEMS, but MS3 is a much more modern and powerful architecture.
MS3 probably won't work with the auditrigger though.

[Isaksa]

You are asking the wrong person - first find a tuner who you trust to tune your precious, and then ask that tuner which system he is most comfortable with.

For me it is no problem to tune the stock ECU in real time to almost any output the components permit, so I prefer the stock system.

MS3 is a pretty good system with bang-for-the-buck. Other alternative is VEMS, but MS3 is a much more modern and powerful architecture.
MS3 probably won't work with the auditrigger though.

Hi Prj!

My setup has been working before, and If you had not stayed so far away, i would had let you fix my car. Now i just bought a really expencive replacement Rs2 MAF. The motronic is tuned for the 4" maf. That is why i want to avoid use more mony on standalone ECU for now. I have a lot to be done in the house also

I understand that the MAF is the main component that the ECU uses under wot, with preset values in ecu.
But what about engine temperature, air temperature. There is a 70c thermostat in my car( i do not know why ) That can't bee any problem with my car running lean?

What about, knock sensors fail? Those wil retard the timing?

[Ugemi]

Knock sensors will give a fault code and your boost drops to basic spring boost(at least in AAN engine).

[UrS4boy]

...But what about engine temperature, air temperature. There is a 70C thermostat in my car( i do not know why ) That can't bee any problem with my car running lean?

That is the wrong thermostat. It should be an 87C. Don't understand why anyone would run such a cold thermostat. Not good for engine efficiency.

More thermostat info here: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21881.phtml

[Isaksa]

Don't understand why anyone would run such a cold thermostat.

I Agree!

Will order a new one ASAP

[UrS4boy]

I Agree! Will order a new one ASAP

A set of replacement hints is contained in my Thermostat link above (also accessed by clicking on the label in this live diagram:

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%...ice%20Map.html )

[prj]

Hi Prj!

My setup has been working before, and If you had not stayed so far away, i would had let you fix my car. Now i just bought a really expencive replacement Rs2 MAF. The motronic is tuned for the 4" maf. That is why i want to avoid use more mony on standalone ECU for now. I have a lot to be done in the house also

I understand that the MAF is the main component that the ECU uses under wot, with preset values in ecu.
But what about engine temperature, air temperature. There is a 70c thermostat in my car( i do not know why ) That can't bee any problem with my car running lean?

What about, knock sensors fail? Those wil retard the timing?

Fuel = MAFLIN(MAF)/RPM*Enrichment in this ECU.
It will never ever run that lean because of IAT or Coolant sensor issues.

Measure your fuel pressure on WOT, maybe it is dropping.
Correct solution is to use RS4 MAF or Mafless setup instead of screwing up the stock maf.

[Isaksa]

Fuel = MAFLIN(MAF)/RPM*Enrichment in this ECU.
It will never ever run that lean because of IAT or Coolant sensor issues.

Measure your fuel pressure on WOT, maybe it is dropping.
Correct solution is to use RS4 MAF or Mafless setup instead of screwing up the stock maf.

I was testing a BEGI fpr.. Im sure i could get 10 bar if i havent let go the throttle (mounted a hose, and a gauge to the wiper system so i could see what's going on) . So i mounted back my turbosmart.

If i am switching to a stock rs2 maf in original housing, i am running rich (11-12a/f) in slow driving uphill ect .And CEL appears until i let go the throttle.

RS4 maf, you may be in to something. But if i am gonna upgrade, it has to be a standalone ECU, and will never see a MAF again.
What about G4 signal? (rpm) This has a magnet on the tip? havent checked that, but this is working, or not working as i understand. (not working = no engine start)

[UrS4boy]

I was testing a BEGI fpr.. Im sure i could get 10 bar if i havent let go the throttle (mounted a hose, and a gauge to the wiper system so i could see what's going on)

Even with a 044 Bosch Motorsport fuel pump you'd be very unlikely to get 10 Bar at any kind of decent flow rate. A typical RS2'd UrS4 AAN with 4 Bar Fuel pressure regulator will only need about 6 Bar at the fuel rail at maximum boost, e.g. 29 psig (2 Bar), which an 044 is perfectly capable of providing with adequate flow.

[Isaksa]

Even with a 044 Bosch Motorsport fuel pump you'd be very unlikely to get 10 Bar at any kind of decent flow rate.

That was some interesting reading! What have i been measuring then ?
I mounted my gauge on the hose from fuelrail to inlet on FPR..
On the "outlet" side on this blue thing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/131utfbkzp8mha7/2014-01-29%2021.25.06.jpg

Maybe defektive gauge

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ul7b3qcvybi4do4/2014-01-29%2011.25.00.jpg