RS2- Just had a dyno run...power down (any thoughts?)

[UrS4boy]

now with a very non eventful video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01LRhhb25bk

Sorry, I expected little hobbitses and Golum and such. WTF?

[weta.worker]

Sorry, I expected little hobbitses and Golum and such. WTF?

I told you it was uneventful!

[simon20vq]

After boost leak test check N75 is connected the right way around. Oh and lovely looking in red

[Rusty]

As above, you need to get a correct boost leak test done, using the inlet and breather system bung and about 2 Bar of pressure. Anything less than 1 Bar isn't worth the effort to get it all air-tight. PRJ may not sugar coat things but his advice is still very sound.

VAG Com codes?

What does VAG Com say that the altitude is? This can be an issue, if the altitude sensor has gone T/U. (this is located in the passenger side foot well on RHD cars).

RS2 stock map runs to about 1.5 Bar, so your boost pressure down.

Personally, I don't let rolling roads touch my vacuum hoses, as the machines usually cause a small leak that causes issues. If I want boost pressure, I use a gauge in the car that is fitted when the car is pressure tested. If installed correctly, this also shows what the ECU is seeing, rather than the manifold pressure.

When it's all sorted, get a proper map on there, it's lots more fun

HTH

[europeanme]

you would notice a boost leak out on the road with the over-boost protection....as soon as you make "proper" boost it would feel like your having your faced smashed against the windscreen!!!....

have you got a boost gauge fitted?

[hotibi]

Hello! We have similar boost leak problem, diverter valve teared and replaced, and the rubber hose before the throttle valve teared also and replaced, the boost is getting better, but we have a little leak somewhere yet. The next step will be the pressure test. I read prj message: "All you need is a simple plug for the MAF-> Turbo hose, disconnect the breather, put 1 bar in and make sure it does not drop to zero for 30 seconds." I understood the simple plug for the MAF but if we disconnect the breather and put in the pressure then the pressure slowly decrease next to the piston ring. Or am I wrong? If we plugged the MAF and the crankcase breather assembly also, and put the pressure to the breather system then the pressure remains? Is this a wrong idea? Or if the pressure came through the piston ring very quickly that tells bad news for the piston ring conditions thanks the reply.

[weta.worker]

you would notice a boost leak out on the road with the over-boost protection....as soon as you make "proper" boost it would feel like your having your faced smashed against the windscreen!!!....

have you got a boost gauge fitted?

no gauge fitted. it's all stock standard. 2 different workshops have fitted gauges and the first said it was fine at 16psi (which I replied it's meant to be 21) , then they 'made some adjustments' and said it's at 21. The new workshop I'm taking it to said it's running 21 as well.

Will get them to triple check a few things as everyone is saying a leak is there. It just needs to be found.

[martinjs]

you would notice a boost leak out on the road with the over-boost protection....as soon as you make "proper" boost it would feel like your having your faced smashed against the windscreen!!!....

Not necessarily, the pipe from the i/c split on my UrS4 once, you could hear the leak whilst driving the car, yet over-boost protection didnt kick in.

[RS2fan]

What kind of octane number did you do the run on. All european RS2 has to run on octane 98 to get the right amount of horse power out of it. I did a dyno run once when I only had octane 95 in the tank, and i only showed 297 bhp, then a year later I did a run on octane 99, the highest octane number you can buy in Denmark at the moment, and the showed 318 bhp on the dyno.

Another thing could be that your turbo on the car, ain't a RS2 turbo but a S2 / Audi 200 turbo, which means, that it only can produce about 270 bhp, with the RS2 ECU. One of the guys in the Audiclub Denmark bought a RS2 from Sweden, and at the dyno run it only showed 278 bhp. He later found out that the previos owner in sweden, ad one time had changed the turbo to a smaller from a S2 / audi 200, because the original was broken. Might be the same thing with yours.

[RS2fan]

A Audi 200 turbo is named K24/7000, and a Audi RS2 turbo is named K24/7200

the turbo in the middle of the picture is a K24/7200, and the one on the right is a K24/7000, just to show the difference.

[UrS4boy]

A Audi 200 turbo is named K24/7000, and a Audi RS2 turbo is named K24/7200

The K24-7000 was used on the 3B, the AAN and the ABY. Here is a link to more info on these two turbos, including this photo:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61552&highlight=K24-7000

[weta.worker]

thanks - i'll see if I can take a look

also, running 98

thanks again!

[weta.worker]

rokay, looking at this



and reading this part " You can also see that thicker, raised portion of the scroll, where the bolts connect the scroll to the backing plate is wider on the K24-7000 on the right and narrower on the RS2 K24-7200 on the left. In fact, that is a good way to tell, at a glance, whether the KKK K24 turbo is an RS2 7200 turbo or the OE 3B, AAN or ABY K24-7000."

It looks as if I've got a RS2 turbo but can't be certain as I don't have the measurements for the raised portion?

Anyone else have the measurement for a S2 or RS2 turbo raised portion?

[weta.worker]

actually, it must be a rs2 turbo as I've just noticed the bolt head mould goes past the raised part in the RS2 turbo and within the raised part in the S2.

well , maybe not 'must be' , but highly probable...

it's possible that someone before me swapped it out with something completely different but had the same raised to bolt head ratio

[RS2fan]

What does it say on the name plate on turbo??